TRON

You definitely need to get a gold crown with CAR AUDIO written on it now. Mad props to the guy who inspired us, thanks Steve.

Mechman told me at peak output 350 amp pull off each one I could expect as much as 15-16 hp pull from each one so 60-64 hp loss from the alts wide open. whoa.

You might take a look at a Sundown SA 8". They have good output at low wattage and they are fairly cheap.

Check out Wolfgang Gartner. It's electro house but he throws out some serious bass lines.

depends how much money you want to spend.

Frick you could power a house or two off those. I wonder how much horsepower they take at peak output.

I love reading ole emails, makes you wonder what the hell you were really like when you were a kid.

Fixed up the dash today, molded the deck housing and made it nice a sleek. using gorilla glue to get it stuck in position J B Kwik is perfect for the job. COLD WELDING! one coat of gloss black before flat black. Dont know why but i was told buy friend that it helps the flat black look better? I trust him so I gave it a go and WOW! that looks good! Not bad. Looks swell.

Neo-magnets, or rare earth magnets. You can buy them in doughnut shapes and put screws through the ones on the bottom, and epoxy the ones on the plexi. That way you'd be able to remove the plexi without disassembling anything. That would also work real good with multiple windows. ...though, rare earth magnets hold like glue.

It fits good. Starting the amp rack. frick thats real blurry. The enclosure and the rack will line up with the interior, theres a mdf floor going in the trunk to level things out. there it is And time warp because i forgot to take pictures...it seems to have built itself. FYI : I dont really enjoy that Hifonics amp, it was cheap and outputs good power...but its ugly. Two L3's. For my first build i figured id keep it small. Two 12s seems real small compared to the stuff on this forum. A nice lexan cover for the rack. Frick...Folgers! Shout out to Tony. Cover on and all the wiring cleaned up. Time warp again and it magically wraps itslef. Got instagram and gave it a go terrible picture. the amp rack wanted to play piano... FYI: the bad wraping job on the inside round corners was fixed. I painted the plastic mounting brackets on the amp so its not so ugly. frick so many blurry pictures. And thats what it looks like. a few wrinkels in the vinyl but the seat hides it almost all of the time. Gawdang instagram again.

Yeah so I'm just another amateur doing a build but I have to say that almost everything that I've learned going into this build (except wood working) came from the SMD forum. Props SMD forum, and Steve. FYI - Majority of these pictures are terrible quality, and I forget to take pictures so there's lots of...gaps. This post is of the back end of the build, im starting door panels and pillars soon hoplefully. Give me your honset feedback, please, I want to know how im doing. Equpiment (in the back): Big three from Auto Electric Supply - TONY! woo! Singer 185A Alt - MIKE! woo! Hifonics HFI1500d (2) Kicker L3 solo barac Cadence 2 Farad capacitor. (i know they dont do much for you but it came witht the amp, it displays voltage and it lights up and stuff which is cool. lights are cool) 2003 Mazda Protege 5 hatchback. Hatchbacks are better that sedans because the trunk is open to the inside of the car! Singer 185a alt. Thanks a bunch Mike! The only bad part about the alternator, I had to remove the complete front axle, and hub to install it. Mazda engineering at its best. A few wires. OH, my 1200D had a problem so I sent her back and got a 5100R under the hood, i had the stock battery while i was getting things sorted with XS That beautiful big 3 kit from Auto Electric Supply. Thanks Tony! Starting da friggin box 1" Screws for strength. Pilot hole drilled and countersunk. My grandpa's jigsaw. Its at least 30 years old and cuts like the wood is butter. 35HZ is the tuning These are probably the best way to screw do your drivers. No more 8 ga, so double up the 12ga. That equals 6ga! more or less...frick thats blurry. It fits!

Well I was considering just painting part of the box, maybe the top and wrapping the rest in vinyl or something.

I'm rebuilding my car right now and I want to paint the sub enclosure black but more like, grand piano black (all glossy, almost like a mirror) I've seen lots of guys accomplish this kind of finish, steve's tower speakers are exactly what im talking about. So how do you get that finish? I've done body work on cars and managed to get it, but that's metal, not wood... I don't need to to be as good as his towers but something similar would be nice.

In my opinion, you're getting way more for your money with XS power batteries. Think about it, they are double the price but probably output five times as much power for longer periods of time than a stock battery. Plus they look cool. If your wondering why everyone is telling you to chuck the cap, its because all a capacitor does is deliver the power/charge to you amplifier quicker than the stock charging system in your car can when you amp draw more power.

He's right, you gotta call or email alt companies to find out the right stuff...I kinda mentioned that earlier.

What was wrong with my info? Seriously honest, becasue from what I know, there's nothing wrong with it...ps. Even though people give out info on a forum, I'd never go with their info with out asking a professional first, and neither should anyone else.

Well if you're talking about over 8000 watts peaking then you'll definitely want to run dual 300+ alts and two or three batteries. Id say for batteries... XS Power's D3100 or XP3000. These batteries have the best Ah (amp hours) and maximum amp ratings. Terribly pricy but that's the cost of big power. I'm betting that you can get two 350 amp alts and the necessary hardware from Mechman. You'd have to find out if you can run two alts under your hood becasue typically, when you have multiple alternators, you leave the stock one in and just add extras, then you know that your aftermarket alts are only supplying power to your amplifiers.

I'm no professional but I understand electricity enough to tell you that you definitely need a HO alt/battery The total wattage that your vehicle can produce is found by multiplying the amps by the voltage. 140amps x 14.2 (typical charge) = 1988 watts available. Consider that your vehicle uses some of that power...lets say 60 amps? (60x14.2= 852watts) that leaves you with 1136 watts left over for any aftermarket electronics. Also consider that NO amplifier is %100 efficient... maybe %80 and that's really good. If you want to run a total of 4100watts ( 4100/14.2=288amps) You need a minimum of 288 amps surplus. Check out Mechman or Singer alternators, you'll probably want something big like 350 amps or dual alts. And make sure you get a battery or two because the battery acts like a filter to smooth out the current created from the alt as is converts AC to DC So see what XS power has for your application. !Send emails to these people, they'll hook you up with the right stuff! *remember* - Wattage is the transfer of electricity...not "power" or whatever. Your amplifiers say they can make 4100 watts ONLY if that amount is available. If you don't have enough current to feed your amplifiers they will try to draw more power, resulting in a voltage drop which will cause excessive heating and probably do bad things to you battery or alt. - fixed my horrible spelling -

I don't have my subs on full all of the time...I listen to music with low bass levels.

Yeah I figure Its time to work on the doors, and maybe upgrade or get a second set of mids?

120hz....im guessing a 18db slope.

Okay, but I still want to know how to completely cut out the lows going to my speakers...like a drop off, not a slope.

yeah which is why I wondered if there are amps that will actually have good wattage at high impedance.

Doesn't raising your impedance give you better sound quality?