Joe X
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Posts posted by Joe X
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The Juggernaut 15D2 which I was looking at is basically 20mm Xmax which is ok for a medium power subwoofer so no problems there.
How you aim your sub and port depends on the vehicle, aiming up in trucks can cause the windows and roof to flex and cause rattling in some cases but not always, one must run a few tests before deciding what is best.
Also bear in mind that when running more than 1000 watts rms you generally need electrical upgrades which need to be added to your total system cost.
Since you have two trucks I would recommend making a plan for each and decide which you will do first, take measurements for a sub box and total costs and then go from there.
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The Juggernaut is 19.8mm Xmax, so take care where you get parameters from, the manufacturers recommended box internal volume is best but if you need lower volume like 4 cubic feet you should be fine, you can use the model you entered and lower the volume to see the effects.
Other than that there are many subs out there if you are not set on that brand, from the parameters looks like the juggernaut is higher efficiency with higher cone area and lower MMS, which means it will get louder for the watt, to that end the larger box will help.
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You can use marine grade plywood and use phenolic glue to build the box.
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kydream did you use 4" round ports? Nice box BTW.
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You have ample port area which is extremely important, tighter volume is good for fast bass and musicality which some people prefer over maximum output, still I was ready to draw the 10 cubes box but you didn't ask, as before you can reverse mount the subs to seek that extra output if you decided to test that, pics or whatever you want to share are welcome specially to inspire others.
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9 hours ago, sonya11 said:
Hey folks, I’m dealing with a bit of an issue and could use your input.
The door speakers in my car have been acting weird lately—sometimes the sound gets all crackly, and other times there's no sound at all.While searching for a quick fix online, I came across this tool called Fix My Speaker.It’s supposed to play high-frequency sound to push out water from phone speakers if they’ve gotten wet.
That got me thinking could this actually work for car door speakers too?
Has anyone here tried it on a car audio system or seen it work outside of phones?Would really appreciate it if you could share your experience or advice.
Drop a reply if you’ve given it a shot or know someone who has. Thanks in advance.Are you saying you exposed your speakers to water?
If both left and right speakers turn silent when that happens most likely your car stereo has become faulty or have loose power terminals, if it happens to the left or right speaker only it may be an issue with the speakers or you may have wiring issues.
Happily these days can be very inexpensive to replace car audio parts if needed.
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OP you cannot ruin an amp by using it at it's rated impedance UNLESS you don't have proper electrical upgrades, if your input voltage drops below 12V as you play loudly THEN an amp may overheat and get damaged.
Make sure you have the electrical upgrades for the power you are running and you will be safe.
Also quit many upgrade cycles as you will end up spending much more than needed, decide what power you will be running and buy electrical and subs to match, you know, if it ends up getting too loud you can always turn it down.
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Looking at the model the sub will not get damaged in an 8 cubes box on rated power but the larger box will play less flat and you will lose some sound quality and the box will get heavier.
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On 6/22/2025 at 12:17 PM, MDdrolman said:
Hello,
Toyota Camry SE, Two sets of dimensions. One is with enclosure pushed as far toward back seat as possible, the other is with enclosure pushed closer to trunk latch which gives me width.
MAX dimensions 44" width(left to right facing trunk, 18 height, 24 depth
38" width, 18 height, 31 depth
I have been designing an enclosure with subbox pro and WINISD.
I have 2 FI xv4 12s.
I would like around 4.5 cubes net tuned to 32 hertz.
When designing it, the only way to get a port velocity below 22(forgot the units) is by having a 7" wide slot port which gives me 95"2 of port.
can anyone help me out with my design please. I may be completely overlooking something. I am open to suggestions on any aspect of the build.
ALSO:
I have an enclosure for 2 12s. They were JL w3v3 12s. I built the enclosure exactly as the JL tech designed it for me. It is 3.5 cubes net tuned to 32 hertz. My main concern with using those is it is at the minimum size requirement per FI which is 1.8-2.5 cube per sub. My next concern is port area which is 2" wide, 12.5 tall, and 13.5 deep(into sub enclosure). I feel like such a small port area wont be adequate port velocity wise. Do you think its worth even putting them in my current enclosure, or just building one a little more suited to these subs.
Thank you for any help.
Look to build a 4.5 cubic feet net enclosure with 60 square inches of port area tuned to 32Hz.
Pretty big enclosure make sure it fits before building.
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There is also this, cheaper and multiple units:
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-159041-Cerwin-Vega-CFMANL125.html
It is from a known brand so it should be at least what it claims to be, the 125A rating will work as a 120A fuse replacement no problem.
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All_Ears_On_Me, that was fast.
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Here is a high quality fuse available in 120A:
https://www.knukonceptz.com/product/nickel-silver-plated-150-200-250-300-amp-anl-fuse/
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For daily use 3.5 net with 50 square inches of port area, tuning 32-35 Hz, dual 0.75 layer baffle, strong cross bracing or window bracing.
BTW Sd is 540 cm² (not what they list)
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Post this in the amps section.
With that amp you will not notice any difference and with sound quality amplifiers higher impedance may slightly be better but nothing dramatic.
Usually a bad sub enclosure design, poor electrical or poor gains settings or crossover settings will be far more damaging for your sound quality than wiring impedance.
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Imagine if that was the actual frequency response, you would only be able to hear like 40-48Hz and little to nothing above and below that.
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Take a look at the following, most of your questions should be answered:
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Box for those vehicles is usually a slanted box subs forward port sideways but for a particular truck is a matter of experimentation to see what works best.
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It's all there in the sundown site:
Ported Enclosure 1.5 cu.ft. net
Recommended Tuning 32Hz
Recommended Port Area 22 sq.in.
Displacement .23 cu. ft.
Depth 10.96"
Outside Diameter 11.65"
Cut-Out 10.01"You need a double layer baffle and heavy bracing for this one.
Honestly I don't know why people are picking up such small subs, the 12" version box size is almost as big but a 12" sub can have 40% more cone area which makes it so much louder for the same power applied.
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I have already entered the model for that sub in bass box pro ( same as winISD but pro grade and made for car audio use) and everything checks out, when the manufacturer gives you box specs you can be sure you are OK at least to the RMS of the sub, also, use torres to determine the box dimensions, and ignore WinISD which is made for non slotted ports like pipe ports. WinISD will let you know about sub excursion, frequency response and everything else that you know.
If necessary I could show you my plots but at this point you should make sure that what you are building corresponds to the Torres you have made.
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8 hours ago, missionman said:
Im testing the high pass filter right now and sure enough 30hz is actually ALL THE WAY THE OPPOSITE WAY (clockwise 90 degrees) and all the highs are where 30Hz is supposed to be. WHAT THE HELL. What wouldve caused this. the dial cant be installed wrong so what would make it reverse?
By the way when I got this amp from South America brand new i took it out the box and several knobs were bent. I had to massage them somewhat straight again.
It is more likely that the filter is out of range than reversed, say it tops at 35 Hz instead of 90Hz, that it should so to set to 30 Hz you need to go close to max of the range to get the 30 Hz, that is a common issue with taramps amps, very well documented and a high number of units will show this problem, that is for using cheap components with loose tolerance or maybe they used the wrong component value out of not having the right one at hand at the time of assembly. To keep cost down I am sure they have very basic quality control that only includes a turn on test and playing a tone to give the unit the green light.
You could have a technician to test and fix the tone controls but if you have the money get a better amp before a more serious fault shows up.
Glad to see your progress and that you did not need to spend a lot for a new sub/box.
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Set your gains with a DD-1 or a scope, make sure you do an excellent job.
Then set your hi pass filter to 30Hz (or a little more) on the amp, any bass boost should be set to zero. Also the head unit and equalizers or whatever you have, all tone controls set to zero, loudness to zero and any other effects to defeat, make sure you do not forget anything.
That should get it under control, if you still don't like the sound after the fixes just sell everything, that kind of products are not made for sound quality.
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The first thing to bear in mind is that the linkwitz transform filter will fix your gain plot (for measurements inside a car) but it will make other curves plot incorrectly so for example your vent airspeed plot is showing an erroneously high airspeed, disable the filter for viewing that plot. For a slot port your vent airspeed should stay below 30 m/s.
The port length that TORRES shows is correct, as WinISD is incompatible with slot ports.
The 27 square inches of port area are not needed, 22 should be fine to avoid making your box larger than it needs to be.
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Let us know how it went, you should gain about 3dB for doubling power, see if that is loud enough for you.
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If you are going for a under rear seats enclosure (best solution) those are impractical to build, I would go for a pre made box that fits your particular truck and the subs specs as best as possible. Also a back seat lift kit my be necessary.
MMATS Jugg & Monster Questions.
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
Those subs are generally considered daily subs with average sound quality but I couldn't answer which are better since it's a brand that is not used on here and personally I have not used them.
What is used on here are mainly Sundown audio subs and for a cheap alternative skar audio subs. for bass amps the great majority of people use taramps Brazilian amps which quite frankly I would never own not even for free.