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DubNDodge

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Everything posted by DubNDodge

  1. No!! You have got to be kidding You sound seriously disappointed! this is the age of the internet and youtube! within 30min of the air in Europe SOMEBODY will upload it for the world to see! -Drew Oh duh... should've remembered that
  2. Dang it I'm dying to know Pretty sure either alternator case, battery neg is right. But I like how Bill thinks, with the positive being the return point of electrons.
  3. I thought that wire was supposed to be from chassis to block. Not battery negative to block. But I thought that it's overall purpose was to ground to the alternator. So you should just ground chassis to a bolt on the alternator case. Correct me if I'm wrong.
  4. wut.. my car is a group 75 battery.. I thought groups were all relatively the same size.
  5. Blown struts means its on springs only. Shocks/struts keep the springs in check. oh duh I should've known that.
  6. lol that awesome. Would actual blown struts make it bounce up that high? I figured blown struts ment that the tire was riding on the wheel well.
  7. x2 i don't know how much those brand X meters cost these days but i am pretty sure its not $10. When i first started to use them, they were $59 online and $70+ at the store (msrp). I also remember paying $35 a few years down the road for yet another REPLACEMENT. I am sure "brand X" has made MILLIONS of these, so if that happens to us, i can surely bring the price down a few bucks (on our product) We make them by the hundreds at this time and the first run is always more then 5 years from now with a lot of sales. i will try to keep it reasonable as possible. Bottom line, 5 years from now, our product will still be giving great service. I can't get 2 weeks out of "brand X". I only had one last a year....a miracle......but it too, eventually died. fuck brand X's meter. Those motherfuckers owe me money. I had faith in that brand due to it being a big name, so i bought at least 5 more after i was having issues......because i figured it was just a fluke. Electronics WILL go bad sometimes. But this one is just junk. This is why we really wanted to make our own, because i was tired of buying JUNK. My bad, I saw a VM on sonic for around 20$ so I exaggerated the price down a bit to point out its worth the money for a quality product. But dang $70! I figured it'd be around $100ish
  8. One thing that always is true about car audio. You get what you pay for. 10$ for a reading every second, which missed that 11.5 drop. Or pay the higher price and watch every thousandth of a second, not missing that drop. x2
  9. How much improvement was there vs using the power out of the HU?
  10. I finally realized that the other day. I was showing someone my system and they asked how I heard the vocals. I know the songs so I can hear the lyrics, but others who don't only hear bass. That's what made me what to get a 2 ch. Ok, I'll run the second one back when I run the speaker wire up. But I really don't feel like spending 150$+ on a 100.2 @ 4ohms. I'll do some more looking around for a deal I guess. Plus I'm guessing that 100w will exlpode the xplods lol
  11. Also could I run the RCA's though the "output" RCA to my subwoofer? Or would I need to run 2 pairs of RCA back from the HU. (I have 3 sets of RCA hookups on HU)
  12. That amplifier only puts out 60w at 4 ohm, I understand its DD but I have a hard time paying 45$ more for just 20 watts, unless its extremly underrated. I am currently looking at RF prime125-2. You would see a big difference. Although the hu says 18-23 it's more like probably 10-15. Most hu and amPs do not put out what they say. Unless they are 100% efficient. Its more like 75-80% of stated power. So for what you are looking for getting a 100x2 gives you more useable power and room for upgrading later. Well most amplifiers, if they are CEA compliant they will put out rated power won't they? I am in the process of upgrading now, and I would just want to be able to hear the vocals when there is going to be 1200w of subwoofer. But thanks for letting me know I would see a difference
  13. I know that most head units put out about 18-23 watts rms to door speakers. Currently my speakers are just ran off the head unit. Would I notice a huge difference with a 40 watt 2 channel amplifier? (40w on each channel not 20w) Or should I just save up and get something like a 80.2 amplifier. I have not really dealt with watts driving speakers before, just subwoofer.
  14. Holy Crap!!! look at the reinforcement on the inside of that van! oh and that girl is damn beautiful
  15. LMAO hell no. A box with a square hole is leaky as fuck. Now a box with a PORT, (a port and a hole are NOT the same thing) has to be calculated to work correctly. Port area (the surface area of the port opening) and port length (the length of the "tunnel" you could say) make a port what it is. If you don't have enough port area the box will choke your sub and be inefficient. Too much port area and the box won't have much control over the sub and (once again) it will be inefficient. If you don't have the ports in the right PLACE (for example, if it's too close to the sub) then it won't work right either. Enclosure size mostly has to do with mechanical power handling vs efficiency. A bigger box will be louder, but the sub will move more. If it's WAY too big, the sub won't be able to pressurize all the space and it won't be loud at all. A smaller box will be quieter but it will better control the sub's movement. Too small a box and the sub will be choked and not be very loud. Everything is a compromise. You balance and calculate until the box fits your needs. EDIT: Hmmm...that was a lot shorter than it looked on my phone lol I was not thinking at all when I posted that. derp. anyways thanks for that info. So a bad box could be any box that is oversized for the sub or if the port is too close to the sub. ok, well what would be considered too close to the sub? Or is that just dependent on the size of the sub? In my future build I am trying to figure out if 2 12's or 1 15 would suite me best. 15 being the hdc3 and the 2 12s being sdc2.5.
  16. my bad reading > me But still the re box calculator has some problems, use torres. Im still a little flusterd on what a bad box design is. Its just a box with a square hole and a board off that hole right? (simplest explaination there I can think of) Or can there be too much volume?
  17. No mean to thread jack but how can there be a bad box design? I never realized that there were different box designs. I figured that there were different volumes and tunings and that was it. Just snooping around the forums for the best bang for a 1200 rms @2ohm with 4-4.5ish cubes. Dunno which brand to go with or size subs. (2x12 or 1x15) Was planning on using RE's box calc. Is that this "bad design" that Kingsuv talks about?
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