tacomabanga1986

what ever happened to "assman" and bill? seem's like all the older folk just took time away or something, and galatic monkey? i dunno if he was banned or not, been a while and who was the dude with the acura car that changed the box in it about every month? had 4 kicker comp vr 12's in it off of pg amps? had some good fg skills i thought

im thinking if you glue the thermocuple to the radiator you could possibly sense engine temp with the temp guage, i would also love for tony to make some custom guage like fuel and what knot, man if u did make tacomitors i think they would fly off the shelfs to car guys, i love the look of analog meters but with the accuracy of digital meters, some sweet stuff ya'll have come up with, great work, and they look sick as hell now if a vu din mount with a separate circuit board so u could maby put a temp and voltage guage in the middle of the 2 would be sick as hell looking, dunnot how much trouble it would be tho,

never seen the 4 channel ones, i got a 2ch majestic amp does ok for a 90's amp i think, not alot of power tho

blazer sounds killer man since u like abandon all ships, try this song out, its a little different n weird but i like the beat to it this video better, other one was kinda ehh lol prolly something u would like to, good band

no, ive had that same amp, great amp, mitek who makes mtx audio also makes coustic, that amp needs atleast 4guage and try not to run it lower than 2ohm stereo, they tend to get hot the 3 30amp fuses just helps your circuit board from burning up due to over powering your amp and what knot i had a mtx 500d that i wired to i think .5ohm or maby lower than that n i blew one of the "internal" fuses, replaced it and wala for that amp ied try to run a inline fuse of atleast 80amps if u got it wired to 2ohm stereo, cause when i had mine it kept blowing my 60amp inline fuse due to amp trying to put out more power than its getting coustic makes some good amps, but why u have 3 30amp fuses is due to the requirements of the amp, i guess u could say if u was to clip it enough to get it to put out more than rated power into a 12v signal to subs it will blow a fuse instead of amp, and also help with hooking up the amp backwards, ie pos to neg and neg to pos

i just wonder what it will sound like when everything is acually hooked up vs the shit they did, he's lucky from running it on just batteries didn't burn shit up could have good potential i love big setups

whats the water level in the batteries? if its low it could cause them to read a little low ya those deepcycle 6v batteries aint cheap, i think ours cost $750 and we just have 6 i wonder if u could run 3-4 12v marine/deep cycle batteries in series instead of 7 6v? could be cheaper but i dunno if resurve is the same, imo if it would work maby 3-4 everstart maxxx batteries to get said voltage if u need anything, heres a link to some info on soem things http://www.everythingcarts.com/ hope that helps

mtx designed a box for this that they sold with it, might check there site, but some of there boxs are not the best but they work

folded horns get louder due to space, i dunno how a 4th order would sound in a big area, buddy of mine had some b&w 3ways with 18's and u could feel the "midbass" like 2-300ft away something like this http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=246-406 most pa drivers do there best in the right box, and they dont need extreme xmax to acheve this either, dudes 3ways where getting 150w if that and was loud as hell, and 18'' hardly moved depends if inside or outside, but inside a good slot ported box will work, outside a folded horn does better heres a video of what im talking about hope this helps

pritty much, but most car crossovers are built a little better and usally take more power but in some cases, home audio is built a little better, thats why most of em dont need to be lower than 8ohms and dont take much power to get loud this is different from pa audio tho, my buddy had one hell of a setup in the shop, 2 b&w i think 3ways with 18'' slot ported, horn mid n horn tweet, ran from a realistic 300w 2ch radio and got loud as shit for 150wrms each side, and they take 1000rms each lol, just make sure ur boxs are good for the speakers, are u useing the pa style mids, and if u want loud ied try either 8's or something, but being its going in ur car after collage i can see where 6&1/2's would work, but the bigger mids aint that much more, and would help to keep up with the super tweets, just my .02 good luck with what ever man, should be a killer party setup, imo ied look at pawnshops and what knot for a powered sub like u would use in a home surroundsound setup to hook up with it to help the bass output

ya, most of the xovers ive got the ohm load is mostly on mid/woofer than tweet, but a little info about a speakers ohm load is that, the ohm load a speaker u see has is at rest (not moveing) when moveing it gives or takes resistance (goes up in ohm load or down) why theres a set point is that it gives u something to base off of so u got it in your mind where ur at with something so u dont blow up stuff thats why u hear about "independance rise" while a sub is in a box but with an amp, depending on your budget ied pick up something like this http://www.audiosavings.com/products/DJ-Professional-Amplifier/TECHNICAL-PRO-1500-WATT-INTEGRATED-DJ-AMPLIFIER-PRE-AMP/RXB503.aspx its cheap, should do good for what u want, and its not a car amp, should give u a cleaner power output, i mean its not the best ie crown and what knot, but its good for the price

ya, a dc power alt is about the same price as a new replacement, but i know of an alt place but he dont like aftermarket alts, prolly cause they cost him buisness due to them not being made out of shit like stock stuff is i checked both batteries apart and front is like 12.5 or so, and rear is 12.3-12.4, would be a bitch to take the + terminal off, i was gunna try that but to much wire changeing, my power wire is stiff as hell but when im stoped my voltage goes down to 12v or so and when i go it goes back up again, i dont think its susposto do that that fast but then again i think it might be a voltage regulator going bad in the alt making it do this, i mean if belt was slipping it would make a noise, i dont make a noise anymore i have nere no time to work on shit but i'll try to see what i can do this weekend thankx for the feedback tho ppl

Well,somewhat of an update, I risked it this morning and drove my truck the 30+ miles to work and about a mile away from his house my voltage went from 11.4 to 12.6,12.8, 13.4, 13.8,14.2 OK now wtf is going on with it? Maby its not all the way gone? I guess its OK

ok rechecked everything posted, voltage went up to 13.17 and went down to 13.06 and slowly going down .01 at a time i dunno, would u risk it and drive it tommrow? work is like 20+ miles away from work, or drive another car?

everything off and still doesn't go above 12v, but it cranks normal? prolly cause i got 2 batteries i'll go check now n see if anything has changed

have already done this sir i dunno what else to check, im going back outside n piddle with stuff to see if maby it came unpluged or something, i checked terminal, and at fuse block where 0guage goes to from alt and same reading, when i reved it i could get it to go to 13.1 13.2v and when i let off of it it would go back down to 12.6 or so, should i try n charge the batteries? i checked water level in front battery and its good, its a duralast gold 950cca, and rear is a c&d from ram i think its a 24ah battery

oh, i thought it might be a voltage regulator but i dunno where it is, my truck didn't come with a manual lol doesn't a place like auto zone have a alt thing that can test it while still in the car? truck is a 99 tacoma 3.4l v6, alt is a stock 70amp

voltage was same on posts and terminals grounds is good and terminals not cracked, just eat the chrome off of it, all i see now is a little copper, put some wd40 on it tho, keeps down the acid build up car never died, just made a wierd whining noise, and even if i beat on my system my lights didn't dim, and it acually runs better im gunna go check belt tention here in a min and see if its slipping or not and i dought its due to cold, its only like high 30's low 40s here, on the way home from work voltage never went below 13.4 full tilt, but now with radio on and volume all the way down and headlights on (hids) voltage goes to 11.6 11.4v while car running, doesn't sound normal to me

the battery pos terminal has a little corrosion on it but i cleaned it off, but where my big three is fused at i got the same readings there also if that helps big 3 in 0guage and 2 batteries

well i was cleaning my throttle body and what knot and shut the hood, went inside for a while, went outside and off to get some chinese food, well i was bumping and what knot and i checked my volt meter and it said 12.2v so i was like "ok the meter was acting up befor so its not reading right" when i got home i pulled out my fieldpiece true rms volt meter and checked it with that and it said with car off 12.5v, with car on 12.8v and no accessories running does this mean my alt is gone?

lol, these subs are epic.. "wut kinda subs u got in your car" i got 2 6by9's lol there kinda cool how easy it is to fix em, just undo the middle and pull out the blown voice coil, drop in another one and its done, i dunno how it connects tho good shit

no it was some spray on rhino liner i think he ment where the ground was, most of those bolts are just to sheet metal with a nut welded on the back side, thats how i got mine wired for now, it works but it could be better try to sand where ground wire is and being the box is on it it could of wiggled loose, ied move it to a place that doesn't get to much movement

ied check all connections too, could be either a bad ground or maby speaker wires came loose and throwing it into protect i dunno how u went up in power and no voltage drop, is it louder to ear and what ohm load do u have it at? try to wire it at a higher ohm load just to see what that does and if u have a mids n highs amp does it cut off too? mine would start to get distorted with voltage drop with my old stinger battery, the new c&d and not much of a voltage drop at all, still around 13.8v down to no less than 13.2v at "full tilt" oh, and with how u got it wired u need it, front battery, fuse, fuse, rear battery and then amp, the reason for the second fuse is to fuse the power comeing back threw the power wire i guess when car is off and what knot check voltage at amp too with a dmm (digital multi meter) and see what it goes to

i know alot of our jobs are in china and what knot but i just thought it was neat to see how they made the kits and what knot i thought it was pretty neat, i wonder if these are the $30 kits on ebay? looks like they do a good bit of testing tho

did u ever have your setup active with your pioneer? and bandpassing mids does make a difference, even with different xover points than cross overs that come with speakers when i had my polks wired active it sounded killer, couldn't figure out the whole "point scorce/time alignment thing" so it wasn't the best it could be, plus my tweets are to far away from my mids, but it sounded sick i had my mids crossed over from 80htz-3.5khtz then tweets from 4k up, but with this i had a -12,-6, and pass on the cross over points, if i wanted to do 4'' mids and use the 6&1/2's as sorta a midbass could i just use the tweets with comp set xover and just set it at a lower freq to help pick up the highs? but ya it does work, if your gunna run active get a 3way xover, i have a coustic xm-6 (heres a link http://www.caraudio.com/forums/miscellaneous-car-audio-classifieds/533973-coustic-xm6-3-way-crossover.html ) it lets u take any run of the mill system and make it active with adjustable tweet setting and lets u bandpass mids and what knot, something like this would be alot easier to bandpass your mids and gives u more flexability than those inline filters hope this helps