-
Posts
9921 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
72
Joe X last won the day on April 16
Joe X had the most liked content!
About Joe X
Profile Information
-
Gender
Male
Recent Profile Visitors
The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.
Joe X's Achievements
-
speaker popping caused by RCA?? HELPP
Joe X replied to R3nOSlaPP's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
It could be bad RCA terminals (either end) or the amp itself, very possible if you installed the amp in the sub box. You need also to check your power lines and your turn on signal as well. And also the sub to amp lines at both ends, it could be even the sub. Test everything and see what you find. -
1) Yes you have to account for the displacement of 45s but in most cases this displacement is very low. 2) If you add damping to the interior of a ported box it results in a reduction of output around tuning, it also can reduce port noise in a misdesigned enclosure, it is beneficial for flatness but it will reduce output and therefore usually is not used. I will look into the modeling of the P3s however it would be necessary for me to know what amp are you using.
-
The best way to get flat response is what you did, run an array of high diameter subs in sealed if you don't mind the larger box. To me two standard 12s in a large vehicle cabin is insufficient but if you have to work with them then the box is the way to get them going lower by tuning low with proper port area and going with the maximum allowable internal volume. Once the box has the ability to play low you can use a DSP to try to even things out if needed, and hopefully you will like the outcome.
-
Depends on what 18 and the maximum dimensions of the trunk. (h,w,d) 89
-
You can use a 1500W RMS amp no worries, just no clipping, subsonic set to 28Hz, careful with bass boost and other tone controls after setting gains.
-
So here is a suggestion, power: to sub(s) rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 3 1/2", figure is just an assembly guide: NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit before building the real box. NOTE: Box can still be used with better subs for a future upgrade.
-
I would definitely look into seat lift kits to fit a box of proper size for those subs, make that enclosure with 3/4" birch wood, dual layer for the baffle, proper bracing inside, specs are 4 cubic feet net 64 square inches of port area tuned to 32Hz, I believe the sub cutouts need to be 7.34". Depending on how much space you find to work with I could fine tune that spec to increase output and low end extension as possible.
-
So here is a suggestion, power: to subs rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 3 3/4", figure is just an assembly guide:
-
That box is designed for SA-8s as a result the X subs are going to find themselves in a too small box with low port area and tuned too high, surely above the 36Hz specified as driver displacement for X subs is larger, maybe it will get to 38Hz or more and could experience some port noise. Used to a large box tuned very low you will definitely notice a loss in bottom octave bass. Regarding to your question, you can always strengthen the box but if it is made of cheap thin 5/8" wood then it is not impossible. Lastly the pre cut sub holes cannot fit X subs, you will have to work on the holes. Overall that box seem expensive and not adequate for the subs. I would lift up the seats and do a proper custom enclosure for those subs and even then you probably have better bottom octave bass right now than you will ever get with some 8s.
-
Brand new Alpine R2-W12D2 makes flapping sounds
Joe X replied to Ejner's topic in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Should be fairly easy to determine what's at fault just swap parts, you have another amp, test with that, use another sub and test, check your gains, do it fast so that you can send the product back for warranty if necessary. -
RFP are HE2 not HX2, driver displacement are not the same.
-
Voltage drop
Joe X replied to BigBoss_35's topic in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Most important is to check the model of your alternator to make sure is actually 120A, if not what I am saying is not valid, secondly you should get an AGM battery of decent capacity, probably that should be enough to reduce the dimming, a big 3 upgrade is recommended, take a look at the link below to read some more on the topic: https://learn.sonicelectronix.com/5-steps-to-eliminate-headlight-dimming/ The other way to to help your electrical system is by using higher diameter subs which are much louder for the watt, a single 10 sub in a big vehicle will make you up the volume level a lot to get decent output, a 12 sub can gain you 2-3 dB just by merit of size, A 3dB difference means you can be as loud with a 12" on half the power that a 10" sub need. -
Voltage drop
Joe X replied to BigBoss_35's topic in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Your vehicle is supposed to have a 120A alternator, if that's the case your electrical should be able to hold at 13.2V so as long as you only play with your car on you are good to go, to reduce the dimming substantially you could upgrade your battery and add a capacitor at your amp terminals. -
Voltage drop
Joe X replied to BigBoss_35's topic in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
13.2 V is nothing to worry about but if you are stressing a lot your electrical things may get worse over time so you may want to list what subs and amp models you have and what is the vehicle. That should be enough info to tell you if you are likely to have problems going forward or not.