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Damplifier or DP?


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i hate all you p&s haters, its not that bad when you apply it correctly, and obviously you didnt, because its literally impossible to get off when applied correctly. its not THAT bad, it doesnt lower reasonance but it sure as hell stops rattles, dont give it such bad cred.... and you're supposed to heat the activator out of it before you apply it, thats why people have such shitty results and why it comes off 6 months later, because they didnt install it properly.

im not a second skin hater tho, im just saying p&s isnt THAT bad.

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im taking out my passenger seat, battery is disconnected, going to unwire and take out the three amps, take out the 70+ lb box, then the platform so i can crimp 1 wire.

Almost as bad as those fegs that put those horns in their grills and roll down the street distorting the block....

1990 Jeep Cherokee 2 Dr.

Big-3 in 0g on Stock Alt.

Pioneer 6.5" and 5.25"s temp. until i can afford the new crescendos.

Pioneer 6000ub Reciever

NO amps at the moment. SA-15 on 1kw coming soon.

MSG Me for a free enclosure design!!

Flared port kits coming soon!!

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I had that fatmat installed for 3 years. Applied with a roller and heat gun on every square inch of it. Now that I don't like using cheap shit any more and go for quality I'd rather used a product designed to do what I want it to do. Not a roofing product.

Edited by Robert8252

2013 F150 Crew Cab



Old Build Log



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2013 F150

Equipment - Some Awesome Stereo Sound Making Stuff

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i hate all you p&s haters, its not that bad when you apply it correctly, and obviously you didnt, because its literally impossible to get off when applied correctly. its not THAT bad, it doesnt lower reasonance but it sure as hell stops rattles, dont give it such bad cred.... and you're supposed to heat the activator out of it before you apply it, thats why people have such shitty results and why it comes off 6 months later, because they didnt install it properly.

im not a second skin hater tho, im just saying p&s isnt THAT bad.

I didn't know P&S had a heat activated adhesive. Most of the stuff I've seen and used (not for automotive sound deadening) is just sticky from the asphalt and the small amount of rubber they add to it.

Now the Original Dynamat had a heat activated adhesive, and yes it was asphalt based. Dynamic Control used a butadiene rubber based adhesive as their delivery method, hints why their mat had better adhesion and didn't slip and slide off everything, because they actually had an adhesive in the product.

P&S on the other hand was designed for low slope roofs (something like a 3/12 pitch or shallower, or in other words about 14° of slope). This is why it seems to fail quite frequently, people are exceeding it's usability range and exceeding that 14°s (such as sticking it on a door at 90°).

Enough of my ramblings though. People will continue to use P&S because of how inexpensive it is and the fact that you can get it everywhere. I just like to inform everyone of the differences between all of these products and let them decide for themselves.

Later,

Have a question about Second Skin? E-Mail me!

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It's on the roof of my truck... Not a problem with it... 1 layer in front section about 4 or 5 in back.

I assume you're referring to P&S and not Damplifier, either way I hope it stays there (I know one of those two will). ;)

So for clarification to everyone, by no means am I or anyone that is anti P&S saying that it will fail 100% of the time. Some sticks well, some doesn't. Same can be said with some of these products that are badged as "automotive sound deadening".

Later,

Have a question about Second Skin? E-Mail me!

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