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Joe X

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Posts posted by Joe X

  1. 5 hours ago, jgi420 said:

    So if I were to go with a skar audio rp1500 I should get a lot more power than I'm receiving now?

     

    Crazy how a company could charge $200 for bogus power at least give the consumer 700w rms It's like I'm not even getting that.

     

    I guess I suppose I mean on the website of the company they don't even list a fuse size or mention RMS power. So you could kind of assume 1500 watt is peak power but it's like they don't even give you half that clearly says on the website 1500w RMS at one ohm 750 watt RMS at 2 ohm crazy inflation

     

    It is recommended that you use an amplifier that provides RMS power at least the same RMS power of all your subs, in your case 2500W , if you like skar I would go at least for the RP 2000  and light electrical upgrades for your car. the RP2000 is a tried and true amp and at 220 is pretty cheap. generally speaking I would recommend Korean half bridge amps which can work fine on minimal electrical upgrades.

  2. The Skar Audio RP 1500.1D 1500W RMS amp which has been tested to do rated power requires a 120A fuse.

     

    So your amp simply does not do rated power at all just looking at the fuse it uses.

     

    And the fact that your 60A fuse in the power line never blows just gives you an idea how little power you are actually running

     

    looking at the math  Power = 120A x 13V  =  1560W or just above the power rating.

     

    For 60A fuse:            Power = 60A  x 13V   =  780W which never blows so you not even that (you don't even need electrical upgrades at this power).

     

    Factoring in amplifier efficiency at 60A you would be delivering about 300W to each driver but again not even that.

     

    I am going to guess you are actually delivering 200W to each 1250W driver or barely moving.

     

    If you are comfortable at that level you could just leave it like that but what needs to be done to get those subs moving is a new amp and an electrical to match, a cheap amp that does 2500W RMS is the D4S JP23 1.5 which is 299 and is ideal for systems with light electrical upgrades.

     

     

     

     

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  3. 13 hours ago, Kique said:

    I'm trying to add a 10" sub to my stock stereo. I found an Alpine S2 (600w rms @ 2ohm) it's pretty shallow and only needs around a half a cubic foot sealed box. Now I need a compact amp to push it. I came across the Cerwin Vega XED6001D (600w rms @ 2ohm) it looks like a good fit and it's tiny but I just don't know about it's quality. It's also under $120 online which also worries me.  I'm not looking for competition quality gear but I don't want something crappy that will die on me in a year.  Anyone know anything about the CV XED amps or of another tiny amp that'll work for a 10? Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.

     

     

    There are many mini amps, the Rockford Fosgate amp for sure is high quality and does above rated power but there are many others, check them out:

     

    https://www.sonicelectronix.com/ci1743-mini-amps.html

  4. As long as you have used glue rather abundantly and left the box alone enough time for the glue to dry completely you should be fine, the parts come already cut so caulk or other stuff to patch up holes should not be necessary.

     

    EVLs motor is not that powerful or the subs need that much port area so I say that even if the box is prefab it should do fine, 4 cubic feet net and about 50 square inches of port area should be enough.

     

    You should leave the 6x8 speaker slots in the rear deck open and open a big hole in the center and hope for the best.

     

    Look up proper gain setting procedures for your electronics which involve getting a cheap handheld scope or a SMD DD-1 to do the job correctly.

     

    Let us know how it went.

     

  5. You can overpower a sub without clipping and yo can get a sub blown without any clipping, The thing is that a clipped signal contains significantly more energy than it's undistorted counterpart so you have to avoid clipping at all costs.

     

    The amplifier can't tell if you are overpowering a driver, the clipping light just means that the amplifier is generating  clipping distortion even if you can't hear it and that has nothing to do with the sub.

     

  6. 6 hours ago, ehall8702 said:

    so i bought a CAB45V2 , havent mounted it or even hooked it up yet, havent had any time. on side note, the burnt up jp23 got returned to D4S friday, awaiting decision. i forewarned them i had already bought  a replacement amp and if i had to pay for ANYTHING as far as repair or shipping i wasnt going to waste my time sending it back and i would cease to support thier business anymore ( as of the last few months ive spent about $2k with D4S, i know its not much but ive def recomended thier products to customers and spent my share of my personal cash with em) . My main arguement was even wired at .5 ohm it did not go into protect, didnt shut down, just smoked and flamed out. i scratched it pretty good removing it from my truck WHILE on fire inside so i didnt catch my truck on fire....last resort would have been fire extinguisher as they may a very nasty mess that i tried to avoid. will update with thier decision and have a shiny new jp23v2 for sale most likely.

     

    I am thinking that if they offer that 0.5 ohm warranty and you purchased that warranty then you simply had the awesome luck of getting a dud, as you say it didn't even bother to go into protect, I think you will get a replacement amp tested to work well at 0.5, still I would absolutely pass on using the replacement on the same sub and just sell it or keep it for a one ohm setup of the future.

     

    As for the CAB go it should work perfect and cool at 2 ohm.. hopefully, let us know how did you like it besides the annoying size.

  7. One important thing here is that many european cars need the rear deck opened so that sound waves get into the cabin so you may need to do that.

     

    You can have port to the side, many SPL designs go that way, digital designs enclosure suggestions use port to the side, you just need abundant clearance for the port to work well.

     

    Also bear in mind that WinISD is a basic program and the plots obtained are really coarse representation of what you will get, you need to experiment where to aim sub and port, what location is best for the box, better aesthetics and functionality in car audio many times mean worse performance, my recommendation is setup the way is best for sound, for example fire back the sub and since it is exposed use a grille to protect it if that's better than firing forward.

  8. 1) larger enclosure plays peakier with better low end but with a loss of sound quality. You need to watch out for over excursion at lower power levels with a bigger box, you can check that with WinISD, keep maximum excursion below Xmax at all costs.

     

    2) port area is judged by airspeed, lower airspeed is better, for slot ports I would keep around 26 m/s or less, for aero ports if its just round pipe would keep within 30 m/s, if it has professionally designed flares 35 m/s or a little more. If the form factor of the port is high or you have turns in the port its better to go for lower airspeed.

     

    3) with WinISD add a linkwitz transform filter to simulate cabin gain frequency response, bear in mind that you need to disable it when looking at all the other plots.

  9. Port area needs not to be an exact value, just needs to be large enough for air not to rush in and out too fast which hurts your output and produces noises. Generally a 16 times net volume of the box in square feet should  be a safe bet but evaluating the physics of the situation (driver,  box, power) you can figure a much more adequate number as I did in my last post, if you give some more port area than needed your box becomes larger and heavier than needed to virtually no gain in performance. The only thing you need to bear in mind is that the resulting port is not too long like more than 40 inches

  10. Do the box so you can fire the subs and port to the rear to avoid rattling and open up that rear deck and hopefully enough output reach the cabin, that is actually THE problem with those VIcs, lots of space but then sound gets trapped in there,  build a custom rear deck or as you say get some grilles so that it looks nice.

     

    Also go for a larger box with generous port area so that the box is efficient even if it plays a bit peaky, you will need every bit of possible output so that you can still get a decent experience at the front seats, let us know how it went.

     

  11. 3 hours ago, Varcefiro said:

    Thanks guys and yes that sub is a beater. My friend had 4 built in a horn enclosure for spl so that had a fair share of licks but surprisingly the suspension is stiff.

     

    The sub will easily play below 35Hz, it is no sundown X but it will still do pretty good, take good care of it setting your subsonic filter properly and not letting it see too much power, place the box near the rear end of your vehicle to play louder.

     

  12. So here is a suggestion, power: to sub rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 1 1/2", figure is just an assembly guide:

     

    NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit in it's way inside.

     

    NOTE: your subwoofer looks beat up and poorly repaired don't push it hard at all.

     

     

    wM259F9.png

     

     

     

    y4qNMs5.jpg

     

     

     

  13. I would recommend the skar audio VXF 15 which are $280 each for a few minutes more at their site, they are 1500WW RMS and are very well reviewed.

     

    I would do a ported box BUT you need to open up the rear deck in that car for sound pressure to pass to the cabin effectively.

     

    Some people have done a 4th BP blowthrough to minimize loses but is very complex project that I would only recommend to very experienced people.

  14. Can you post your design 2.1 cubes or pics of the box? 2.1 is to little for that sub so that it plays the low lows best, Id say 2.6,2.7 is where is at and ported, making a hole in a box is not ported, it's a little worse than a nail on your tyre.

     

     

  15. Your amp is just not 0.5 ohm stable, don't keep trying as you may damage it. Also no need to wire at 0.5 the sub is 2000W and the amp can source 3000W at 2 ohm.

     

    If you are not getting a lot from the sub try getting better electrical and a better enclosure design and set your gains correctly.

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