Jump to content


18+ All Access!
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by jack

  1. are you expecting db gains from that maxxlink ?...

    or just trying to control all 4 amps with 1 knob.?

    i have always wanted to try them :)

    if i remember right when i had mine the advantages was a single control over multiple amps and as for the line driver side of it i think it could do up to 10volts per amp output......much better than the 2-5volts most decks do. but that will only benefit you if the amp can take that much without clipping. so there is a potential for gains, but sieng that its already a beautifal 160 vehical, those gains might only be in tenths.

  2. sorry for lack of updates. got the new subs they are level4xl d1 with carbon caps. and a 5K to run them

    wasnt hapy with the sound quality of the port firing front so i am back to the drawing board to find the right length out back. DID not want to do this. it sacrifices little space i have and torments the hatch integrity.



    pic of amp in place


    location of the 3sixty.2 knob and the bass knob for the dc amp... i do plan on getting them to match


  3. I need the tech bulliton on doing the resistor modifiction on the window module. once upon a time i had this direct tech and never needed to use it. now i need it for a friend of mine to try to solve a window issue, and cant gain access to dei tech support since i am no longer working for the certified shop i was employed at. please if someone has it can they cut and paste it for me, the link to dei dont work if you dont have a current password etc.

  4. selling a used dc audio level 4xl 10 inch sub dual 2ohm. broke it in a year ago and then it sat for a year unused. it has a silver dc logo cap. asking $275


    also a box built specifically for a 350z, for 2 tens. the xl will fit, (what it was built for) 2.4 gross volume. built with imported 11ply baltic birch all corners radiused, glass reinforced, flush mount front, 4inch port fires front straight under the strut tower asking$300





    i will not ship this stuff

  5. this is where the hazard button used to be,(titnted plexi helps with the sun bleach and the night glare) the button will be relocated to a different hidden spot


    this is a pic of the blue volt gauge that i raped from a fuse holder


    pre pic of the front of the box with a sub mocked up in location and a dummy sub to seal the hole. I originally built the box for a 6 inch aero but no-go. so i blended a 4" with the 6 so not to redo the glass.....and the vinyl on the box has to be redone. glue i first used came loose


  6. ive been gone for a while, just no motivation to start over. had plans for this car over 2 yrs ago but do to an injury i could not build. well i finally am geting around to it. it will fail in comparison to my other vehicals. but i am doing this one for me. not to compete, but also to just look clean.... plan of attack, remove all the useless crap behind the seats. buils pods for rear 6.5, build amp rack, build enclosure for 8" mids, wrap all in vinyl, build glass enclosure for a pair of 10's, add battery to rear, digital volt meter in dash somewhere, try to get it all to flow with the lines of the car.

  7. x2 on not using liqiud nails. no need. if you use the woodglue right it will bond the wood. finish nails work for a low pressure box but i would sugest coarse thread screws for anything with smoe power behind it. resin is a plus but not a must. but 100% silicone to seal all the joints after it is glued. on a side note. DO NOT fire up the subs till all is dried. sparks and fumes are bad!

  • Create New...