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Ninja_v1.0

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Posts posted by Ninja_v1.0

  1. 54 minutes ago, Mr DeeBeez said:

    I took a look at the 3500 I didn’t think was working, and wouldn’t you know it. It works now! Lol. Hooked up all 4 and did some testing. Didn’t gain much. Got sooooo close to 156, but could only pull off a 155.9. They get a lot warmer much faster with an amp per coil and not much louder on the meter, so I just went back to running a 3500 at .35 each. 

    Hammered on them all day at automotion and even had a couple tapouts. Got subs so hot you could almost burn yourself on the dust cap, but didn’t smell them at all, and they just kept taking it. :) 

    5E9A202E-2EF1-4AE6-8311-384119DA8D84.thumb.jpeg.398b78c97534c0c41386def7b74efa84.jpeg

    your loss of gain with adding additional power could be because box is too big for the additional power you added.  I ran into that exact same issue before.  With a recalculated box from before and the additional power they do ok now.

     

    :ninja:

     

    • Like (+1 Rep) 2
  2. 46 minutes ago, 77-AUDIO said:

    its the way he is dressed, he looks like one.  but i guess i need to watch what I say or brokeass will say something.  

    https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=wigger


    The way hes dressed makes him a wigger?  Having a red shirt that fits, pants that fits and a red hat to match?  I would watch what is said around here as we take offense to what you were said.  You have been warned.  Broke ass didnt say anything, i already noticed it as soon as you posted and was just waiting until i had time to reply.

     

    post has been deleted and only warning given

     

    :ninja:

     

     

    • Like (+1 Rep) 1
  3. 13 hours ago, aculous said:

    never been quite as terrified as riding a busa. My buddy gave me the keys I took it on some back roads which him....we stopped and reminded me that I may not want to be on 1 wheel coming out of every corner or just 90% of the time period. Sold my GSXR750 and still regret it. 

    There is a shit ton of power there for sure.. I bought this one brand new and after a few mods it comes up first, second and sometimes third... whats crazy is that its not the fastest anymore by a long shot...  still the adrenaline i get after riding this thing is amazing.. 

     

    :ninja:

     

     

  4. its all fun and games until that monster comes out... they think its a game until they meet that monster in real life.. you cant click on ignore when that monster is in your face.. you cant click delete when hes staring you down.... all you can do is stand there in fear knowing you are not built for the type of life that you "claimed" you were about online.. damnit man i know exactly where you are coming from

     

    :ninja:

     

     

    • Like (+1 Rep) 1
  5. 3 minutes ago, Raptorman said:

    Yeah there is a lot of hearsay and misinformation in the lithium and battery game in general, hell just car audio as a whole. Lol.

    If it means anything to you, the alternator setup in my video is a Singer 300 and a stock Alt. So about 390A of revved output on tap. And about 260A of idle output on tap. And you see how little it was actually drawing. Alternators weren't being killed. That is after 2:00 of a sustained bassline dropping the battery into the low-mid 12's.

    The people I have seen say lithium killed their alts are the people who have ran XS Power... And coincidentally I have seen lots of cases of XS Power lithium batteries miserably failing to perform and dropping voltage bad. Which of course would cause the alternators to work harder. Food for thought. 

    Thanks for the input.. i still have a lot of research to do.. another thing i consider is the temperature.. here where im at it gets cold.. like 0.. a buddie of mine who has a few lithium's couldn't even play his car because it was too cold with the lithium's.. well thanks for the insite.  looks like i have much more learning to do

     

    :ninja:

     

  6. 1 minute ago, Raptorman said:

    And that's another point. The JY's are shipped at 30% SOC. So they will take a while to charge up. No telling what SOC it was at before the test. I charged mine up on a charger before I even put it in my truck.

     

     

    They really aren't any harder on an alt than an AGM is. If anything, AGM is harder on alternators than lithium, since AGM really starts to kick in around 11.8V-12.0V, and even more so around 11.0V. Lithium will start to kick in around high 12's/low 13's. The system draws from the alternator first. Battery carries the remaining weight. And while there is no draw they don't draw a whole lot. If you look at the recharge tests in my video you will see the current being put into each battery and it will taper off as IR/SOC increases.

    Jump to 12:26 and watch current vs voltage.
     

     

    Now this makes for an interesting debate.. In my situation i live on battery voltage meaning when i fill tilt i have 0 help from my alt.. with that being said i was told from multiple people that due to the resistance with the lithium that causes my alt to see a damn near dead sort and end up going ballz out trying to charge them up.

     

    I have seen and heard stories of people burning up alts due to this.. and within those stories they all stated that their alt was working harder with the lithium than with the agm.. so many stories, so many different opinions.. i have no clue on anything about lithium so its still a learning game for me but i dont wanna be in a situation where im going to burn up the alt i have.

     

    :ninja:

     

     

  7. I'm assuming that you have the alt to back the lithium because from what I have heard and discussed with others, if you do not then your alt is going to have a bad day.

    Also another point is that you will want a AGM in front of the lithium back due to the low resistance of the lithium and the high charge acceptance having the alt to see close to a dead short causing the alt to go ball out until the battery charges back up.

     

    I hope some people who are only able to have a single alt in situations like mine, think about everything before they jump into the lithium boat.  Maybe @Raptorman could chime in on what I said to clarify if what I am saying is true or not as he seems to know quite a lot about the subject?

     

    :ninja:

     

     

  8. like everyone is saying it's probably your PCM doing it. If your car has it did you make sure that any power wire you ran between the alternator and battery was inserted in the battery current sensor? If you have another wire running from the alt to battery and it isn't in the sensor (if your car has one) it can cause erratic voltages since it can't sense what amperage is being drawn to kick the alternator on.

    If your car doesn't have an current sensor on the OEM battery leads then your PCM is controlling the voltage and the only workaround is to either try and see if turning on your headlights manually will trick the alternator to be forced into a 14v output otherwise you can get something like an Mechman voltage boost module or even the xs power VCM but the problem with that is it would get your battery light to come on in the dash as the car won't sense the alternator to see what it is working at and think it is dead when it is actually working.

    vcm wont work on a ford btw

    :ninja:

    But he said it's a 2014 camaro which isn't a ford, which is why I said the VCM.

    i was just stating in general..

    :ninja:

  9. like everyone is saying it's probably your PCM doing it. If your car has it did you make sure that any power wire you ran between the alternator and battery was inserted in the battery current sensor? If you have another wire running from the alt to battery and it isn't in the sensor (if your car has one) it can cause erratic voltages since it can't sense what amperage is being drawn to kick the alternator on.

    If your car doesn't have an current sensor on the OEM battery leads then your PCM is controlling the voltage and the only workaround is to either try and see if turning on your headlights manually will trick the alternator to be forced into a 14v output otherwise you can get something like an Mechman voltage boost module or even the xs power VCM but the problem with that is it would get your battery light to come on in the dash as the car won't sense the alternator to see what it is working at and think it is dead when it is actually working.

    vcm wont work on a ford btw

    :ninja:

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