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cheapest way to run a car amp on wall power?


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i've got a couple of jl 12's that used to be in my car before i decided it was time to upgrade.

wanted to know the most cost effective way to use the car subs for my room. i'm likely going to sell the system soon, so i'm not really looking to spend very much money.

and i know car subs are meant for cars and not homes, but idrc. i just wanted to experiment a little bit and wondered the best way to do this.

thanks

Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs.

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some cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches!

I'm with captain stupid.

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you can either use a car battery charger and attach it to a battery as Bassick statedm or you can buy a computer power supply (preferably over 1000w) and attach all the yellow 12+v wires to the amplifiers 12v+ and the adjacent black wires for ground, to the amplifiers ground terminal respectively. then find the large 20 or 24 pin connector and find the green wire and the adjacent black wire and find a way to attach them together, either a paper clip (not really safe lol) or cut them off and solder them together etc. this will simulate the computer turning on and it will kick on the PSU. then take a short piece of wire and bridge the 12v+ and remote terminals on the amplifier.

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Just my opinion on this. I have a 750w computer power supply that i bought a long time ago for a damn good price of $40 when circuit city was going under. It works great for mine but it by no means has the amperage behind it to keep my amp powered on for my sub. I have it running my old fusion reactor ream-900 amplifier and it is a pretty decent amp from what i use it for but i have to have the resistance up higher than hell or else it draws a lot of current and my psu i have goes into protect mode due to it being overloaded. So as a precaution dont expect to crank out the same power you can in your vehicle by using a power supply. it just wont happen.

And Kranny im not trying to say you were wrong at all but you dont need to take all the positive and grounds to the amp. I would just say that if possible make the runs as short as possible because as we all know the 12/16 gauge wire that the power supplies come with is not enough for running a car amp. I had mine on the stock 3 foot run (yea thats right a 3 foot run of the stock power supply cable!!!) and the end of the wire closest to the amp got pretty warm from it being loaded up with a ton of power. The PSU will get you going but if you expect to wire your speakers up in a very low impedance or crank the power dont expect it to stay on. Either you will fry your power supply or you will make the power supply go into protect mode like mine does and you have to reset it by pulling the plug from the wall for 5 minutes.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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i'm actually only using a 500 watt amp. don't need a tonna power. i just wanna see if it will work, and play around with it a bit.

i've got the W0v2's. spent waaay too much for the system.

anyways as long as i can get like 100-200 watts going, i'll be happy.

Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs.

More box builds

some cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches!

I'm with captain stupid.

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Simple ... Astron power supply ...

Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado   

"The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually"   

Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet)

Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch                         

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yea my amp is only like 250w rms at 2 ohms and when i wire to 2 ohms i can get it to sound good but when i start to raise the volume it draws so much current it shuts off the power supply from it being overloaded. So you can do it but just be warned that you will more than likely overload the powersupply and make it go into protect mode or melt it.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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