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Found 121 results

  1. Drew Mercer

    Quest for 150db

    I'm currently running two dd 712s on a soundstream t1.4000DL with skyhigh 2/0 amp kits as well as a DC 270a alt. I'm currently metering 143.7 and would like to know what my best course of action is to get as close to or go over 150dB as I can. Any tips or pointers would be greatly appreciated
  2. Fairly nooby to car audio, and I searched the forum but couldn't find anything on this. What differentiates a SPL sub, to a SQ Sub? Meaning - what makes a sub one or the other? OR a hybrid? I currently have a beginner audio system in my trunk car and am told my Alpine Type S is an SQ sub. Judging by the size of the motor/cone design I'd tend to agree as it's only rated at 500wrms. What characteristics should you look for to differentiate the two? Thanks
  3. http://www.emfcaraudio.com/blog/emf-summer-nationals-2016/
  4. Carpeted box vs painted box for better spl?
  5. I merged 2 threads and things got a little screwed up lol So I added Johns first post to his right here : This is the official thread for the Tahoe build off we hope you enjoy these builds as much as we do! So we are doing a little friendly competition between Sky High and DC Audio. A few things fell into place and we ended up having GM SUVS dropped off at the same time so we decided to make some fun out of it. Rusty, his team, and DC Audios build will consist of the DC Audio Yukon 4 M1 LVL 6 18s with the aluminum baskets. 4 DC Audio 5Ks and a B pillar wall; just to name a few things. The Sky High's Tahoe will have 6 Lvl 6 m2 18s with aluminum cone and 4 DC 10ks in a B pillar wall. Rusty and I (Jon) will be both posting pics along the road to crushing every other Tahoe on the west coast. DC Audio and Sky High have a pretty good and close knit relationship if you guys did not know. This is a friendly build and we are only out to have fun and get some recognition out there for the amazing products going into the builds. So please enjoy the builds and your input is greatly appreciated. See you at Lake County Car Audio with both these builds for the finale!! And Mine starts here - So Alot of you might remember the DC Yukon, Well its at the shop and were going to wall it. Not 100% sure what the plan is but for right now I just removed everything so i can start to measure out the shell. its got for gear (well before I took it all out) (2) 175.4 (4) 5.0 (4) M1 Lv6's (2) Alts (2) Strong Stinger 2150's, The rest of the 2150s are dead and will need to be replaced. The Yukon sat for a while and the battery's are now toast So Im not sure if it will go flat wall, clam shell, 4th order, 6th order. Part of it will depend on the square footage we end up with. On with pics of my progress today
  6. Working on my SPL wall build, currently playing with the box internals and have been reading up on things. I have been working with SPL setups for about a year now and still have lots to learn. My question is what are are non-pressure and pressure points in a box/wall and how do I find them. Also, is it truly beneficial to put for 45's/roundovers in them or to kep them square? Currently working with 2 Soundqubed HDC3 18's on a DC 3.5K in my 2 door Jeep. Have not clamped it yet. Does 156.7db @ 51hz at the moment pretty consistently.
  7. almost walled 350z 1 DC audio 3.5k 2x DC audio level 4 m2 15" Box tuned to 32 HZ 3x runs 0 gauge deck pioneer 4100 3x Alpine type R 6.5 components EQ/line driver > phoenix gold eq215x other amps 2x old alpine mrv f300 v12 amps 1 new apline pdx f4 1 classic phonenix gold MS2250 special edition 2x xs power D3400 cut cut
  8. A little word of me - I am a 19-year-old basshead from Bulgaria. I've been following SMD for at least 2 or 3 years, but I decided to register last year. My main hobby is car audio, but i like computers, electronics and other stuff. I'm studying International Economic Relations at the moment - it's my first year at university. I work on the car whenever I can save money for it, so it's a pretty slow build. Nothing fancy, but I have plans for making things a lot better when I have the time and money. I also like to do things by myself - I enjoy the process of learning new things along the way. The car itself is a 3-door Opel Corsa B 97' hatchback with 1.0, 3-cylinder engine - yeah, I know, pretty slow It has a 55 amp alternator and a 44ah Varta Blue battery - planning on upgrading them soon (along with many other stuff). The headunit is Pioneer deh-6900IB that I got for cheap. I didn't have the money for an active HU, but i definitely want to buy one soon - tired of amp and passive crossover restrictions... I have two amps - one 4 channel for my front stage and GZHA 1.1800dxii for the sub. For the front I use SB acoustics tweeters - mounted in fiberglass spheres on the A-pillars (pictures later) ran through the 4-channel amp with DIY passive crossovers. I have PHD 6.5" midbass/midwoofers (pretty old model) but haven't hooked them up yet. I have bought everything needed for making a 0,3-0,4 cu.ft. (around 10 litres) fiberglass sealed enclosures in the doors, but i will deal with them after the winter. Temporarily I use the OEM front door speakers that have no midbass at all, but deliver good midrange. The lack of midbass is mainly due to the lack of deadening (again, money issue). I have 2 layers of cheap bitumen deadener on the inside of one of the doors, but haven't sealed the holes on the other sheet. I also have 4 layers of deadener on the hatch door and have tightened it down, but I continue to break the back wiper (maybe because i use cheap ones), so I have to figure something out for the flex. The subwoofer I use is a Ground Zero GZRW 30spl Extreme. I have tested out many enclosures, but right now it is in a 83 liter (2,93 cu.ft.) enclosure tuned at 33hz. I plan on cutting the port to increase the tune to 35hz and after the winter to build a 100 liter (3,5 cu.ft.) tuned to 34-36hz. When I bought the woofer it was damaged (coil had bottomed out) and it made screachy noises at higher xmax. That's why I couldn't reach its potential - I was scared not to damage it more. Last week I got a fresh recone on it, so now it plays A LOT better - no more noises and power restrictions Last month I was at my first competition, getting 2nd place in the 12" cattegory (they take into account scores and instalation quality/creativity). Meter on dash, doors closed, car NOT running - only on battery power (44ah lead acid battery) on their test song - 142 @ 44hz. Same thing with doors open - 141,7 @ 40hz. Meter on dash again, driver's door open, car running, my music - 143,5 @ 41hz. The scores were with the damaged woofer and a 71 liter (2,5 cu.ft.) enclosure tuned at 35hz. Didn't have the opportunity to test scores on different frequencies or to find my peak. Now with the repaired woofer, with a new battery and good deadening I want to achieve 145 @ 38-42hz. Hopefully I would be able to do it after a couple of months. I'll post the pics I have in the next post and I will update the topic whenever I have something going on. Any input is appreciated!
  9. I have recently just purchased a Rockford Fosgate P3 12" inch sub. I want to build a box but not really sure if it's best to stay within the manufactures recommended dimensions of .75 to 1.25 for a sealed box. And then the subject of what provides better sound, from a box thats taller than long, or longer than tall. Then the subject of facing the sub towards the back seat or out into the trunk. Can some one help me out? I'm very knowledgeable to car audio, just not at going beyond manufacturers recommended volume and trunks.
  10. CleanSierra

    Proud little moment

    I know it's really not a big deal in the grand scheme of things but I was a little proud of my year in MECA. It was my first year as a member and my first year competing in any organization. I started out at a 147.9 @ the headrest and ended at a 151.0 @ the end of the season at the headrest. On the hottest day of the year it only did a 150.5 legal and second hottest day it did a 150.8. In the evening, it does anywhere from a 151-151.5 depending on HOW hot it is in the AZ nights. This is the reason I'm posting this thread: Not only did I win my class in SPL for the year, I guess I won Park and Pound too. The other kind of cool thing is, I qualified for Nationals in Alabama(I didn't go) with the points I gathered throughout the year. I can't wait to get in the lanes next year with an even louder(hopefully) build.
  11. In Stock And Ready To Go, Now Whos ready to GET LOUD!!
  12. Frank Seaton-Gilford

    Audiopipe TXX-BD3 12 (2)

  13. Went out to my first comp today. The highest I hit was 139.9 on a 34 hz burp. I think there might have been some major flaws in my box design looking for suggestions for another box. I am not opposed to any suggestions at this point but due to trunk size the sub will have to face upward. Just looking to get a little louder. Setup 05 Chevy Malibu 1 18 FI SP4 DC Audio 2k A3 (2000rms) Sky High Big three (2/0) OFC Sky High (1/0) OFC ran to back XS D3400 (starting) XP3000 (Rear) Box (3/4 MDF) Exterior Height 15in, Width 38in, Depth 30in Port 34hz (opening facing inside cabin on bottom of box) Height 2in, Width 36.5 in, Length 18 in The top (sub holding side) was braced with another sheet of mdf 36.5 x 28.50 The port side was also braced the same way The port itself had 2 3/4 x 3 in mdf "leg" supports in the rear When I first played it I had about 1-3 inches of flex on bottom of the box which I was able to reduce by putting in multiple 3 inch lag bolts.
  14. This will be a slow build to start. But once all the products are in the build show go pretty smoothly.
  15. No vs threads
  16. Summary: 08 Silverado, ext cab, 5.3L. Walled off with seats in comfortable positions (not straight up and down like some dedicated walls). This will be a daily driver still. I don't want a system that ONLY hits low end, I dont listen to purely boosted music, i want a system that can do well on a variety of music. Basically a system any passenger can throw on their phone on the aux and listen to what they want and sound good and loud. Goals for System: I have a few goals, anything above that is a plus. * Very musical like from 27hz to 50 hz or so * Crazy Hair-tricks * Nasty lows that you hear from blocks away * 153s Amps: Either of the following combinations (help me decide) looking to stay below 2 grand for amps (mind you these numbers arent including any rises, these are the top of the spectrum at absolutely max power, voltage and unlikely circumstance but why not account for these anyways ) * B2M1u - Running at 0.5Ω daily & burping (4950w @ 14.4v per sub theorycrafting) $2000 * Two Crescendo5500 - Running at 1Ω daily & Burping (2900w @ 13.8v per sub theorycrafting) $2000 * Two SoundQubed3500 - 8600w @ 14.4v - running at 1Ω daily & 0.25Ω burping (2150w @ 14.4 daily & 7000w @ 14.4v burping per sub theorycrafting) $1200 Subs: Four SoundQubed HDC4-15s Charging System: Triple Alt bracket, stock alt for regular electrical and two 300+Amp alts for audio system. (recommendations on alts for this system?) also will probably run ext regulated so I can run a 16v audio electrical More details on Electrical: All electrical will be in a waterproof toolbox in the back of the bed under a soft top. Hole cut in the bottom or back to allow access for wires into cab. * 6 banks of 8 caps per bank. (maybe more banks) * 2 runs of 1/0 for power off each alt to rear * Dual inputs on both amps for 4 runs total of both power and ground * Alternator grounds going straight to strut mount brace for a vehicle grounding. * All grounds in rear from cap bank/amps going straight to frame Fusing: * All 4 runs off alternators being fused in back before connecting to cap banks. * Fuse between cap banks and amps * Any other places I'm forgetting? Random Details: I would like to leave about 1/4 to 1/3 of the toolbox free for actual storage for like a bag of fuses, drill, and other random tools for comps. I dont have toolbox yet but will get one that fits under the soft top and leaves enough room for me to load my motorcycle up with the tailgate down. So all in all does this sound like its pretty well planned out or is there some major changes i need to make? Heres my truck in all her glory
  17. Hey everyone, this is my first post to SMD, so bare with me as it might be a little sloppy. But right now I am trying to build a ported box for my 2 Alpine SWR-12D2. I've lost so much sleep reading about porting because I really don't want to go through the time, effort, and wood to have a crappy ported box come out. As of right now I have them in a custom built divided chamber sealed box with 1.76 cubic feet per sub in the back of my 03 Chevy Tahoe. I've done all the research I can and I have some ideas in mind for a build. I read up on port area, port tuning, cuffing, you name it. I just would love a second opinion. (Keep in mind thsee specs are for only half of the box with one woofer, as the other side will be mirrored, I just did this to save some time and math) Enclosure 1: Box Dimensions H:15" W:25" D:20" Port Dimensions H:13.5" W:3" L:37" Box Stats Gross Vol: 3.40 ft3 Port Vol: 1.06 ft3 Physical Port L: 33.25" Port Bends: Yes Port Area Range: 27-36 in2 Port Area: 40.50 in Port Area Per Foot: 18.08 in Net Vol: 2.24 ft3 Tuning Freq: 33.36hz Enclosure 2 Box Dimensions H:15" W:25" D:19" Port Dimensions H:13.5" W:2.5" L:28" Box Stats: Gross Vol: 3.21 ft3 Port Vol: .70 ft3 Physical Port L: 24.75" Port Bends: Yes Port Area Range: 29-39 in2 Port Area: 33.75 in2 Port Area Per Foot: 14 in2 Net Vol: 2.41 ft3 Tuning Freq: 33.28hz Thanks for any feedback you might have! Open to ANY ideas!
  18. Aistis Šestakauskas

    dual 2 ohm voice coil wireing

    Hello everyone. I want to ask how can i connect my dual 2ohm voice coil woofer to amp mcHammer vulcane 2400? Can i use two channels of amp?
  19. I have a 02 ford ranger. I have 10 grand to spend on the audio alone. I have designed and built many 150-154 decibel systems (all of them hit over 150 between 27-33hz) but never anything near 160 on music. Weeks of searching on the magical google as left me clueless on how to get my truck to a 160 without throwing 12 18s into a sealed wall. I am not sure if it would be possible to hit 160 decibels around 30-40hz on my price range being I love decaf and chopped and screwed music but I am willing to do anything to get as close as possible. My max dimensions is 70x40x35. All extra oddly shaped room around it I was planning to fill with 2x4s, plywood, and sand. This is leaving 15 inches in the very back for amps and batteries. This truck is getting an 8 inch lift and will have room under the truck worst case scenario for more batteries although i would really like to avoid that. I have a few ideas but am open to anything. I really like the psi platform subs for their customizibility when ordered and extremely high xmax. The smaller subs all have a 54mm xmax. The 18s with an extended voice coil as well as bigger spiders have a 76mm xmax. I was thinking wall it by the front seats. Put 2 platform 3 18s in there. Give the subs maybe 10 cubes each and have the rest be the biggest port possible. Front baffle being 6 layers thick as well as the back and have the entire inside of the box rounded out towards the port. Another idea was to put 2 platform 3 18s in either a 4th or a 6th order tuned between 25-40hz. Giving it maybe 15-20 cubes each. Remember I will be adding wood till it hits the edges of the vehicle and then filling any small gaps to the brim with sand mixed with resin to keep the box as strong as possible as well as forcing the sound to only be able to travel to the cab instead of out the roof or floor. Anything for extra dbs. We could also do a horn system if anyone knows how to tune that. Have a wall or something in the back and just a massive horn leading to the front. Never done any horn systems before so no clue what works and what doesnt but I have seen a couple full car horn systems that sounded really good on music and was over 150 decibels. What do you guys think? I currently have a 240amp mechman laying around. Thinking maybe use that for mids/highs and to replace the stock charging system and find a way to squeeze 2 340 amp alts in with it for the big subs. Everything needs to be completely redone. Main thing is I cant think of any ways to get too power crazy here being we only got 10 grand to spend so Im looking for extreme enclosure efficiency and any possible way to gain some extra dbs. I would like the mids and highs to keep up with the bass as well. Im looking for a 40.60 to a 50.50 ratio of mids/highs to bass.
  20. I have a PowerBass 3XL 15 in a 4.4 cube box tuned at 31Hz, sub up, port back. Up until today, I had two, 4" aero ports and while the higher bass sounded good, my lows were suffering horribly. When I used the calculator and entered my driver size, Xmax and tuning frequency, it recommended 7.45" minimum diameter and 43.56" of port area. The two 4's were only like 25" of port area, so I decided to go with one, 8" port at the same 31Hz, giving me 50" of port area, all much closer to what's recommended. The high bass basically sounds the same, maybe a tiny bit of output loss.... The low bass however, seems to move more air than sound! I can put my ear to the port playing a 30Hz frequency and it sounds like nothing but air to me.... I put my head to the window and my hair is blowing in the breeze, yet I don't hear much in the way of low frequency SOUND. Hard to explain any other way, so I hope everyone gets what I am saying lol. What could be wrong here? Port is about 6" from the hatch. Inner metal, outer metal and plastic paneling is all deadened with 50 mil. GT Mat, yet I still get rattles from all the air movement. The only other thing I changed besides the port size, is I inverted the sub for more air space. I would think this would yield more output, not less? Any input is appreciated, as I just tore apart a really nice looking box, for no output gain what so ever
  21. Ninja1990

    Changing my amps?

    My current system is: 2x Alpine MRP-M500 500W RMS @ 2ohms Each mono runs a Rockford Fosgate punch P3 DVC P3D412, which are 500RMS and peak at 1000 So I can always hit the RMS, but never go higher that that (in theory?). For the longest time I always thought Peak was a junk number that didnt matter but RMS was all you needed to worry about, then I think I learned that it actually has some meaning but RMS is more important? Mids and Highs: Alpine MRP-F300 Which I was going to bridge to my tweets (yeah 300W to my tweets) Alpine MRP-F550 Which was bridged to my mids. Originally I was under the impression that no one ran rears? I got rear ended my amp rack broke and my fronts got blown (I was sitting still and she was going 40+) Her insurance is paying for the repairs, with that money plus my own added funds I have this: So after looking around researching and talking I came up with this for a replacement. Rears: Infinity Kappa 693.11i 6x9's (run in parallel @ 2ohms) Fronts: Infinity Kappa 60.11cs 6 1/2's (run in parallel @ 2ohms) 4Channel: Hifonics ZRX2000.4 4 Channel running fronts and rears @ 500W RMS x 4 @ 2 Ohms (Those drivers are stable at 2 ohms, the competitors in the class were only 4-ohm stable. For the subs, same Rockford's 500 Watts RMS 1000 Watts Max I'm looking to run them both @1 ohm off a single amp. They are Dual 4-ohm, so obviously they run at 2 with the voice coils in parallel, so if I run them both off the same amp it'll be a 2ohm load. (I think) I'm looking at the Hifonics BRX2000.1D to do that, and before you say "Ew Hifonics?" This series is actually CEA-2006 Compliant As far as replacing my 4 channel I was looking at the Hifonics 2000W RMS, I listed above because it is 2 ohm stable at 500 x 4. However that series is not CEA-2006 compliant. Which may or may not be a big deal. I'd like to be around 2000W RMS total. I think that's the right thing? I'm running 2 channels to the front, one to each crossover, and 2 channels to the back one to each 6x9. I specifically picked all 2 ohm speakers, if I run them in parallel that will drop me to one ohm? If I run them in series then I'm up to 4 ohms? The amp I mentioned before is 500W RMS x 4 @ 2 Ohms, 250W RMS x 4 @ 4 Ohms. Is there a better amp for around the same price range ($200-$300), I know that's not a lot, I recently learned that you don't need the big names if you know where to look (My former/current system is all Alpine and Rockford Subs).
  22. Thought I would share my personal build. Mainly built for Mwspl adv2 and xtrm 3. Soon i'll be testing some woofers in here to see what ends up being loudest. Custom Z4s and NSV3s first. The whole stack goes between 2 builds + 12 more sheets. Starting the shell: Finished up with sides, the top is 3 layers but the second is brought back a few inches for clearances: Start of the back wall, stacked 10" thick: Here i start and finish up the baffles and get to where I am now with finishing the front port. I took about a week to get to the front port when a new project came up that i will share in another thread!
  23. This is a build we are doing for iasca, ispll, and mwspl. Two custom z4 18s, and one of pipo's old team cactus 5ks! I'll get pics of the back plate at a later time. For finals we will be using a NS1v2 for now. Car is a 97 geo metro! I'll start with the woofer build! I've only got pics of 1 of 2 lol. Here is the start of the wall and where we got today on it.
  24. Selling my Term Lab since i wont be needing it for awhile and im getting money together for a down payment. I bought it brand new and barely use it. $475 Shipped
  25. bigsausagepizza

    Windows Up VS Windows Down

    First off, I'm nowhere near loud enough for this to affect me, but it's something I'd love to learn about. I'll just throw out a list of questions, feel free to answer any you can or expand on different topics as well. Why are some vehicles louder with the windows down/door open (scientific explanation would be awesome!)? Approximately what spl level does this start to make a difference? Does the type of box make a difference? Are some better with up vs some with down? What type of vehicles are better up/down? Which competitions/formats require windows up/down? Feel free to expand upon anything, I'm mostly interested in the theory of why windows down can sometimes be louder and what factors make this happen.