Joe X

Yes it says 0.9cuft@32Hz for a ported box, a 4th order improperly designed or built can be a disaster. If you need lows just skip the sealed, the manual states exactly how to build the ported.

I'm sorry but please don't give out false information. With the last 2 posts I can tell you shouldn't be giving this guy advice. You just gave him dimensions for a slot ported box when he asked for a t-line. Then you told him your box would be louder. How do you know it will be louder? Do you have the exact same vehicle, power, sub, electrical, and have tried a t-line compared to that box? Then you tell him he'll be doing mid 20's on the termlab? Really dude? I just threw in something easy to build..just in case... if the OP decides to dismiss the suggestion that's fine with me. You quoted my post but I GUESS you missed this: "as predicted by modelling software, real world results are a different thing"

What is the exact model of the sub??

A coarse estimate for an average cabin sized car would be in the lower 120s around tuning frequency and at rated power (600W RMS) as predicted by modelling software, real world results are a different thing..

Check this out: http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=CAT&srchCat=143 Sound with flanged aeros will be cleaner than slots by a good margin.

Ok so there is a box wood displacement to consider here, from your external dims you need to substract 1.5 inches to each dimension, that will be your gross internal volume, the port and sub displacements are deducted from there. Also to read this to know that I was talking about in my previous post: http://www.jlaudio.com/header/Support/Tutorials/Enclosure+Ports/Tutorial%3A+Enclosure+Ports/656168 Hope this clears everything out.

Ok I just need have clear a few things: 1) The mounting depth of the sub is 11.125" so not sure if it fits with the port below. 2) Not sure (I guess) the box dimensions you are giving are internal?? 3) if the port is using the bottom of the box as a lower wall as the sketchup seems to suggest, your port displacement is miscalculated and the port tuning is also off because end correction for slot ports applies. 4) Also the length of the port should be calculated on the centerline of the port not sure if you did it that way. To note, I have not made any calculations, these are just a few things I am not clear about.

Here is a design suggestion for a single SA-12 tuned a bit higher, it will still hit low and be a bit louder than the 30Hz setting: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 32 Hz Vb = 1,75 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Front Mounted External Height = 15 in External Width = 33,65 in External Depth = 12 in Port Width = 2 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 30 7/8 x 13 1/2 Back = 33 5/8 x 13 1/2 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 11 1/4 x 13 1/2 Side 2 = 10 1/2 x 13 1/2 Top & Bottom = 33 5/8 x 12 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 8 1/2 x 13 1/2 Extension = 24 5/16 x 13 1/2 Here is how it assembles:

I will double check your calculations to see if something is off.

So where you will be installing the sub, also I imagine you will be placing a top lid.. right?

Ok since you have no particular requirements, just check if you like the external dimensions and if you do just cut the pieces as in the cut list provided, let me know if you need an assembly diagram. Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 35 Hz Vb = 2,5 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Front Mounted External Height = 15 in External Width = 31,32 in External Depth = 16 in Port Width = 3 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 27 9/16 x 13 1/2 Back = 31 5/16 x 13 1/2 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 15 1/4 x 13 1/2 Side 2 = 14 1/2 x 13 1/2 Top & Bottom = 31 5/16 x 16 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 11 1/2 x 13 1/2 Extension = 12 7/8 x 13 1/2

If the ported with 15"s turned out bad you can still make some MDF rings and mount 12"s in it.

The net internal volume seems short for dual 15"s and the displacement for the subs seem high. It could sound somewhat tight and need more power to get loud.

Specs are in the manual, the biggest one is 3.5 cubic feet net: www.razorgtp.com/PDFS/solo-baric.pdf Get the maximun external dims of the box you can fit and I can provide a design suggestion.

To tune check this out: http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 The the subs displacement and port displacement needs to be taken into account to have a valid net internal volume they ask for.

You mean to get louder making a 2 ohm load? It won't get louder because the extra power you would be getting from the amp would turn into heat in the resistor not into sound. Besides who knows what resistor would handle that much power.

Ported give much better low end bass than sealed, are easy to build and can sound clean, bandpass is not clean bass, are good for efficiency only.

If using 4" aeros consider this, port ends up: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 33,2 Hz Vb = 7,001 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Flush Mounted External Height = 24 in External Width = 48 in External Depth = 15 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 48 x 24 Left & Right Sides = 12 3/4 x 22 1/2 Top & Bottom = 48 x 12 3/4 Port Quantity and Dimensions: Number of Ports = 5 Aero Port Diameter = 4 Aero Port Length = 19 A double layer baffle is used which helps, additional bracing may be required.

I don't think a single 600W sub will be enough for a SUV that's the main porblem, you should be building a box for two at least. I think that best results are achieved with ports and subs in the same surface but yes some people claim a SPL boost with up-back configuration.. all vehicles are different so you need to experiment yourself.. If you want to try the up-back configuration you need to get familiar with the Torres since the software I use don't support that.

It's best having the port in the same surface as the subs, you can try aiming the firing up, back and front to see how do you like it better. In separate chamber trunks usually front firing is best, also you should let the port have some breathing room in front of it, best two times it's width.

I don't think you need any bracing on a single 600W sub, at least the way it installs in that box, if you add asecond baffle layer behind the external one arguably you would have less flex, tuning would go upwards a bit.

Wish you luck, check some infos on how to build and keep air tight. @jeremyg: damn fast with Sketchup!!

I would do the double baffle for sure, that's the surface that flexes the most, rods on that power maybe is too much on the safe side.. whatever you do take the displacements into account.

I have seen that problem on the HDC3 but this sub will work very well on 4cuft@33Hz, take a look:

This could work: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 33,031 Hz Vb = 4,081 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Front Mounted External Height = 17 in External Width = 34 in External Depth = 20 in Port Width = 4 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front & Back = 34 x 17 Left & Right Sides = 18 1/2 x 15 1/2 Top & Bottom = 34 x 18 1/2 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 14 1/2 x 15 1/2 Extension = 9 x 15 1/2