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ehall8702

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Everything posted by ehall8702

  1. found the sweet spot. 2.5, 52cuin @ 31hz ( i like lower tuning, 35 probably be fine also, same port area is low spec of the calculator i use). on the aak4k @.5 the volume is about as big as id go as it seems the sub is about at the limits of its xmax.
  2. Never did get back to you guys on what happened. I shipped my burnt up amp back to down for sound. They told me two to three weeks they would repair it and send it back. So 2 months pass and I finally call them and say hey what's up with my amp, he says it didn't ship? I will ship you one tomorrow. I told him I didn't want the amp. Had been replaced and I'd like my money back. He says no money back but I can give you a store credit. I spent 4 days looking through their listings only to see that about 40% of it is even in stock and 40% is being generous. I ended up getting a pair of the mini max. One of four channel one a 1500 watt mono for my wife's truck. They didn't question it but they basically forgot about my amp until I decided to call them out on it. I had emailed about a half dozen times asking about a time frame. They had zero reply. I actually had to call about six times during the day to actually get a hold of anybody. They went good on their side but unfortunately I don't believe I'm going to be spending much money with them in the near future.
  3. Like said above CT sounds are solid, budget are the skar rp series ( 2k and up haven't really used andy smaller ones). Another decent amp Ive had is a ppi ice7000.1 , .5 ohm around 3k , still going 5 years later at .5 . The apex audio can 22 and 45 are solid too. If you need your power at 2 ohms , Rockville db16 has been a solid amp for 3 different customers of mine for a few years now. Too many dyno videos on YouTube to pick a bad amp anymore. Personally I'd stay away from full bridge ( taramps, stetsom, even the big namers have em now too) unless you have a VERY solid electrical system tho.
  4. Since maxxsonic took over hifonics ( and many other brands) they are not the same. Most of em don't do rated and are built as cheaply as possible. Pick a model and look it up on YouTube, I'm sure someone has done a dyno and show ya. $250-400 there are many better amps available out there.
  5. Anyone have any experience with these? Seeing how there are many refurbished ones on eBay CHEAP I'd imagine they can't last too long. A 8k 1&2 ohm for $279 with eBay 1 year warrant? Almost willing to get one just to see if it's worth a fugg.
  6. there is tinned welding cable also. ive never needed it , i use temco 3/0 alot, seems to be quite a bit more flexible than most other brands of welding wire too. i use hydraulic crimp tool and lined heat shrink like u suggested and have had alot of the same cable from quite a few years ago and a few builds ago still in great condition and i live where winter lasts more than half the year most years and they use a TON of salt and sand on the roads. have yet to have a lug corrode on me. i use tinned lugs sometimes and other times straight copper, just depends on the deal i can get when i buy a hundred or so. i havent had to do crazy bends with it either tho so maybe a bak in the back with a hug buss bar or something may become a problem. also i run my power wire along my frame under my truck so its ALWAYS in the elements, so i perfer welding cable over car audio as the jacket is FAR superior. Im a life long welder/fabricator and have seen first hand what welding cable can take for abuse, ive seen it get wrapped up in the tracks of a dozer and survive with minimal damage, which is why i chose it to run along my frame. i will have to admit, car audio wire will have finer strands inside which should equate to better amperage transfer and less heat buut thats such a small factor in most cases.
  7. i finally bought a dual alt bracket for my 09 silverado. currently a sinlge 300a ( gonna use the stoc alternator till i save a few bones for another 300a). our trucks come with dual battery plates so its easy to put batteries in. as for wiring i grounded second battery to alternator case and then to primary battery, posotive from second battery to alternator then to primary battery. i have dual runs for both posotive and negative to the back of the truck. also have a negative from each battery to chassis. i finally got quad output terminals for each alternator so now i can make the double runs look good as opposed to kinda just drapped under hood. so basically illhave 4 3/0 from second battery to one alt, then 4 from that alt to other alt and then 4 from that alt to primary battery , then 4 to back of truck and to distro block. probably just keep the single battery grounds to the frame tho. for yours just make sure your second battery terminals get to the other battery basically, how you get there isnt a particular way, as long as they do. you could go from second battery to frame and primary battery to frame also and jump power between the 2 batteries and be fine. some fuse , some dont. i dont, never had an issue if you route them properly. ill take a pic of the temporary wiring i have right now tomorrow if you want.
  8. i run active 3 way with SHCA 6.5s ( 2 per door) a 3.5" SHCA, and a 3.5" ds18 tw120pro in each door. overkill yes but custom speaker pods makes plenty pods for many vehicles, may be an option to beef up the doors vs b pillars speakers. my personal favorites are the pioneer pro 6.5's, take plenty power and can play down to 70hz vs most of the pro audio 6.5s that cant usually play lower than 120hz. the SHCA ones i have now sound good, the 3.5 kinda harsh but have a dsp coming with more EQ than my avh-600ex has so should be able to tone em down some. this was the pioneers, finally one of them sucked a piece of the cone into the door so took a chance on the SHCA , not too mad about em but shoulda went with more of the pioneer i think.
  9. so i bought a CAB45V2 , havent mounted it or even hooked it up yet, havent had any time. on side note, the burnt up jp23 got returned to D4S friday, awaiting decision. i forewarned them i had already bought a replacement amp and if i had to pay for ANYTHING as far as repair or shipping i wasnt going to waste my time sending it back and i would cease to support thier business anymore ( as of the last few months ive spent about $2k with D4S, i know its not much but ive def recomended thier products to customers and spent my share of my personal cash with em) . My main arguement was even wired at .5 ohm it did not go into protect, didnt shut down, just smoked and flamed out. i scratched it pretty good removing it from my truck WHILE on fire inside so i didnt catch my truck on fire....last resort would have been fire extinguisher as they may a very nasty mess that i tried to avoid. will update with thier decision and have a shiny new jp23v2 for sale most likely.
  10. This is the owners manual. Can't find ALOT of info but looks like they like small boxes
  11. Yeah 2-2.5 is HUGE for a single 10 lol. That's what the old 12s liked but never had the 10" version
  12. I've owned quite a few xfl 12s They like 2.25-2.5 cubes, think spec is 2 cubes for the 12. How much power do you plan on putting to the 10"? What do you listen to mostly? If it's decaf and rebassed stuff def 32hz or lower If daily just music with bass you can tune 35ish and still play low but don't really lose output on normal music. I'm sure @Joe X will have a better recommendation, he's the enclosure guy.
  13. Think I'm just gonna grab a cab45v2. Enuff power for what I need at 2ohms. Just back to figuring out where to mount the damn thing. The JP was small enuff it went nicely behind my seat. Trying to keep underseat open as I'd like to put a storage box under it. May not happen. Now my minds on a custom center console to keep a full back seat. Extended cab trucks are a PITA for decent bass if you wanna keep the back seat at least.
  14. Think I'm just gonna grab a cab45v2. Enuff power for what I need at 2ohms. Just back to figuring out where to mount the damn thing. The JP was small enuff it went nicely behind my seat. Trying to keep underseat open as I'd like to put a storage box under it. May not happen. Now my minds on a custom center console to keep a full back seat. Extended cab trucks are a PITA for decent bass if you wanna keep the back seat at least.
  15. and a $450 price tag rite now dont think ill find anything that will come close to this one. 90 day warranty and available all inclusive 2 year warranty for another $80
  16. ehall8702

    cab 45 v2

    believe this is my next amp. watching dynos at .5 ohm low volts seems a well built amp. fortunantly will put out eniff power at 2 ohms to make me happy with my d1 12. anyone here running this amp? anything i should be aware of? only difference between the v1 and v2 is supposed to be strappable without an external module now.
  17. 2.25 cubes @ 32hz think was 40ish cuin port area. its whatever a Death Penalty r6 12 wanted. was a quick box for the DP to see how it sounded , ended up going a bit bigger and alot more port area which is why this box was unfinished and sitting around.
  18. the md8k DID NOT blow, the 3 15s literally knocked the filter caps off the board! next to no hot glue reinforcing the components so vibration took it out. was less than a month before warranty was up and they drug thier feet about getting back to me so warranty never happened. any shop that would fix it was 3+ months out so chucked it into the garbage. the rp4500 that replaced ( @ .66) it ran for over a year and sold and still going on .5 ohm today. All my buddies get my hand me downs when i upgrade or change my mind. i got the d1 bc the jp23v1.5 was happy at .5 ohm. dont wanna give up more room than a single 12 in my pickup any more. figured if the v1.5 could take .5 ohm for almost a year than the newer v2 ( with a .5 ohm warranty) would be fine and net me another 500+ watts. any person would assume that im sure, i cant be a total dumbass, ill just attribute it to my garbage ass luck.
  19. All ya had to do was go to their site and look lol. My component selection has been fine for the last almost 30 years of car audio installation. i just push my own stuff hard bc, well its mine i guess. and i do have shit luck, which is why I'm not confident a taramps , mounted behind a rear seat, not easily accessible is a good idea. i have full coverage but really don't want to see my truck burn to the ground bc i cheaped out on an amp. I do alot of research before i buy stuff, still manage to get shit on once in a while tho. QC is garbage on EVERYTHING now days. last 2 out of 10 engines i have built in the last 3 months have had bad lifters straight out of the box from 2 different reputable manufacturers and those are roller lifters in LS engines. There isnt enuff cashin the world for me to build a flat tappet engine with parts as shitty as they are. ive decided there is NO way ill buy another full bridge, especially a Taramps. Ill drop the coin and get something thatll put down the power i want at 2ohms and just sell the JP to someone when/if it gets fixed . If they don't fix it ill toss it in the scrap metal bin. Down4Sound JP23 V2 BLUE - 2800W RMS Amplifier - Down4Sound Shop first check box is 2 year .5 ohm warranty for $79.99
  20. Mine never even went into protect, just stopped playing and instant smell. I assumed rise woulda put it up easily over 1ohm quickly so wasn't too worried about wiring .5 as it wasn't a real load. Guess I was wrong, hope they do go good for it or credit or something. A lotta of cash to just eat for 10 minutes of play. Also didn't see that video either, maybe woulda went a different way. As for my last taramps, I literally knocked caps and stuff off the board with it mounted on Baltic birch bolted to the floorboard of truck about a foot away from the subs. Was wired at 2.66 on a 2 ohm version of a md8k. Don't really like the sound of the fullbridge vs Korean or even Chinese/Korean boards. Just doesn't seem to have as much authority in low 30s and down, maybe the new bass line ones are better but I'm hesitant to spend $400+ to find out when I know for that price I can get something I know will sound like I want. As for a stand in at $200 tho that's not a big deal, I'd have use for the hd in a buddies truck when I either get mine back or find what I want . He needs about 2k in a small footprint, standard cab pickup with 4 vfl 6.5s , box takes almost every possible space except port side clearance to cab corner.
  21. i had 4 soundqubed hds2.1 8s on a ppi ice 7000.1 at .5 ohm, pretty big box but they played nicely down in the low 30s , was tuned at 32hz subsonic at 27hz. i was very impressed, sold em my buddy still runs em years later. they got pushed very hard and took ALOT to get em stinky.
  22. They sell a .5 warranty on the V2, so it is .5 stable Also if I grabbed the hd3000 2 ohm I'd wire to 2 ohms. The v1.5 was .5 stable also, I sold that and "upgraded" to the V2 or so I thought. Just need an in between amp till they go good for the V2 . The v1.5 was running the avatar for a month but was powering a pair of xrs at .5 ohm for close to 8 months with zero issues.
  23. So got my new jp23v2. Got about 10 minutes at .5 ohms and let magic smoke out. Brand new amp. Waiting on warranty stuff, need a full in amp. Can grab a new hd3000 2 ohm version for $200. I'm scared of taramps after my md8k but $200 for 3k??? Is it safe enuff to power my Avatar stu 12 d1? Electrical is up to par, dual runs of 3/0 temco,2 vmax agms , 300a alt. See the banda 5k 2ohms also for not much more. Scared shitless of the full bridge stuff , but man u can't beat the price to watt ratio. What y'all think as a stand in amp would the banda Electra 5k, hd3000, or the ds18 5k full bridge?
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