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Found 8 results

  1. Today we look at the largest AudioControl bass amplifier, the LC-1.1500. This amp is rated to deliver 850 watts at 4 ohms and 1500 watts at 2 ohms. Let's find out if it does rated power and try it out with a subwoofer... Note: amplifier was sent to me by AudioControl to test, however I was free to give my own opinions of the amp. This was not a sponsored video.
  2. Ok so I am new to the fourm, and joined to ask this question: I have 10 Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1's in a dual ported box. and a choice of a Kicker ZX1000.1 or a JL slash 500/1v1 to push them with. Feeding the signal to the amp is a Audiocontrol LC2i LOC, and it's tapping the stock subs line out. I just installed the system last night and went with the Kicker. Thinking that the 1000 would be better b/c the subs are rated at 350 rms and 1300 max per sub. I tried to tune it today and the gain in the amp is as far down as it will go and the gain on the LC2i is mid-way, and it is crazy loud!!! I was just wondering am I overpowering these??? or is the LC2i just that beast that it will push 2 Kappa Perfects on its own. Should I go with the JL??? anythoughts??
  3. Hi everyone, I recently installed an audiocontrol lc2i in a car. My problem is that when i turn the car on the processor turns on for about 3 to 5 seconds and then shuts off. I'm using the gto remote feature and used the remote port as a turn on for my amps. Any suggestions or anyone know what the problem is? thanks!
  4. Anyone use line driver for SPL? Does it help? I have RCA output of 4v rms already from my stereo, will it benefit me using this line driver (see below)? Amp is NS1 btw. http://i.seimg.net/images/527551/main/overdrive-gray.jpg http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_28924_AudioControl-OVERDRIVE-OVERDRIVE-PLUS-Gray.html
  5. So i figure i should post some of my own car audio setuo here on SMD istead of just commenting on others stuff and posting "random pic's" Did alternator upgrade for the 2nd time (from a 170 G series mechman to 250 Elite) & wiring upgrade yesterday (for the 3rd time) i think it turned out ok. Not much to see in the cab but it does the job, My source unit, the istreamer i'm using is mounted to the backside of the side slider. I've got some running around to do this afternoon, will post some more pictures of the setup later.
  6. i hope this is the right area, if not please let me know. im wiring a LC7i into a 2013 ford superduty. also adding a epicenter before my amp. i have a 2013 superduty with the factory sony amp, and im trying to figure out the best way to grab the signal from the amp. is it best to use a speaker signal, a combination of speakers, or maybe just the sub signal? also, wat about running power to the lc7i and the epicenter? just grab it from the factory amp, or should i grab it from the factory aux switches located under the dash? what is going to give me the best sounds as far as what signal to grab? thanks in advance.
  7. Hi All, I'm putting together a sweet 10 channel active system in a new Tesla Model 3 that's fairly complex, and I want to make sure there is a single volume and bass knob. My favorite so far is the JL Audio DRC-200 because it has both volume and bass control in one unit, but the trick is getting it to work like I want - help! There are basically two input groups (via DSP presets) going into a AudioControl DM-810 DSP. The first is the car's stock signal via high level inputs, and the second is a hi-res source via Optical. I was thinking to put a JL Audio Fix 86 before the AudioControl DM-810 so the JL unit can control volume, but that will only work for the stock signal. The Fix 86 doesn't have an optical in like the DM-810 does, so the knob won't be able to control the hi-res source like I need it to in that configuration. If I use just the DM-810 for everything, I'll have a unified volume knob by using the AudioControl ACR-3 knob but it has no bass knob (i.e. it's just one control, not two). Do you have any ideas for how I can pull off using the JL DRC-200 for everything? The closest thing I can think of will add a lot of cost, and I'd lose two output channels by going from 10 down to just 8. This would involve putting a JL Audio TwK 88 after the DM-810. That way the DM-810 could flatten factory signal (like the Fix 86 would have) for the stock signal, which the TwK 88 would then tune with its EQ. On the hi-res side, the DM-810 would tune audio and then just pass through the TwK 88 without any changes. With the TwK 88 last in the chain, I would be able to pass everything through the DRC-200 knob, but putting the TwK 88 last means I'd only have 8 output channels rather than the 10 I need coming off the DM-810. If it were possible to put the TwK 88 before the DM-810, that would be great, but there aren't any high level inputs on the DM-810. This could technically be solved if I used a Fix 86 before a TwK 88 and then the DM-810, but that seems like such a HUGE waste of money and equipment. If you could let me know any better idea to get the DRC-200 to work, I would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks! -Eggz
  8. 2010 chevy express work van plans: 4 18”s may be american bass on 2 8k,prv 8 midrange 8 midbass 10in speakers,8horns,24Twiters, 3- xs30k 7- D3100, 2 Dcpower 370, running iPad pro to sony rsx-gs9 to audio control dm-810 via optital cable all digital up to the dm810 https://ibb.co/cWkbqR https://ibb.co/fg9fH6 https://ibb.co/e5xNVR https://ibb.co/cRBSx6 https://ibb.co/nao7x6 https://ibb.co/jHg5jm https://ibb.co/fZgSx6 https://ibb.co/kCEQjm https://ibb.co/kD1hVR https://ibb.co/gV15jm https://ibb.co/kNGGqR
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