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alaskanzx5

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Everything posted by alaskanzx5

  1. i just looked at the torres calc page and it looks like that has been corrected so as long as the newest version is used it shouldnt be a proplem. also it is always recomended to double check the math on your own no matter who or what program did it.
  2. you could do a box that is 18"h x 28"w x 18" d with the port being 16.5"h x 3"w x 30 l. that gives you 2.81 cu ft before sub displacement and the port would be 17.62 cu in per sq foot before sub discplacement. im not sure on sub discplacement but i would say right around .2 so you would have .11 of air space you could take up for bracing. i would recomend atleast bracing the baffle.
  3. its the people that want to flame/aurgue that shouldnt post, i would go with wichever is cheaper for you. seeing as to how your gonna start a build you should save as much money as you can
  4. change the dimension to 23h x 38w x 25d with the port being 20.5h x 5.75w x 33.75l it will give you a net volume of 7.01 port of 16.82 per sq in tuned to 31.52hz. this is all according to the torress box calc.
  5. ok, thats 4 and 0 so single chamber wins. thanks guys, now i just gotta finish the design a little add some space for bracing. i might paint the port silver like my car and do black and blue fabric, any suggestions on painting mdf? for fabric it will be black with what ever side ends up on top being blue with a rf symbol in the middle. gonna get it tested several time in different positions before i put the finishing touches on it. the build will start once it gets warm enough, -10 to 30 degrees is to cold to work outside. so another 2 months or so.
  6. ok so i have 2 rf t2 12"s that i will be building box(s) for. i have to design in wich i did make a post on the spl section and did get some good advice over there. Some of them said that a single chamber box will be louder, who else can back this up? Update on post #14
  7. get 5 cut it and if more is needed get another
  8. my first was a rf punch 500.1 about 3-4 years ago then i got a good deal on a rf t300.2 both were great amps. now, i am hapefully using a t1500.1bd constant power.
  9. ok so here is the other box i could do. I havent not made any changes yet to allow space for bracing yet but am working on it
  10. so i have another design, it is a box with a single L slot port the specs 18.75 high x 37.75 wide x 18 deep the port is 17.25 high x 4.75 wide x 24.25 length tuned to 40 hz with 20.44in2 per foot the box will be 4.01 cuft after displacements will be changing the design up a lil more most likely for added bracing and then making a sketch up of the design. for bracing i was thinking right inbetween the subs but to try and do it with out blocking any part of the port so that it doesnt effect the airflow.
  11. search the forum for the torres calc im almost positive there is a version for the mac. also what the dimension with the seats folded down? in order to fit a 14cuft box those seats will have to be folded down or taken out your choice. but the box will be some where around 25hx40wx40d with 1" thick wood of choice. that puts the box at 19.22cu ft before any displacement, add in sub displacement port and bracing and you should be able to get a good box right around 14cuft. just need to know the displacement and mounting depth of subs and i could get a good start of a design by monday.
  12. ive been told with fiberglass 1"-1.5" thick is recomended.
  13. for starters make your own thread so that more people will see it, on that thread you need to include certain info. sub displacement? port or no port? if ported where do you want it tuned at? spl or sq build? im guessing spl net volume needed per sub? dimensions of the trunk?
  14. yeah, this is only my second box build and i like the sound i get from L shaped slot ports. this is a daily ran setup so if i get a 145+ out of it i will be happy. i dont exactly have money to replace anything if i blow it. already blew 1 of the 12s and had it warrantied. i am gonna round of the edges on the port walls and port opening to help with airflow. yeah my last setup was a single rf t2d412" wired at 2 ohms to the 1500.1bdcp so according to the birthsheet 1790watts. ran it like that in 2 different boxes for lil over 6 months when the 12" finaly smoked up the car. did a 143.9 with that. volts dropping down to 12.5-12.8 but now with the 2 12"S at 1 ohms volts drop to 12.0-12.3. getting a 220amp mechman alt and xs d5100 battery to fix that proplem. When its all said and done im hoping for a 1db gain from adding the second 12 and building the box for them. then around .5-1db gain from the electrical upgrade. then maybe .1 from another $100-$150 worth of dynamat extreme. i get all my stuff at dealer cost plus 10% from a local shop here so it helps a lot.
  15. the box design it will be 2 boxes like this one they will be joined together by sheets of mdf on all outter walls with an end result looking like this the box specs the outter walls of the box will all be 1.5" in thickness and will have a total outside dimensions of 20.5" tall x 19.75" deep x 38" wide it will be a little bit of a tight fot for my trunk but will work great. let me now what you think, i have plenty of time to make changes as needed. wont be building the box for atleast another 4-5 months.
  16. wil you being doing spl comps or are you looking for more of a sound quality setup?
  17. ive just gotta say that if those 2 box designs could sound as good as the look that would be nice
  18. ive seen something like this, a slot ported box the top peice plexi glass so that you could see the subs. to hide the screws they used window tint on the edge of the plexi. looked nice
  19. i would say bottom port but add bacing to the face plate.
  20. ive got 2 white strips on my front bumber that i wired to my low beams so that with high beams on they would turn off.
  21. thanks for the advice and yeah im gonna build the box and add the alt and battery at the same time then test it facing every wich way possible in several different positions. i will be testing it after i do the back doors and hatch area with sound deadner. me and a few freinds are gonna spend a day at a local shop that does iasca comps and do all of our amp tuning and hu tuning while messing with the direction and placement of the box. Currently the 2 12"s are in a slot ported obcon box and im gonna test it soon hopefully just need the time. the faceplate of the box is actually coming off. i can hear it slapping the other part of the box at times so i know that box is junk only paid 20 bucks for it though. i can hear/feel a good difference in it compared to when i had the single 12". also forgot to mention im getting a rockford line driver for the sub amp and i already have a rockford 10farad digital cap, i know most people say there worthless but my volts only drop to the the low 12s with it and was in the low 10s with out it.
  22. ok, so i have a rf t1500.1dbcp amp and 2 rf t2 12"s not metered yet but working on it. with just one of the 12s same amp in the slot ported box rockford suggest i did a 143.9. by the time the next comp i want to gain another 1.1 db. i will be adding better batteries big 3 and building a box for the 2 t2 12"s i have now. hopefully adding a ho alt aswell. i do have a box design so for that will have 2 seperate boxes joined together by adding a second layer of .75" mdf to each side of the boxes that will go across both boxes on top bottom back and front. basicaly a single box with 2 chambers and 2 slot ports with 1.5" thik outside walls. the chambers will be a net of 2.0 cuft each with 17.5 of port area per foot at 40 hz. i have 1/0 gauge from front to back and 4gauge to amp 8 gauge to subs. the whole setup will be going into the back of my 2003 ford focus zx5, after the box is made i will get it metered with the the sub and port facing up back and front to see wich is best. the last 2 setups have been better facing back. the hatch door is sound deadend and working on doing the rest of the trunk half the roof is done and the 2 front doors. ( front of car had tons of rattle that annoyed me) will also be trying to get the reat doors and the last half of the roof done before the comp. if anyone has suggestions that would be great and thanks in advance. to buy list mechman 220 amp alt xs d5100 (will be secondary battery) another 1/0 kit for big 3 plus what ever else sound deadner mid range amp rf t400.4 box building meterial
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