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Kade

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Posts posted by Kade

  1. If you are using a single BRZ1200, yes it will work, you will be delivering about 330W to each sub since the amp delivers rated at 1 ohm not at 1 1/3.

    Cool. Think you can draw me up one of those fancy blueprints for a 3sub ported box this time? 40in wide x 25in deep x 17in tall. Whatever design you think is best.

  2. [

    I didn't think about that. So, when you build a box, you have to take in account the space a physical speaker takes up in a box?

    Also, Since the box you first designed is too big for what I'm trying to do in my car, what would I lose if I went to 3 subs in a ported box opposed to 4?

    Right, not only the sub but the port and all the wood and any other thing that sometimes is put in there like bracing.

    Well you will have less power handling and an impedance mess since you cant wire 3 D2 subs to 2 ohm.

    Alright I understand that.

    My amp is 1ohm stable. Adding a 3rd D2 sub drops my load down to 1.33ohms instead of 2ohm that I'm running now. I should be safe, right?

  3. I'd try and get a little bit more net volume if you have the room. Shoot for at least the 5.6, maybe even a lil larger like 5.8-6.0.

    Edit- Just looked at your max dimensions, and you are pretty much at the largest box you can get with joex's design unless you are willing to go a little higher on the height. Or you can use aero ports to save a little more volume.

    Measured everything out again. That 4 sub box is going to take up any and all of my trunk space. I won't have room for my amp rack I've planned out =( I can't figure out how to upload pics, but the 02 Tribute hatch is way larger than an 07 Escape, Ken. From the bottom of the seat. 40x33x18...If I were to recline the seats, 40x25x18.

    Kade you might have missed this note before the specs for vented enclosures:

    "Vb is the gross volume, which is the TOTAL internal volume, before any speaker and/or port displacement."

    They denote Vb as the gross volume not the net as is usually used for. I use Vb to denote net volume.

    I didn't think about that. So, when you build a box, you have to take in account the space a physical speaker takes up in a box?

    Also, Since the box you first designed is too big for what I'm trying to do in my car, what would I lose if I went to 3 subs in a ported box opposed to 4?

  4. Well first of all, I'm not familiar with those specific drivers, so I really couldn't tell you if joex's design is on point, however, it does look to be on point within specs.

    And when I say properly designed, I mean an enclosure that suits your drivers vehicle. For example, if you have an SUV, generally best results come from having your subs up, and port firing back towards the hatch. Or in a trunk car, subs and port both facing rear, or forward sealed off work well.

    And when I say properly built, I'm talking about a good solid made box with proper bracing, made out of 3/4" mdf or 13 ply Baltic birch (not the home depot crap) and sealed well with no air leaks.

    Hope this helps man :drinks:

    Thanks for the insight. In a ported design, Rockford recommends 1.40 cubic feet per driver, which amounts to 5.6ft^3 instead of Joe's listed 5.4ft^3. I don't know if I'm missing any measurements or he shrunk the box on account of tuning(?)

    what i would suggest is checking your dimensions to your cargo area again i drive a 07 escape and the depth is not 25. given the tribute is almost the same vehicle. and if you do manage to fit that in there you will need sub and port up because the hatch will be touch the box

    I'll check them again, but I do believe I measured 25in from the hatchback to the top of the back seat reclined. I'll double check tomorrow though.

  5. Sweet! thanks man. Now, how would this design look if I wanted it sealed? From what I've been reading, a sealed box is more my tastes because there's less of a delay in quick drum beats as opposed to a ported box. Is this true?

    It's a myth that a sealed box produces "quicker" or "tighter" bass. A properly designed and built ported box will do just fine with any music and will give you more output than a sealed box can give you.

    Not bashing Joe X's design, but would the ported box he designed fall in your category of "properly designed"? Also, by properly built, you're talking about build quality(sturdy, solid, not falling apart easily etc.)?

    Sweet! thanks man. Now, how would this design look if I wanted it sealed? From what I've been reading, a sealed box is more my tastes because there's less of a delay in quick drum beats as opposed to a ported box. Is this true?

    you asked this question at the caraudio.com forum didn't you?

    lol

    i said that because there was a time on there years ago that no one on the forum was accepted by others unless you ran a sealed box. If you had a ported your system was shit and everyone hated on you until you just quite visiting.

    I 1000000000000000000000000000000% agree with what sprkn ranger said,

    A sealed box usually ends with disopointment.

    you have 4 10s because you want it to slam, please do not restrict the capabilities of what you have by putting them in a sealed box.

    Never been to that forum or any other forum lol. Got my first system from a local shop by kind of guessing what I wanted based on my knowledge of instrument amplifiers and speakers. My purchase came out very well and I'm pleased with the sound of my current system. I just wanted to expand while trying some new things. This forum seems to have a high reputation, so here I am =)

    That last sentence makes a lot of sense

  6. 2002 Mazda tribute. 40in wide, 25in deep, 17in tall. I have some other ideas for an amp rack to be flush with my back seats so that my amps, battery and wires are hidden unless I fold my seats down. Then, putting a 3-way component on top of the amp rack in an isolated box that is also flush with the headrest at 17in. tall. So, I'd like to take about 8in off the depth of my hatchback to be able to fit that rack in. I listen to mostly metal and use my subs primarily for the bass drops. I like everything else up in my door speakers. I do sometimes like to show off though, which is why I want to get more subs. Feel like I'm working my 10s too hard. I want to get more volume without straining my speakers or getting distortion. Don't have the money to just replace a sub at any time.

  7. I want to expand on my system and would like to try a custom ported box when I decide to purchase everything.

    I'm going to be running 4 RF P3D210s (2010 model;400w RMS 800w peak) on 2 Hifonics Brutus 1200w amps. Could someone help me out with designing a box and give me pros and cons of a ported vs sealed box? Never built a box. Always bought them from shops.

  8. The Hifonics speakers I'm running right now sound 'ok'. I must admit I was disappointed in them after using their amps(which I've had good luck with).

    Yesterday, I crossed a wire somewhere and blew my amp for the highs, so I didn't really have time to tweak my EQ with it. Waiting for that to be shipped and repaired.

    I do have a 3rd unused 2channel amp. Think I should add 2 midbass speakers with it? Under the driver and passenger seat maybe? Trying to avoid fiberglass kick panels.

    Well, here's what I have so far...

    sub: 50hz and below

    mids: 75-3500hz

    tweeters: 3500hz-16000hz

    if I add the mid bass, I move my mid to a highpass filter and EQ it at 200hz+ and throw the midbass on a separate amp with the EQ at 80-200hz? Would I have to have a crossover between my mids and highs or can I just use the EQ?

  9. I'm currently running 2 pairs of hifonics ZRX6.5C (its a component set. 75-16k Hz with an inline crossover at 3.5khz.) running on a hifonics ZRX600.4 amp. I'm wondering if my SQ would improve if I added more speakers. If so, how would I do that with the type of crossover I have and what would I implement in my system? My thought came from a 3-way speaker, except having the tweeter, mid and woofer separated. I'm trying to hear more vocals and guitars in my mix.

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