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Found 6 results

  1. -Resistance is NOT Impedance. -Volts * Amps does NOT equal Watts in AC land -You can NOT use an AC voltmeter and AC current meter to get true power unless you are powering a resistor and are using a scope or clipping detection device. I don't care what your friend the "electrician" said. -You can NOT use a DMM to measure impedance -Clipping is NOT DC -There is NO SUCH THING as Watts RMS (though we use it in audio) -WTH is "Box Rise" -The word "subsonic" to describe low frequency audio is TOTALLY incorrect -CCA wire is NOT OK -Class D is not better, it's cheaper WTH is Class D? D'Amore Engineering will be launching a FREE education section on it's website in the next few days. There will be a series of videos and demonstrations to prove all of the above statements and more. This sport is more full of bad information than the gossip mags at the checkout stand. Something needs to be done. This bad information continues to get passed on, and our hobby continues to be degraded. I'm still paying on my student loans, but it doesn't mean you have to. Stop by www.DAmoreEngineering.com soon, watch some vids, buy a t-shirt.
  2. Tony Candela of CE Auto Electric Supply, Juan Rodriguez and I decided to do some testing with the AD-1 Amplifier Dyno to see what effects adding a capacitor to your system does. We did over 60 Dyno pulls with a Rockford T2500-1bdcp, without a capacitor, with a 1 Farad electrolytic capacitor (a real 1 F), and a 100 Farad carbon supercap. Test vehicle is a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 5.7 Hemi, 180 amp alternator, single group 49 AGM battery, all wiring 1/0 AWG copper. We tested each possible combination 3 times just to make sure our numbers were consistent, which they were. Video part 1 is continuous power testing, video 2 is dynamic burst power testing. Enjoy!!! Video part 1= Continuous power testing (uncertified dyno test mode). We do 4, 2 and 1 ohm dyno runs with no cap, 1 F cap, and 100 F cap. All tests in this video were made using the Uncertified Dyno Mode which is a continuous sine wave. We test a Rockford T2500-1bdcp in car, with no added capacitors, then with a 1 Farad aluminum electrolytic capacitor added, and then with a 100 Farad carbon supercapacitor added. RESULTS: No Capacitor: 1499 Watts RMS @ 13.07V into 4 ohms 2059 Watts RMS @ 11.84V into 2 ohms 2366 Watts RMS @ 10.83V into 1 ohm With 1 Farad Capacitor: 1489 Watts RMS @ 13.10V into 4 ohms 2024 Watts RMS @ 11.90V into 2 ohms 2358 Watts RMS @ 10.87V into 1 ohm With 100 Farad carbon supercapacitor: 1531 Watts RMS @ 13.13V into 4 ohms 2208 Watts RMS @ 12.25V into 2 ohms 2606 Watts RMS @ 11.30V into 1 ohm Engine RPM held between 2200-2500 for all tests. 1F capacitor didn't add any power on the continuous RMS test, actually lost a few watts probably due to the increased number of wire connections. 100F capacitor added more than 10% more power on the continuous RMS test Make sure to watch part 2, dynamic power testing (burst power). Hint: The results are different! --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Video part 2= Dynamic burst testing (Dynamic Power Dyno Mode). We do 4, 2 and 1 ohm dyno runs with no cap, 1 F cap, and 100F cap. All tests in this video were made using the Dynamic Power (Burst) Dyno mode which is representative of musical peaks. We test a Rockford T2500-1bdcp in car, with no added capacitors, then with a 1 Farad aluminum electrolytic capacitor added, and then with a 100 Farad carbon supercapacitor added. RESULTS: No Capacitor: 1543 Watts RMS @ 13.80V into 4 ohms 2550 Watts RMS @ 13.32V into 2 ohms 3154 Watts RMS @ 12.76V into 1 ohm With 1 Farad Capacitor: 1613 Watts RMS @ 13.98V into 4 ohms 2666 Watts RMS @ 13.60V into 2 ohms 3426 Watts RMS @ 13.35V into 1 ohm With 100 Farad carbon supercapacitor: 1620 Watts RMS @ 13.95V into 4 ohms 2616 Watts RMS @ 13.65V into 2 ohms 3260 Watts RMS @ 12.91V into 1 ohm Engine RPM held between 2200-2500 for all tests. 1F capacitor didn't add any power on the continuous RMS test, but it OWNED the Dynamic Burst testing!! 100F capacitor added more than 10% more power on the continuous RMS test, but less than 5% on the dynamic burst test.
  3. We've got the AD-1 Amp Dyno very close to production trim. Here are a couple of demo videos showing some of it's capabilities. Currently the AD-1 Amplifier Dyno is the only self contained test system that can measure RMS Continuous Power and Dynamic Power of both Full Range and Bandwidth Limited (subwoofer) Amplifiers in the world....and it does it in YOUR CAR! Please enjoy these two videos. The first video demonstrates the gain setting capability of the newly developed DD-1+ technology built into the AD-1. DD-1+ allow the user to make variable gain overlap settings in 1dB increments, even if the system is dirty and reads over 1% Distortion BEFORE clipping. The AD-1 amp dyno's DD-1+ technology can also be used in EXACTLY the same manner as the classic DD-1 if the user chooses. Link below The second video demonstrates the dyno loading and precision power measurement technologies in the AD-1 Amplifier Dyno. Learn about Certified Dyno Mode (which the Jeep's system failed due to headunit's noisy output), Uncertified Dyno Mode (which is the backup in the event you run into a problem like we did), and Dynamic Power Mode which measures power output during a very short term "bursted" signal. This is the industry standard for measuring "Dynamic Power" or "Headroom". Link below
  4. The D'Amore Engineering AF subwoofer line is shipping now! Just in time for the holiday. We are running Black Friday Week starting tonight at 8pm. These are single 4 ohm coil, LOW Bass in a small enclosure, very low distortion, VERY musical subwoofers. The coils are around 3.5 ohms making them great for a single woofer on a single Class A/B amp bridged, or a 3 or 4 subwoofer system on a 1 ohm stable mono amplifier. EVERY single one of these is fully tested before they leave here and come with the ACTUAL T/S parameters for that specific woofer!!! An industry first? Take a look at them here: http://www.damoreengineering.com/subwoofers.html For the sale, here is what we are doing: Buy 1, get 1 at 50% off Buy 2, get 1 free!
  5. Just a quick video to demonstrate one more use of the IM-SG. Everyday it seems we find something around here that the IM-SG is useful for. Also, a new product from D'Amore Engineering in video! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=844mCPYfKLE
  6. So a few weekends ago, Juan and I drove his Altima over to CE Auto Electric Supply to install a Big 3 kit on his car. It is a 2010 Nissan Altima 3.5SR, stock electrical system (160A alternator), with (1) Rockford T1500-1bd loaded at 1 ohm, and (2) Rockford T600-2 amplifiers loaded at 4 ohms stereo. The T600-2s are modified to put out max power at 4 ohms and do around 325W/ch at 4 ohms. In total, around 2800W. <Rant mode on> Yes it is a capital "W", named after James Watt. Also, I didn't put "W RMS" as there is no such thing. <Rant mode off> We tested the battery and found it to be weak (the Nissan dealer tested it and said it was fine 2 days prior). So first things first, we swapped out the battery for a new glass mat type. The reason for doing this was because during loud transients the lights would dim, and the CVT transmission would also trip out and make the car jerk. After the new battery was installed the problems were less, but still existed. So then we installed a run of 1/0 AWG to factory run of wire from alternator output to battery +. Then 1/0 AWG was added from alternator case to chassis of vehicle. Also, 1/0 AWG was added from chassis of vehicle to battery -. The results were fantastic, no more dimming, and the transmission behaves at it should now. See the before and after videos below which illustrate the voltage dropping problem reduced drastically. Before the upgrades: From 36 seconds to end After the upgrades: Two things can be noticed immediately. 1. The resting voltage is now 14.3V whereas it used to be 14.0V. The minimum voltage hit was 12.2V whereas it used to be 11.3V. To put a little math to it: 12.2V / 11.3V = 8% voltage gain. Since Watts is proportional to Volts squared we now have 17% gain in wattage AND the lights are no longer dimming Winning
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