Superjay Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 actually, when the isolator clicks over when you turn the car on there's a sudden current dump to the second battery...this might have affected the computer...had this issue with a Range Rover...had to replace EVERy computer and the harness...$9k later (shop insurance covered it) we learned to not use isolator relays Principal JTech Consulting - Leader in 12-Volt Training and Product PlanningIt's not about how much power you have, but how well you use it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purplehaze Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 Here is the diagram I got w/ my isolator, which I only used for 1 day. If you run a wire directly from the alt, it would defeat the purpose, and confuse the isolator. Kickin' Cruiser Seller Feedback Stage 3 Dash, Door Panels,4th Order wall 4 - 15'son a DC 5.0K 2 DC 5.0K'sSolo X 15 (v.2) Sub Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasef87 Posted March 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 You seem to be making it much harder than it is.. I have a 2006 and I installed everything like normal. I have no problems. Ditch the isolator, run the alt to primary battery, primary to secondary battery, upgrade the wiring under the hood (leaving the stock wiring from the alt also) and you'll be fine. Somehow, they screwed it up. I wired my whole system and new alt in a few hours with no issues. I can post some pics if needed. They screwed something up and should pay. Yes please post some pics so I can check it out. I saw the ones you posted but can you show more of how you have the alt wired into the jeep and your primary batt and how you changed your 12v coming out of the fuse box. And how large is your HO alt and what does it charge at idle.? I'm trying to figure out if that was the problem. The alt I purchased is charging about 14.9 just idling with no load on it and I haven't been able to check it with a load or with the rpms up around 2,000. If the HO alt is the problem/defective I wouldn't feel right trying to make the install guy foot the bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasef87 Posted March 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 actually, when the isolator clicks over when you turn the car on there's a sudden current dump to the second battery...this might have affected the computer...had this issue with a Range Rover...had to replace EVERy computer and the harness...$9k later (shop insurance covered it) we learned to not use isolator relays So the way he has mine hooked up amp to alt, alt to 2nd battery, 2nd battery to isolator, and isolator to primary battery which still has the computer and factory wirring hooked into it. The way the current is flowing from the alt to the primary battery through the isolator, would that cause the voltage "dump" to occur in the primary battery therefor surging my computer and frying my stuff.? I don't really know how a isolator works and this is the 1st time i have ever seen one used so that is unfamiliar territory for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purplehaze Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 Okay, you can ignore me if you want to, but I have Chrysler, and I just went through the bs with the isolator. If the circuit is ran like you say, then it's not done right, and that is the cause of your problems. It's the installer dude, NOT THE ALT!!! Can someone else tell him this, so he might believe it? Kickin' Cruiser Seller Feedback Stage 3 Dash, Door Panels,4th Order wall 4 - 15'son a DC 5.0K 2 DC 5.0K'sSolo X 15 (v.2) Sub Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superjay Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 actually, when the isolator clicks over when you turn the car on there's a sudden current dump to the second battery...this might have affected the computer...had this issue with a Range Rover...had to replace EVERy computer and the harness...$9k later (shop insurance covered it) we learned to not use isolator relays So the way he has mine hooked up amp to alt, alt to 2nd battery, 2nd battery to isolator, and isolator to primary battery which still has the computer and factory wirring hooked into it. The way the current is flowing from the alt to the primary battery through the isolator, would that cause the voltage "dump" to occur in the primary battery therefor surging my computer and frying my stuff.? I don't really know how a isolator works and this is the 1st time i have ever seen one used so that is unfamiliar territory for me. you don't have an isolator...you have a giant relay...the purpose of that relay is so you can run the system with the car off and not drain your primary battery. unfortunately, with a computer system like yours, that's bad. a true isolator is a giant diode to keep the system from EVER using the primary battery. The current dump is taxing the primary electrical system whenever you turn the key all the way. and what purplehaze said Principal JTech Consulting - Leader in 12-Volt Training and Product PlanningIt's not about how much power you have, but how well you use it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasef87 Posted March 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 Okay, you can ignore me if you want to, but I have Chrysler, and I just went through the bs with the isolator. If the circuit is ran like you say, then it's not done right, and that is the cause of your problems. It's the installer dude, NOT THE ALT!!! Can someone else tell him this, so he might believe it? No no I have been reading everyones input. I haven't addressed you on this cause i am not familiar with how an isolator works or what it's purpose is really. And what in the function of the isolator would cause it to fry my computer. I am just trying to get a better understanding so I can talk intelligently with this guy and he doesn't BS me. So if you could explain to me what it's purpose is and how being hooked up the wrong way would cause the negative effect that would be great. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasef87 Posted March 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 actually, when the isolator clicks over when you turn the car on there's a sudden current dump to the second battery...this might have affected the computer...had this issue with a Range Rover...had to replace EVERy computer and the harness...$9k later (shop insurance covered it) we learned to not use isolator relays So the way he has mine hooked up amp to alt, alt to 2nd battery, 2nd battery to isolator, and isolator to primary battery which still has the computer and factory wirring hooked into it. The way the current is flowing from the alt to the primary battery through the isolator, would that cause the voltage "dump" to occur in the primary battery therefor surging my computer and frying my stuff.? I don't really know how a isolator works and this is the 1st time i have ever seen one used so that is unfamiliar territory for me. you don't have an isolator...you have a giant relay...the purpose of that relay is so you can run the system with the car off and not drain your primary battery. unfortunately, with a computer system like yours, that's bad. a true isolator is a giant diode to keep the system from EVER using the primary battery. The current dump is taxing the primary electrical system whenever you turn the key all the way. and what purplehaze said It says 200 amp Isolator right on the top of it. I don't know what brand it is but it's solid black. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superjay Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 it's a relay...when activated it clicks, right? about the size of the bottom half of a soda can? 4 terminals? yeah...relay Principal JTech Consulting - Leader in 12-Volt Training and Product PlanningIt's not about how much power you have, but how well you use it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasef87 Posted March 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 it's a relay...when activated it clicks, right? about the size of the bottom half of a soda can? 4 terminals? yeah...relay Ya all that. So making sure i got this right. When the car is turned all the way on the relay/isolator is then dumping stored power into my primary battery.? Which caused a surge to fry my computer.? So if I disconnect the relay/isolator and re run the amp to the battery like i think it should be. Then that will fix my problem, and i wont have to run a dedicated electrical system for my system specifically, and keep it seperate from my stock stuff.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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