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Found 112 results

  1. I have recently just purchased a Rockford Fosgate P3 12" inch sub. I want to build a box but not really sure if it's best to stay within the manufactures recommended dimensions of .75 to 1.25 for a sealed box. And then the subject of what provides better sound, from a box thats taller than long, or longer than tall. Then the subject of facing the sub towards the back seat or out into the trunk. Can some one help me out? I'm very knowledgeable to car audio, just not at going beyond manufacturers recommended volume and trunks.
  2. Proud little moment

    I know it's really not a big deal in the grand scheme of things but I was a little proud of my year in MECA. It was my first year as a member and my first year competing in any organization. I started out at a 147.9 @ the headrest and ended at a 151.0 @ the end of the season at the headrest. On the hottest day of the year it only did a 150.5 legal and second hottest day it did a 150.8. In the evening, it does anywhere from a 151-151.5 depending on HOW hot it is in the AZ nights. This is the reason I'm posting this thread: Not only did I win my class in SPL for the year, I guess I won Park and Pound too. The other kind of cool thing is, I qualified for Nationals in Alabama(I didn't go) with the points I gathered throughout the year. I can't wait to get in the lanes next year with an even louder(hopefully) build.
  3. In Stock And Ready To Go, Now Whos ready to GET LOUD!!
  4. Audiopipe TXX-BD3 12 (2)

  5. Went out to my first comp today. The highest I hit was 139.9 on a 34 hz burp. I think there might have been some major flaws in my box design looking for suggestions for another box. I am not opposed to any suggestions at this point but due to trunk size the sub will have to face upward. Just looking to get a little louder. Setup 05 Chevy Malibu 1 18 FI SP4 DC Audio 2k A3 (2000rms) Sky High Big three (2/0) OFC Sky High (1/0) OFC ran to back XS D3400 (starting) XP3000 (Rear) Box (3/4 MDF) Exterior Height 15in, Width 38in, Depth 30in Port 34hz (opening facing inside cabin on bottom of box) Height 2in, Width 36.5 in, Length 18 in The top (sub holding side) was braced with another sheet of mdf 36.5 x 28.50 The port side was also braced the same way The port itself had 2 3/4 x 3 in mdf "leg" supports in the rear When I first played it I had about 1-3 inches of flex on bottom of the box which I was able to reduce by putting in multiple 3 inch lag bolts.
  6. This will be a slow build to start. But once all the products are in the build show go pretty smoothly.
  7. No vs threads
  8. Summary: 08 Silverado, ext cab, 5.3L. Walled off with seats in comfortable positions (not straight up and down like some dedicated walls). This will be a daily driver still. I don't want a system that ONLY hits low end, I dont listen to purely boosted music, i want a system that can do well on a variety of music. Basically a system any passenger can throw on their phone on the aux and listen to what they want and sound good and loud. Goals for System: I have a few goals, anything above that is a plus. * Very musical like from 27hz to 50 hz or so * Crazy Hair-tricks * Nasty lows that you hear from blocks away * 153s Amps: Either of the following combinations (help me decide) looking to stay below 2 grand for amps (mind you these numbers arent including any rises, these are the top of the spectrum at absolutely max power, voltage and unlikely circumstance but why not account for these anyways ) * B2M1u - Running at 0.5Ω daily & burping (4950w @ 14.4v per sub theorycrafting) $2000 * Two Crescendo5500 - Running at 1Ω daily & Burping (2900w @ 13.8v per sub theorycrafting) $2000 * Two SoundQubed3500 - 8600w @ 14.4v - running at 1Ω daily & 0.25Ω burping (2150w @ 14.4 daily & 7000w @ 14.4v burping per sub theorycrafting) $1200 Subs: Four SoundQubed HDC4-15s Charging System: Triple Alt bracket, stock alt for regular electrical and two 300+Amp alts for audio system. (recommendations on alts for this system?) also will probably run ext regulated so I can run a 16v audio electrical More details on Electrical: All electrical will be in a waterproof toolbox in the back of the bed under a soft top. Hole cut in the bottom or back to allow access for wires into cab. * 6 banks of 8 caps per bank. (maybe more banks) * 2 runs of 1/0 for power off each alt to rear * Dual inputs on both amps for 4 runs total of both power and ground * Alternator grounds going straight to strut mount brace for a vehicle grounding. * All grounds in rear from cap bank/amps going straight to frame Fusing: * All 4 runs off alternators being fused in back before connecting to cap banks. * Fuse between cap banks and amps * Any other places I'm forgetting? Random Details: I would like to leave about 1/4 to 1/3 of the toolbox free for actual storage for like a bag of fuses, drill, and other random tools for comps. I dont have toolbox yet but will get one that fits under the soft top and leaves enough room for me to load my motorcycle up with the tailgate down. So all in all does this sound like its pretty well planned out or is there some major changes i need to make? Heres my truck in all her glory
  9. dual 2 ohm voice coil wireing

    Hello everyone. I want to ask how can i connect my dual 2ohm voice coil woofer to amp mcHammer vulcane 2400? Can i use two channels of amp?
  10. I have a 02 ford ranger. I have 10 grand to spend on the audio alone. I have designed and built many 150-154 decibel systems (all of them hit over 150 between 27-33hz) but never anything near 160 on music. Weeks of searching on the magical google as left me clueless on how to get my truck to a 160 without throwing 12 18s into a sealed wall. I am not sure if it would be possible to hit 160 decibels around 30-40hz on my price range being I love decaf and chopped and screwed music but I am willing to do anything to get as close as possible. My max dimensions is 70x40x35. All extra oddly shaped room around it I was planning to fill with 2x4s, plywood, and sand. This is leaving 15 inches in the very back for amps and batteries. This truck is getting an 8 inch lift and will have room under the truck worst case scenario for more batteries although i would really like to avoid that. I have a few ideas but am open to anything. I really like the psi platform subs for their customizibility when ordered and extremely high xmax. The smaller subs all have a 54mm xmax. The 18s with an extended voice coil as well as bigger spiders have a 76mm xmax. I was thinking wall it by the front seats. Put 2 platform 3 18s in there. Give the subs maybe 10 cubes each and have the rest be the biggest port possible. Front baffle being 6 layers thick as well as the back and have the entire inside of the box rounded out towards the port. Another idea was to put 2 platform 3 18s in either a 4th or a 6th order tuned between 25-40hz. Giving it maybe 15-20 cubes each. Remember I will be adding wood till it hits the edges of the vehicle and then filling any small gaps to the brim with sand mixed with resin to keep the box as strong as possible as well as forcing the sound to only be able to travel to the cab instead of out the roof or floor. Anything for extra dbs. We could also do a horn system if anyone knows how to tune that. Have a wall or something in the back and just a massive horn leading to the front. Never done any horn systems before so no clue what works and what doesnt but I have seen a couple full car horn systems that sounded really good on music and was over 150 decibels. What do you guys think? I currently have a 240amp mechman laying around. Thinking maybe use that for mids/highs and to replace the stock charging system and find a way to squeeze 2 340 amp alts in with it for the big subs. Everything needs to be completely redone. Main thing is I cant think of any ways to get too power crazy here being we only got 10 grand to spend so Im looking for extreme enclosure efficiency and any possible way to gain some extra dbs. I would like the mids and highs to keep up with the bass as well. Im looking for a 40.60 to a 50.50 ratio of mids/highs to bass.
  11. I have a PowerBass 3XL 15 in a 4.4 cube box tuned at 31Hz, sub up, port back. Up until today, I had two, 4" aero ports and while the higher bass sounded good, my lows were suffering horribly. When I used the calculator and entered my driver size, Xmax and tuning frequency, it recommended 7.45" minimum diameter and 43.56" of port area. The two 4's were only like 25" of port area, so I decided to go with one, 8" port at the same 31Hz, giving me 50" of port area, all much closer to what's recommended. The high bass basically sounds the same, maybe a tiny bit of output loss.... The low bass however, seems to move more air than sound! I can put my ear to the port playing a 30Hz frequency and it sounds like nothing but air to me.... I put my head to the window and my hair is blowing in the breeze, yet I don't hear much in the way of low frequency SOUND. Hard to explain any other way, so I hope everyone gets what I am saying lol. What could be wrong here? Port is about 6" from the hatch. Inner metal, outer metal and plastic paneling is all deadened with 50 mil. GT Mat, yet I still get rattles from all the air movement. The only other thing I changed besides the port size, is I inverted the sub for more air space. I would think this would yield more output, not less? Any input is appreciated, as I just tore apart a really nice looking box, for no output gain what so ever
  12. Changing my amps?

    My current system is: 2x Alpine MRP-M500 500W RMS @ 2ohms Each mono runs a Rockford Fosgate punch P3 DVC P3D412, which are 500RMS and peak at 1000 So I can always hit the RMS, but never go higher that that (in theory?). For the longest time I always thought Peak was a junk number that didnt matter but RMS was all you needed to worry about, then I think I learned that it actually has some meaning but RMS is more important? Mids and Highs: Alpine MRP-F300 Which I was going to bridge to my tweets (yeah 300W to my tweets) Alpine MRP-F550 Which was bridged to my mids. Originally I was under the impression that no one ran rears? I got rear ended my amp rack broke and my fronts got blown (I was sitting still and she was going 40+) Her insurance is paying for the repairs, with that money plus my own added funds I have this: So after looking around researching and talking I came up with this for a replacement. Rears: Infinity Kappa 693.11i 6x9's (run in parallel @ 2ohms) Fronts: Infinity Kappa 60.11cs 6 1/2's (run in parallel @ 2ohms) 4Channel: Hifonics ZRX2000.4 4 Channel running fronts and rears @ 500W RMS x 4 @ 2 Ohms (Those drivers are stable at 2 ohms, the competitors in the class were only 4-ohm stable. For the subs, same Rockford's 500 Watts RMS 1000 Watts Max I'm looking to run them both @1 ohm off a single amp. They are Dual 4-ohm, so obviously they run at 2 with the voice coils in parallel, so if I run them both off the same amp it'll be a 2ohm load. (I think) I'm looking at the Hifonics BRX2000.1D to do that, and before you say "Ew Hifonics?" This series is actually CEA-2006 Compliant As far as replacing my 4 channel I was looking at the Hifonics 2000W RMS, I listed above because it is 2 ohm stable at 500 x 4. However that series is not CEA-2006 compliant. Which may or may not be a big deal. I'd like to be around 2000W RMS total. I think that's the right thing? I'm running 2 channels to the front, one to each crossover, and 2 channels to the back one to each 6x9. I specifically picked all 2 ohm speakers, if I run them in parallel that will drop me to one ohm? If I run them in series then I'm up to 4 ohms? The amp I mentioned before is 500W RMS x 4 @ 2 Ohms, 250W RMS x 4 @ 4 Ohms. Is there a better amp for around the same price range ($200-$300), I know that's not a lot, I recently learned that you don't need the big names if you know where to look (My former/current system is all Alpine and Rockford Subs).
  13. Thought I would share my personal build. Mainly built for Mwspl adv2 and xtrm 3. Soon i'll be testing some woofers in here to see what ends up being loudest. Custom Z4s and NSV3s first. The whole stack goes between 2 builds + 12 more sheets. Starting the shell: Finished up with sides, the top is 3 layers but the second is brought back a few inches for clearances: Start of the back wall, stacked 10" thick: Here i start and finish up the baffles and get to where I am now with finishing the front port. I took about a week to get to the front port when a new project came up that i will share in another thread!
  14. This is a build we are doing for iasca, ispll, and mwspl. Two custom z4 18s, and one of pipo's old team cactus 5ks! I'll get pics of the back plate at a later time. For finals we will be using a NS1v2 for now. Car is a 97 geo metro! I'll start with the woofer build! I've only got pics of 1 of 2 lol. Here is the start of the wall and where we got today on it.
  15. Selling my Term Lab since i wont be needing it for awhile and im getting money together for a down payment. I bought it brand new and barely use it. $475 Shipped
  16. Windows Up VS Windows Down

    First off, I'm nowhere near loud enough for this to affect me, but it's something I'd love to learn about. I'll just throw out a list of questions, feel free to answer any you can or expand on different topics as well. Why are some vehicles louder with the windows down/door open (scientific explanation would be awesome!)? Approximately what spl level does this start to make a difference? Does the type of box make a difference? Are some better with up vs some with down? What type of vehicles are better up/down? Which competitions/formats require windows up/down? Feel free to expand upon anything, I'm mostly interested in the theory of why windows down can sometimes be louder and what factors make this happen.
  17. Hey guys so im planning on going to a show in July and I want to compete in the Outlaw SPL event which will be my first event. The only problem is im having trouble in understanding what class I would be in so I can register. My system specs are in the description and the system runs at 14.4v.
  18. Registration at 6pm. Comp from 7pm till 1030pm, "Frequency War! Date: June 7th 2014 Time: 6p registeration/7pm sound off! Location: Superior Racing Development parking lot Address: 1980 E. 5th St. suite 101. Tempe, Az Bring your A game!"
  19. Just wanted to give a heads up that there is a show on July 25-27 in Myrtle Beach Speedway. Heres the link: http://www.nopinationals.com/ The event is a USACi double points event.
  20. Ran across this website today and wondered if anyone knew how their amplifiers perform? Subs as well? Has anyone heard of this company or used their products? Curious to know if they are legit... The 8" sub looks fairly promising. Looking to build my first 4th order for my Camry and I'm either going with 8's or 10's, until I get the hang of it. Then stepping up to a big build... http://www.purecaraudio.net/pure-audio-pa3000-4/
  21. A friend of mine I am doing an install for a SA-15 keeps mentioning how he was hitting 40's with his single SA-15 on 1000wrms.I just kept saying okay and shrugging it off. He sent me this video today saying this is how loud he wants his. The guy doesnt mention where the mic is in the video but i was just wondering what yall thought.
  22. Hey guys its been way to cold to do anything. Quick question 3 to 1 ratio over 2 to 1 ? just looking for opinions....trying for pure spl thanks again.
  23. So I've been lurking the site for awhile and really like what everyone's got going on with their systems, so I decided to throw together a bullshit little budget build. Everything cost me roughly $500 and I threw it together in my spare time, and I really don't have much of that, working 16 hours a day, 6 days a week is a real kick in the ass. I still have a lot left to do, gotta relocate the amp, seal off the trunk and upgrade and re-run the wires and all that fun stuff, so if you want to flame, feel free, doesn't phase me at all, it just states your ignorance and you think being an e-thug is really cool. And if you want to offer advice, I'm all ears. So here it is: HU - JVC KD-R810 Subs - 2 10" Pioneer Premier Championship Pro's Amp - Hifonics Brutus BRZ1200 Box is around 4 cubic feet, tuned to 42hz This was just a test run of the subs in my old boxes... Don't mind the squeaking, the terminal cup in the bare box was missing screws...
  24. KMS Event (Eastcoast)

    This is an event that is located in South Carolina Lancaster if anyone is interested. All your Car Stereo & Automotive Needs! KMS AUTO REPAIR CENTER 376 LANCASTER BY-PASS EAST LANCASTER SC 29720 Steve 803-320-3193 Call or Text Email is [email protected] www.KossMotorSports.com Join us for our FREE Monthly SPL Challenge Series, Car Show, Car Meet and Burn Out Contest! KMS is your source for all your Car Stereo needs. We are the areas only authorized Kicker dealer. We carry many other lines including Rockford Fosgate, JVC, Pioneer, SSL, Planet Audio, Power Bass and much much more. We can special order for all major brands you like. KMS has the experience to take you car audio to the next level. KMS has a strong Competition past and over 30 years of car audio competition winning systems. Dates: May 10th Saturday 5PM till 10PM June 8th Sunday 1PM to 6PM July 12th Saturday 5PM till 10PM August 9th Saturday 5PM till 10PM September 13th Saturday 5PM till 10PM October 12th Sunday 1PM to 6PM November 8th Saturday 5PM till 10PM CASH PAY OUT FINALS DECEMBER 6TH Saturday 1PM to ???? 2014 True SPL Series Challenge monthly at the shop! Where we test out your system, DB is proven with our Term Lab system.
  25. So guys, something has been brought to my attention. The build I'm gonna be working on is pretty much copying off of "Altima1" on here's build. Anyway, he has over 250sqft of Deadener in his Altima. But also mentioned that he had quite a deal of Luxury Liner Pro by second skin, installed in the trunk and Roof to further dampen the vibrations for his loud Low-End Bass (26-30hz range usually). - Is the Luxury Liner / Any type of Liner material necessary for a Loud Low End build?? Is 2 Layers of Sound Deadener on the metal not enough? I'm using one layer of Second Skin's Alpha Damp for the first layer. Havn't figured out the 2nd yet, probably Second Skin Damplifier. But with those 2 Deadeners combined throughout my vehicle, shouldnt the Low end come through pretty well? Its gonna be a Sealed Off 15 from the Trunk. - Anyone with good knowledge on Sound Dampening is there any advice you could give? - Thanks!