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b-dubs89

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Posts posted by b-dubs89

  1. i like to use a piece of solid copper wire like you would use for residential wiring (just 1 wire) push it through an existing grommet that looks usable and then wrap the fish wire around the power cable to pull and then tape shit out of it so it don't come loose . after i have this done i spray the grommet and power wire with silicone spray lube the stuff that leaves a dry film and then pull it through . sometimes i have had to chew a little bit out of the existing grommet to make it fit . if you have to trim the grommet to get a better fit you can seal it up good with silicone gasket make or sealant .

    if you don't want to go that route i don't see why a guy shouldn't be able run power under the car , definatley want to make sure you get the routing right to avoid anything that can damage you power cable and if it were me i would put the power cable inside a peice of garden hose or something to protect it from the elements .

  2. here's a few ideas for amps . probably best to figure out what amp you are gonna run before ordering subs so you get the right ohm load when it all comes together . as for figuring the power and ohms , add the rms power of the number of subs together and that is that . 2 subs @ 500 watts rms each = 1000 watt rms together .

    your ohms can go 1 of 2 ways depending on how you wire , if you paralell 2 coils the ohm load drops by half , 2-4 ohms coils paralell = 2ohm , if your wire 2 coils in series it doubles , 2-4ohm coils in sereis =8ohm load .

    hope this helps .

    http://www.woofersetc.com/p-9255-saz-1000d-sundown-audio-1000w-1-channel-monoblock-amplifier.aspx

    http://www.woofersetc.com/p-9258-sax-1200d-sundown-audio-1200w-1-channel-monoblock-amplifier.aspx

    http://www.woofersetc.com/p-9395-brz12001d-hifonics-1200w-brutus-series-1-channel-monoblock-class-d-amplifier.aspx

    http://www.woofersetc.com/p-8840-brz17001d-hifonics-brutus-series-1700w-rms-1-channel-monoblock-super-class-d-amplifier.aspx

  3. all the shipping companies can be janky . and what alot of people don't know is that it can be tough to be reimbursed by insurance if the item damaged was packed in questionable way. the only way i know of where there is almost no chance insurance will give you a hard time is when: the item is in manufacture packaging and then packed inside a larger box with peanuts separating the inner and outer box .

  4. i like the baffle and selling it won't happen because 13.5 subs are all that will fit 2nd nobody is going to want to give me the $220 that i have into materials to get to this point . there is a whole 4x8 of board , 2 gal of resin , $35 worth of glass matt and a few other things .

    and besides if i sold it i wouldn't learn anything

  5. looks too small for a ported box for 3 12's

    they are 13.5's and i am somewhere between 6 and 8 cubic ft hard to say exactly because of the baffle . why how big would you say it should be , jl says 2.6 cub per sub ported , but i don't buy that their specs will sound good to me . i didn't like the last 2 boxes i built to jl specs .

  6. i built this box in july have had it in playing for a while and although i am not disappointed and wouldn't call it a failure , i think it could perform a little better .i am somewhere between 6-8 cubic feet and it is currently sealed which my box is probably too big to be sealed but it should be in the volume to go ported . i am thinking about installing some aero ports or adding a slot port onto the rear of the box . the subs i have are jl audio 13w1 4 ohm and i have them running on about 1000 watt rms . they are in a chevy venture

    i am seeking input on what i should tune for . i listen to all types of music and would rather it sound good to me than be the loudest possible tuning . hope someone can help me get the best possible sound going ported with this , because i am pretty much lost on port tuning .

    DSCF2892.jpg

  7. I would never use any sort of additive not recommended by the manufacturer in my vehicle. If I had to I would only choose Royal Purple products as I know they are of high quality. If you are burning oil you have another deeper issue and I would prefer to remedy that, myself, rather than dump some magic liquid in my oil.

    lucas oil will not void any warranties , says it on the bottle . good stuff .

    worn parts and high mile engines can be funny , say a guy has ran quakerstate oil for 80,000 miles with no issues and you didn't know that and you change oil and use valvoline because you like valvoline and now your engine is consuming a little bit of oil . have it rebuilt or just run some lucas to stop or slow oil consumption ?

    besides the manufacture doesn't want your vehicle to run forever they didn't make enough money off selling you just 1 vehicle .

    to each to their own i guess , but just because gm or dodge or toyota doesn't recommend something , doesn't mean anything

    PS nothing magical about lucas oil stabilizer , it is a bit thicker than oil and that is pretty much how it works

  8. lucas oil , they have a synthetic oil stabilizer too the only place i have seen it is o'rielly . i have had so many high mile vehicles that would burn a qt of oil in 400-500 miles every time adding between a half to 1 qt of lucas stops that consumption right away .

    i will also say their auto-trans additive has made a difference in every chevy truck i have had and ran some in . made them shift better and went from 15mpg to 16 mpg .

    lucas oil ftw

  9. if you must tune by ear use music that you are familiar with and use more than just a 2or3 songs . and double and triple check your settings in the next few days to come . i bought an o-scope for setting amp gains but as time goes on i am wanting the dd1 and the newest tool coming from smd . i ran into the same thing none of the shops around where i live have an o-scope , dd1 , termlab or none of them tools .

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