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Joe X
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Posts posted by Joe X
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The Damplifier stuff should be definitely be above average quality:
https://wccaraudio.com/second-skin-audio/?page=1
So you could add it to your research list.
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To tell you the truth a single 8 firing up like you show, hardly would cause rattling in a larger vehicle, maybe do a test before deciding where to install deadening if necessary at all.
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The SDR 12s will work in 4th order bandpass. EBP <70
Suggested box specs for two drivers:
Sealed chamber 2.2 net
Ported chamber 3.8 net @45Hz Port area 72 square inches.
Power to: 1200W RMS.
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So here is a second suggestion, power: to sub rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 9 cm, figure is just an assembly guide:
NOTE: Tuning down to 34Hz and F3 of 26Hz, will be adequate for low tuned, music, net volume up to 4 cubic feet.
NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit in it's way inside.
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On 1/23/2023 at 4:09 PM, brazilanlittlebass said:
@Joe X So, in reality, I like rebassed-style music, with this frequency that I chose between 38 and 40 hz, will it not be possible to play music at approximately 30 hz, play it loud? because I believe that this speaker will not last a long time playing at 25hz. I wanted something like rap but with sound pressure, or is this system I have not ideal for doing it? I redid the measurements in my car and managed to reach the following measurements: Length 88 cm, height 47 cm and width 45 cm, this is the maximum, even putting the back seat forward because of the battery. Do you think it's possible to play low and strong with this setup? I appreciate it if you can give me the links on the content, thanks a lot buddy
I take note of your new maximum dimensions but I would like to know brand and model of your sub, amp, head unit, other components you may have like equalizer, DSP or any other device you may have.
Also how is your electrical spec, battery, alternator, wiring, etc.
Also check this video on what is cliipping and why you need to avoid it, it's meant to be short and simple, I will post other links later:
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On 1/22/2023 at 3:41 PM, Matash1 said:
What do you guys think of me changing out my 4 skars to 2 meso 8s in my crew Silverado. Is it an upgrade or should I leave it alone. It’s powered by a JP95 amp.
One thing you should say is what box specs you are running, net volume if you run sealed, net volume port area and tuning if using ported.
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The DS18 parameters are non matching (very much like with many skar subs) so it is not really possible to answer the question.
What it seems more clear is that the couple of SQLs will sound cleaner and need a smaller box to work right. Just look at the high inductance on the DS18 params.
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Not sure what you mean by 7 inches but lets see, a round port 7 inches in diameter would have a port area of 39 square inches, a 7x7 square port would have a port area of 49 square inches, the manufacturer would want 128 square inches (like 18.2" x 7" port area) with an 8 cubic feet box for those two subs so right there you have brutal output loss.
Sealing off is making your trunk FULLY airtight from the cabin, stopping air from flowing into your trunk and back effectively reduces you your cabin volume lifting up significantly your low frequencies. A proper seal off is a lot of work to get right.
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You can do a number of thing before considering a wall, first is checking your box specs, do you know what is your port area and tuning?
Already can see you are not sealed off, you can gain output doing so.
You can gain output by using subs that work in smaller net volume. SoundQuberd usually need larger net volume to work well.
You can run more powerful subs and amps to considerably increasing your output.
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Box wise you do a larger internal volume to get more output with less power, in your case going to 4 cubic feet net should be doable but I already made the box as big as your available space allows. Tuning should be as low as the music you play needs but not lower, I think if you generally do not play low tuned music like rap you are better off with the higher tuning you chose.
To avoid damage to your sub you should be aware of clipping, specially with modern full bridge amplifiers which if not used properly can clip very easily. Clipping is one sure way to destroy a sub. If you are not familiar with this let me know let me know and I will post you some links so that you know how to avoid it.
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You can connect phones, players, etc to the amp not only head units to see if you get the same hiss levels. Just need a cheap cable adapter to do so. BTW what amp is it?
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NOTE: it is very hard to just by looking at some parameters of two well matched subs to tell which is going to do better, there are many factors in play and so you need to go through the whole modeling process to realize the finer details.
Two of those Messo 12 on 3K are about as loud as one EXO 12, so if you are planning to do 1 EXO 12 DON'T do it you will gain nothing dB wise, it would only make sense if you want a smaller box and around same output.
Between the EXO 12 and the Z v5 12 what stands out is the much higher Xmax of the Z (35mm vs 20mm), otherwise they are very similar, So if you are looking for louder and cleaner deep bass the Z is superior to the EXO.
The other thing about the EXO (assuming you want a single one) is that is a D1 so your wiring options are 0,5 or 2 ohm, you need to make sure your amp will deliver the 3000 or so watts at the available impedance options.
If you want to look at some plots or have any other questions, let me know.
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Just saying, you will have to run your subs firing up right against the trunk lid and one should look to avoid having that as it potentially kills output and forces you to use more deadening.
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Here are the plots for the above box for the D4 version of the sub:
Projected in-car frequency response:
Cone displacement:
Vent airspeed:
Should sound pretty good but since you asked for higher tuning your -3db half power frequency is about 31 Hz, so not too great for low tuned stuff like rap.
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If you plan for a trunk sub enclosure ported, it's not going to be possible to properly fit four 12s, better to know before you try it.
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So here is a suggestion, power: to sub rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 9 cm, figure is just an assembly guide:
NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit in it's way inside.
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You want someone to actually build the box? If so get someone local as it is not worth to pay shipping cost, more so if it is a large box.
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12.2 > 10 so you are far enough from the back wall for it to work properly. You can just build it like that.
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Take a look at the Image Dynamics IDMAX10, works perfectly on sealed box type, SQ oriented, high power handling, should be close to your target price.
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Surely it was a hairline crack due to shipping that end up splitting the magnet but the next time record low temperatures hit I would abstain myself of even playing the sub at all before heating, you know, just in case.
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It feels surrealistic to read that you want dual alternators and 4800 Watt RMS worth of amplifiers to drive four 300 watt subwoofers.
Am I missing something?
If those subs were Sundown X v3 then it would barely make sense.
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Some daily subs on a vehicle that is not so easy to get loud is not the way I would look to win a SPL competition if you are up to that, the other thing that is troubling is that you don't have any spl meter which is a must with this kind of projects.
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You don't usually remove your backseat rather do a custom rear deck, like this:
With the airspace open you can now use a ported box and it will work just fine.
As far as the box go DD Audio suggested boxes will be loudest with their subs, they are tuned pretty high though, one can tune down a design to get deeper lows at the cost of some overall loudness, more so with DD subs, when you are wanting deep lows is better to pick Sundown X, most SSA subs, to name a couple.
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To use ported, ideally you need to open up your rear deck to let sound waves freely cross into your cabin.
If you just want to use ski hole you will need to build a 4th order bandpass box, the 6x10 opening is enough port area for it, the thing is that the loudest output generally occurs at tuning which is at 40-50Hz while ported gets to be loudest at a frequency of your choosing which can be as low as you want it to be, 4th order bandpass don't work that way unfortunately.
Can HU be source of speaker hiss?
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
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Yes, hopefully you can still return that jensen, a pioneer head unit, even the bottom of the line one will not have this problem.