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Found 8 results

  1. ok im doing this post to hopefully inform everyone out there that has or are looking to buy the pwx speakers from crescendo to the following. IF YOU ARE USING THESE IN DOORS OR BOXES.... or anything for that matter... that the cones are SEE THOUGH!!!! once speakers are mounted you can EASILY add lights behind the cones to add flare to your set up. for some reason i seem to be the only one that knows about this and have actually done it. see this video as well as the pics below please keep in mind this video was shot for a potential buyer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ky9uSdq6Qw
  2. This isn't a Vs. thing, more like me asking to lean on your experience since I have no good way to really test these drivers, no where that I know of in MO carries these brands.. So I have my front doors and install finished and perfected, but my speakers are a little weakers than I would dance for, so I am using some tax monies to try to fix that prob and I want your allses helps! I run a 3 way active and have a mini DSP 6x8 on the way and a sub about to be installed, so consider it a 4-way active system I guess, and its in a single cab 2006 Silverado 1500 truck. I am currently running Jl audio CS200 2 way component tweeters and 6.5s (I am going to replace the tweeters soon too) and dayton audio 3s in the doors. I run midbass something like 125hz - 300hz, possibly as high as 600hz sometimes, I've been toying back and forth. The thump is ok, but I want it louder, with more power handling and more chest rattling thump, the closer I can get to take my breath away the better. I am running a Jl audio 360/2 to the midbass, but I am considering also getting an amp for the midbass that has 200w per channel and better signal to noise ratio, because the 360/2 kinda sucks there. I am leaning towards a pair of CDT-ES06+s on a Jl audio rd400v3, but I want your suggestions! My budget is something like 600 absolute max, 400 would be preferred. Thanks in advance!
  3. this is not a VS thread in any way. hey guys, im thinking about midbass and highs for my car, i can fit a 6.5 or smaller under my dash along with a tweeter of some sort. anyway, i want to run 400 watts to each midbass speaker, with two 18's and limited space for midbass speakers i need loads of wattage. these are the speakers im thinking about using, i heard they can handle a lot more than 400 watts, but 400 is a god number. http://www.parts-express.com/morel-tiw-634ft-titanium-series-ferrite-6-woofer-4-ohm--297-100 and the tweeter i'll be using http://www.parts-express.com/morel-mdm-55-2-1-8-soft-dome-midrange--287-020 i'll be running 4 of each, tweeter will get 200 watts.
  4. On my truck (2000 Silverado 1500 EXT Cab LT) i have factory wiring for both a tweeter and a midbass speaker. Im sure this is a stupid question.. But would i get more power out of a headunit using the factory wiring for the tweeter and the midbass versus connecting just the midbass to the crossover to power both the tweeter and midbass?
  5. Picked up 4 crescendo 6.5's for my 14 corolla, will be putting 2 in front doors in stock spots and 2 in rear deck stock spots. Car comes with 6 speaker system, with two tweeters build into the corner of the front windows facing the cabin. Question is this I will be running these on my Rockford Fosgate P400x4 Punch http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p400x4 Since its a relatively efficient amp and the birth sheet says 563 watts should I be running each set of nendos on 1 channel to maximize the power instead of 50 to each then its doubled of course? (If my understanding is correct), effectively running it in 2 channels instead of 4, are there draw backs to doing this? will it effect anything drastically? Also will this effect my stock tweeters in the front stage with too much power? or do i need to buy crossovers for them? also let's say i run them each on 1 channel since ill be not utilizing even half there power potential will I be able to go lower on the hertz range closer to 40 hrtz? instead of nendos tech sheet saying 80 hrtz +? Not running a sub till next season i think so trying to make the best of this configuration for a little bit of time. Thanks ahead of time guys.
  6. my current build is using 6 eminince delta 12s and 6 audiipipe 6.5s in doors with 8 tweeters. i am ooking for something that wont break the bank, ut will give me good clean sounds. the stestom ex3000 has been offered to me, and i been looking at soundstream 4ch amp as well as precision power class d full range amp. any suggestions. i do have the big 3 upgrade, alternator upgrade, and one marine battery.
  7. So I'm putting a bunch of gear from my last system into a 2 door Toyota Starlet hatch, and I'm now unsure about the placement of the woofers and midbass. The speakers that are going to go in it are: x4 older model DD w6.5s x2 DD c6.5s used as mid/woofers x2 DLS 2.5" dome mids x2 DD tweeters from the c6.5 set The last 3 items will be on DLS 3-way crossovers, the stuff sounds quite good together with the tweeter wired out of phase and the woofers high passed at like 120-150hz kinda range. The w6.5s were amped separately picking up where the c6.5s left off down to about 70hz. I'm yet to decide on a sub, I'll either make do with something I have or try borrow something off someone. Hopefully I can get hold of a spare 9510 or something. Anyway the mids and tweeters are going in pods on the A pillar so that is sorted. I'm just not too sure what to do with all the 6.5"s now. The original idea was to glass the c6.5s in the front doors and glass the w6.5s in these little recesses by the back seats. But now I'm wondering if that'll kinda ruin the imaging. But as impressive as 3 6.5"s in each front door would look I'm not sure if there is enough room because the doors aren't too thick, and the windows aren't electric so there needs to be room for the winding handle. Also I don't know which would give the w6.5s the best airspace, the little recess in the back has a little pocket which looks as though it can be popped out and then it should have a lot of room behind it. I took a bunch of pictures, sorry there isn't really anything to show scale, but that recess in the back is about 6.5" tall and 14"ish long and the doors will definitely fit a single 6.5" toward the front of them. So what do you guys think I should do? w6.5s in the back ok since they aren't playing too high? Try squeeze everything in doors? (not sure if possible)
  8. I have a pair of RF P2D4-8's that I would like to use for midbass on a P500.2 amp. The suggested box sealed is 0.23 ft3 with an F3 of 64hz. The suggested ported box has a much lower F3 at 33Hz and is .65ft3 with 2" diameter by 8" long port. When going for midbass 70-300Hz range which would be better, sealed or ported? and if so, are there any changes that need to be made for the better setup? Cheers,
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