Raptorman

Yes I realize this. Will be coming into a bit of money here shortly, all going towards new stuff. Thanks everyone!

Sorry I've been AFK, I will be getting a new amp. I know the amp I have isn't too great, i'll be getting probably a SAZ 2500D or 3500D

Just blew my Power Acoustik MOFO a few days ago, haha, go figure. Time to step it up. I've been looking around for a nice, loud 15. I'm looking for around 2500-3500 RMS. And under $500. I found a AA Mayhem Dual 2 for $490, what do you guys suggest? Want to keep the price low as possible, anything under 500 please. Thanks! -Hunter

Possibly, I have to leave my computer-source for now though. I will come back soon and check out if anything else has been added in this thread. Thanks everyone!

Yeah I think if the surrounding air in the box were ALL to be cooled, that'd be the most efficient way, instead of some water-loop or whatever. Damn I'd love to try this out some day haha.

This is what I was going to say. Thanks for saving me the typing lol Isn't there a Soundstream sub that can take like 10k rms burps even though I believe it's rated much lower? (Just read this on this forum a week ago) Wouldn't that be an example of a sub that would benefit from the cooling because mechanically is seems it can take the 10k rms? Sorry, I'm quite the noob. There would be a couple basic things to consider regarding mechanical power handling - There is the excursion limits of the driver, which can be controlled with the enclosure - Possibly a different set of spiders to better control the mechanical motion - The is the coil-cone joint - And there is the spider-coil joint Edit: Just brain storming out-loud here How about putting some sort of water proof stretchable cover along the bottom of the spiders, then encasing everything from the spiders to the bottom of the magnet in some sort of closed container Then have a nonconductive coolant sprayed directly onto the coil above and below the magnetic gap. Hook everything up in a closed loop system so there is no splatter/loss Or possibly just AC the crap out of the inside of your box? Haha. Maybe route the AC in your car to the box. Don't know how cold that would get. Now we're getting into stuff about cars, which I'm also not that bright with, haha!

Haha, I hardly have enough money to fund my computer hobby. I'm only 17 and only run a small computer repair shop. I wish, I'd try this in a heartbeat.

This is what I was going to say. Thanks for saving me the typing lol Isn't there a Soundstream sub that can take like 10k rms burps even though I believe it's rated much lower? (Just read this on this forum a week ago) Wouldn't that be an example of a sub that would benefit from the cooling because mechanically is seems it can take the 10k rms? Sorry, I'm quite the noob.

Thank you, I run a 2500k. Just had another thought, the radiators would probably be gargantuan. My double thick 3x120mm Radiator is pretty massive and it only cools enough for around 400 watts of power.

EDIT: Just noticed I spelled "Hypothetical" wrong, my bad. Alright, so to set up the question, I'm going to state a possible similarity. Also note, I am not as car audio inclined as I am in the computer world, so keep that in mind. I personally am really big into computers, and I am a big "Overclocking" guy. It means you push your computer over it's stock performance, but the downside is heat and possible instability. For my benchmarking setup in my garage I use anywhere from Water, Dry Ice, to Liquid Nitrogen to cool my computer to get the most possible performance out of it. For my daily rig in my house I use a water loop to cool my processor that is running at 5.2ghz from a stock 3.3ghz. So, this is the possibly ignorant, stupid question that may quickly be shot down, but I've thought a lot about it. If someone were to somehow rig up some real-deal cooling system to a subwoofer (or amp), and I'm not talking about dinky fans, I'm talking a water-loop, or whatever it may be, would the sub and/or amps be able to be "overclocked?" I know that say, the Ascendant Audio SMD 15" sub can handle 3500 watts of THERMAL rms power, as the description says. But if you were to cool it somehow, would it take more? Or does it just not work like that for car audio? I am currently out of state so I don't have much computer access, but I will check back whenever I can. Thank you to anyone who throws in their .02

I'm already an addict, haha. And yeah I know these sub's aren't the best, but I wanted something cheap but also decent to get me on my feet. I'll probably just end up blowing it with this new amp and then that would give me a nice excuse to get a better sub. Haha!

What would the big3 do to help him having a less than substantial amp? Big 3 helps if you have voltage drop...thats it....its not a magical power adder that gets you more rms power from your amp. BRZ's are not amazing but gets the job done alright....at least their ratings are much more realistic...I would venture to say its still better than the Soundstorm. Using the fuse rating 40x3 and a perfect world of 14.4volts you get 120amps x 14.4v = 1728watts. Thats in a perfect world...I doubt it puts that much out...my BRZ is fused for 140amps and puts out 1000-1100... maybe lol. OP save a few bucks more and go with BC2000 Crecendo...or even try and find a used one or used sundown or skar 1500. THere are some more too...just go through the FS secton. I looked up the Crecendo. It seems they're hard to find? Would you know where I could purchase one? Thanks. Edit: I'd prefer to get one new, not used. But if I have to I will peruse the FS section to find one. Here it is new from them direct. http://store.crescen...o.com/bassclef/ I misread your original post they are pretty far from your budget but I would say its worth it to save a little more. Yeah I will probably save for it. I'm not in that big of a rush for a new amp. Thank you!

Where? D: I got it for 190$ off of Sonic. And thanks guys for the links.

What would the big3 do to help him having a less than substantial amp? Big 3 helps if you have voltage drop...thats it....its not a magical power adder that gets you more rms power from your amp. BRZ's are not amazing but gets the job done alright....at least their ratings are much more realistic...I would venture to say its still better than the Soundstorm. Using the fuse rating 40x3 and a perfect world of 14.4volts you get 120amps x 14.4v = 1728watts. Thats in a perfect world...I doubt it puts that much out...my BRZ is fused for 140amps and puts out 1000-1100... maybe lol. OP save a few bucks more and go with BC2000 Crecendo...or even try and find a used one or used sundown or skar 1500. THere are some more too...just go through the FS secton. I looked up the Crecendo. It seems they're hard to find? Would you know where I could purchase one? Thanks. Edit: I'd prefer to get one new, not used. But if I have to I will peruse the FS section to find one.

i said "decent" not "good". just remember to factor that in your decision. Well, wouldn't you think it'd be at least a lot better than this POS I have now? Or would there be hardly any difference?

Hmm I think I'd probably choose the Brutus. It's pretty cheap, and a lot of people mention it as a good amp. Thank you for your help everyone!

I have a Power Acoustik MOFO 152X sub. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17677_Power-Acoustik-MOFO-152X.html Currently it's being powered by a crappy Soundstorm SSL Evolution 4000D wired at 4 ohm. I would like to have a good amp that puts out 1500-1700 rms while wired to 1 ohm. Electrical currently will only drop to 13.8 at the most from a 14.4 idle. My budget is anywhere under 300. Lower the better, obviously. My income is next to nothing. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you. -Hunter

Okay good stuff, what do you mean by the Sublevel? I haven't seen that on my head unit, do you just mean the bass level? I have that set currently at -6, and my treble at +4. So my max safe is 43?

Don't even use a ear as a judge. Yeah I know I shouldn't, not touching anything higher until I find out from somewhere what the clip volume is.

Damn haha I've been keeping it at a max of 40. But it's sounded clean to me, but I don't really have an ear for it yet.

Yup, mine has a max of 46 as well. Well good stuff! Thanks man, I look forward to finally figuring this out. Haha.

I have this head unit and was curious as to what volume it starts to clip at. I'm sure it isn't clipless because it is not that high quality, just want to know my max safe number. Thank you -Hunter

Alright thanks dude.

Sorry for the quality of these pictures, I don't have a good camera. But these will suffice. Trunk entrance height. Can't see the tape measure well but it's 17" http://s1055.photobu...4-16_153023.jpg Trunk height - 17" http://s1055.photobu...4-16_152941.jpg Trunk width - 38" but the trunk entrance will only let me put in 32" http://s1055.photobu...4-16_152919.jpg Entire Trunk http://s1055.photobu...4-16_152803.jpg So it can't be 38" wide unless I can like build a box in halves and slide each half in and then glue it together and whatnot once it's in and let it sit. If there's even a good way to do that, hahah!

Sure thing, I will post pictures in a couple hours when I get home.