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Found 4 results

  1. So first of all, let me say that this is a subjective review, backed by some testings. Don't expect something ultra scientific - just my opinion on this beast. The subwoofer belongs to a friend of mine. It is a Sundown Zv4 rev.2 15" with NSv2 D2 coil. Here it is next to his Ground Zero Plutonium 15" and next to my humble 12". His car is an Audi A6 C4 Avant. He has an OEM 120A alt (which will be changed when possible), one 70ah AGM battery at the front and three 105ah AGM batteries at the back. He has a GZPA 1.10k HC amp, which claims to produce a bit over 10k at 1 ohm. The subwoofer box was built by me - 4,6 cu.ft. (130 litres) tuned at 32hz with an interchangeable 8" aero. Double layer mdf everywhere and triple layer baffle. And in the car: Now for some impressions. Pictures and videos do this thing no justice! If you haven't seen or touched a sub that big, it literally shocks you. I am very impressed with everything about this thing - the new cooling on the motor, the new surround, the leads.... Let me say that this is the first sundown new platform sub that I have touched with my hands. I can only imagine how big the NSv3 and the Team are... I won't post pictures of different parts of the sub - you have probably seen them already. The cooling is a bit noisy (which I think is a good thing because of the higher velocity of the air that cools the coil - Jacob could chime in on that) but the suspension itself is VERY quiet up to very high excursion. I don't think the leads will have any problems with the power you'd like to throw at it. Mechanically this thing is top notch - the linear excursion is high enough to ensure high spl levels without much distortion and the hard bottom limits of the motor/coil are pretty hard to reach. You will more likely stress the soft parts before the coil gets close to the bottom - we will get to that part later. Thermally - WOW! For a "2000" rms sub this thing cools like a champ! Good job on that! I know that this particular one is with a bit longer coil (from NSv2) but you get the idea. When we first loaded the sub, we expected that it won't require much power and we will have to bring down the gains from the previous setup (GZPW 15SPL tuned at 47hz, wired at 0,5 ohm). Boy, was I mistaken! We only had to adjust the filters a bit. If the power we gave it was clean - no signs of any smell or overheating. It only smelled when the power was clipped. Keep in mind that the sub was rather new on that moment, so It wasn't broken in completely. From then to now there is a night and day difference. With this 10k amp, wired at 1 ohm and with this box, we didn't experience any mechanical trouble near or above tuning. The amp would start clipping before we could stress the suspention enough to turn it down. We left the LPF at 40hz with 12db slope. Of course, we had to use subsonic, but nothing drastic. When the cone exceeds its linear travel, the suspension starts stressing and there is BL distortion, so it gets a bit loud mechanically, but we're talking over 3" p-p. Mechanical limit of the motor is over 4" as you all know - we didn't dare reach it. It's not healthy for the driver either Surprisingly, even with a 32hz tuning and a bigger than suggested box, it played the higher frequencies quite well - was very surprised on that! I wanted to tune this thing at 28-29, but there wasn't enough space for that - we used a straight aeroport and we had to keep an adequate distance between the walls and the mouths of the port. Next box will definitely be slightly bigger on volume and lower on tuning! On its first competition it did 151,7db at 36hz on the dash - driver's door open and with people pushing the doors. It also did 135,6db at 25hz, 149db at 33hz and 149,7db at 40hz. It wasn't broken in completely, but I can't say how much that will affect the scores. We measured the power going to the sub on different frequencies using the clamping method, which is NOT the most adequate way to do this, but it gets the work done. There was NO clipping during these tests, therefore the sub stayed cool the whole time and there wasn't any sign of smell, even when measuring at tuning. I'll just put the numbers we got at tuning (32hz) and at best score (36hz). These tests were NOT done when we measured the system on the competition - when we measure we introduce a bit of clipping to get the score higher. System voltage stayed between 12.3-12.8 during the tests. At 36hz 116.1V x 24.7A = 2867 watts, rising to 4,7 ohms At 32hz 109.9V x 44.0A = 4835 watts, rising to 2,5 ohms I repeat, these tests were done with no clipping and without fully charged batteries. The test tones were played for a couple of seconds to ensure that the sub doesn't have any problems with longer playing on that power. The power needed to achieve the scores I mentioned earlier would have been a bit higher. So yeah, I can pretty much say that on 2000 watts, be it clamped or with a 2-3k amp, this subwoofer will have ABSOLUTELY NO problems (if it is clean, of course). If you keep the power clean and adjust the subsonic properly, you could feed this thing A LOT of power. And that's daily - on burp it could and would handle much more. I don't even understand how people can listen to this with a 3-4k amp for example - it just begs for more (clean) power! If I could wire this thing at 0,5 ohm on this 10k amp (after getting proper alternator) - I'd deffinitely do it. It's better to keep a powerful amp down, rather than clipping a smaller one. Of course, with higher power comes greater responsibility, so I'd have to adjust the gains and filters accordingly, but overal I don't think I'll have a problem and it will perform better than now. Do I recommend on going over the rated power? Absolutely no! At least for those who don't know what they are doing. You will void your warranty and may damage the subwoofer. Thank you for your time, hope you enjoyed my review! Here's a little "shirt" trick for finale. Wait a bit for the good part.
  2. Alright so finally got around to "finishing" a build in one of my vehicles haha. I say "finishing" because it's as close to done without having the new alternator or battery racks built but it's sooo close lol. "Fighter Jet" reasoning will be shown through pictures, hopefully you get the meaning haha. Here are the stats: 2000 Ford Explorer Limited 5.0 AWD Pioneer 80PRS Custom switch/gauge panel SHCA RCAs, fuse holders, ring terminals, heat shrink SHCA Green and Black 1/0 DC AUDIO 5K DC AUDIO 10k 4- Soundqubed HDC3 10s 4 - 18" DC Audio Lvl 6 18s, full Carbon fiber option XSPOWER Batteries SINGER ALTERNATORS Anyone want to see some pictures?
  3. Well Its finally time for me to start a build log, won't have too much time to work on it due to school, work, and being broke. Like a glove! yes its printer paper...I was bored at work not too shabby for paper and scotch tape
  4. First off, 1996 Honda accord station wagon. 329 amp hairpin alternator. Big 3 is completed with 0 gauge wire from sky high. 3400 XS battery up front. I am keeping the air conditioning. Could possibly consider cutting a hole in the hood to fit a 2nd alternator *in the future* but not now. What i am trying to learn, is how to figure out how many batteries I need to sustain X voltage. I know about amp hours. I know my alternator came with paperwork saying it is rated at 4,890 watts. What I don't know, is how to figure out how many batteries I need once I go above that 4,890 watts. How do I figure out how many batteries I need for 6k watts? 10k? 16k? 20k? I know I could just throw 30 tractor batteries at it, I don't want a hand out. I want to learn the math behind figuring out how many batteries I will need. Any help is greatly appreciated.