REVOofRustler

Is there a limited availability of stuff? Specifically a 175.4?

I was just trying to decide between getting a DC 270xp and a Mechman 270 for my Dakota, but I think you guys just made my decision for me! This is an awesome thing you guys are doing here!

Sox if I get a D2700 and the voltage out of the box is between 12.6 at 12.8, I won't need to charge it?

If someone can confirm this, or tell me it's wrong, then that would be awesome! Anyways, I think I read somewhere that the Fs (free air resonance frequency) of the speaker is where it's impedance is the highest. This means that at that frequency it will hardly need any power to move the cone. So even though the amp really is barely putting out any power at those frequencies, it can still move the cone without issue.

I've got the Crescendo 2k right now which I'm actually planning to hook up to a Q12 once I get my electrical up to par. It's been a great amp so far though. It doesn't even get warm after playing it full tilt for 15-20 minutes. That's at 2 ohms though.

Ive actually been planning to do this when I build my enclosure. I've got three cans of plasti dip sittin at home that I was planning on painting my wheels with. I'll start building the enclosure when i get home in about a week.

The size specs for a ported box for a q12 is 1.8 - 2.5, so it should work out well. It will be a bit big while I have my Type R though. I might just make a build thread for my truck once I get home in about two weeks.

I can't really tell you much about dividing the chambers, but since the recommended colume is. 5-.75, it might be better to get around .6 cubic feet per sub, giving you a net volume somewhere around 2.4 to 2.5 cubes.

Alright, so when I measured the displacement of my 45's I did something very wrong, so when I went back and rechecked everything I found out that the net volume was actually about 2.6 cubic feet and tuned to 29 hertz... So after doing a bit of redesigning (and triple checking everything...) this is my current box design, and hopefully the one I'll be able to stick with: I made sure that the skinniest part of the port bend was 2.25, as to avoid bottle necking. I'm looking forward to coming home from vacation to get this thing done!

So like this one? Ram - i dont really even have enough room (depth wise) to do a top mount box. Any reason I should avoid port forward and sub forward?

Ohhhhhhh I see what it's saying now! Thanks! Here's another question though... At the bottom of the calculator it shows the actual equation it's using. However, it's using a port length of 33 inches in the equation when I've only inputted 32 inches into the calculator. Where is that extra inch in the equation coming from? Sorry for all the questions!

I've got another question about Torres that's probably really stupid, but whatever. I looked in the "Help" menu of the calculator and it says, "Port length uses the box wall or baffle(s) as part of the port length. So a port that is 10" long with one baffle using .75" wood will only need to be 9.25" long as the box wall or baffle(s) will account for the other .75". If using two baffles, then it would be 8.5" long as the baffle will account for 1.5" of port length." So does this mean that my port length of 32 inches would start after the second baffle (Which would give it an actual port length of 33.5 inches since I'm using a double baffle)? It can only really make a difference of like .5 hertz so it's not a huge issue, but it would just be nice to know how Torres is measuring the port length.

I would if I could! Haha. I ride dirtbikes and mountain bikes, so I need to be able to have a bed to put all my toys in. Im also workin a minimum wage job so buying another car really isnt an option for me. It would definitely be fun though!

Can anyone give advice on cutting the corner like that? I wanna make sure the box fits well in my truck, but if I lose too much strength in the box because of it, I'll just toss that idea out.

Awesome! Thanks for the input!

Hey guys! This is my first time building a box and I think I have it figured it out, but I still have a few questions. The box is going in the back seat of my extended cab Dodge Dakota, so I don't really have a ton of room to work with. I'm trying to keep one seat in the back open so I can fit two other people in my truck. Anyways, here's what I've done with the box calculator: For the calculator, do I need to find out the displacement of my port walls? Or does it factor that in by itself? The displacement I have plugged in there is just from the 45's. Here's what I've been able to come up with in Sketchup: The box will be pushed as far towards the passenger side as possible with the port basically pointing between the passenger seat and the door. I was wondering though, would it be ok to "cut out" the corner of the box like this? That corner would be up against the back rest and the side of the cab. If doing the corner on the box like that is ok, it would help with getting it to sit further back in the seat. Also, does it matter where the sub is placed on the baffle? For example: Placed close to the port vs. Placed away from the port vs. centered like in the first picture of the box. For now I'm stuck with a 12" Type R, but I'll be ordering a Crescendo BC2000D when I get back from vacation in a couple weeks. As for options on the Q12, I'll be getting the cooling package, the extra spider, and I'm wondering if getting the internal leads is worth the extra $25 bucks. I've read on here that it will eliminate lead slap, but I've never actually heard a system with lead slap. I'll be running the Q12 at 1 ohm, and I'll keep the gain down a bit so it's not quite getting the whole 2250 rms. Here's a few pictures to show you how much space I have to work with: This is the prefab box I have now, and I believe it's about 18 inches wide and 15 inches deep at deepest part. Anyways, I'm trying to get this done right the first time, so any help is appreciated! Thanks!