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Foreverbumpn and Resko1 rebuilt woofers reviewed, blown, and tore apart!


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i personally would always use all the needed screws instead of halfassing somethign myself. I rather somethign be late and great, then presented half assed and have excuses for it.

Hind sight is always 20/20...

I have a sub that Ken built, i actually have it on well over twice the power he rated. Its doing great, i was surprised to see some of the things Brian pointed out. The surround on my sub is the strongest i have ever seen, the cone and dust cap as well. I certainly will do business with him again.

There is another guy on the forums here that lives in Cali that PM'ed that had many issues with the subs Ken built him, They where Cactus motors the Rockford TRF syles, but Im not going to say any names, he can reply here if he wants too himself.

Anyways, 3hp motors, 4hp motors, no hp motors. all bolts should of been used imo

As for 3 motor bolts, it was sufficient. those motors dont weight more then 15# each.

So he is saying the ma motor is light, well it has a bit of weight to it imo.

Lets start out with the MA Audio HK motor, and the 12spoke basket with the 3 bolts, and its weight is 43.8 pounds

"the ones that dont way no more then 15 pounds each.....

2011-05-27052613.jpg

Sundown Z v1 motor and 6spoke 18inch basket, Ken used 6 bolts, and its weight is 42 pounds. Almost 2 pounds lighter and all 6bolts still being used.

2011-05-27052904.jpg

For shits and giggles, lets put up 1 of the 4 Sundown Nightshade v2 12s Im reconing, with a 12spoke basket and its weight is 65.4 pounds, using all 6 bolts and not a 4hp either of coarse.

2011-05-27052945.jpg

And then the MA Audio magnet with a nightshade v2 coil as I mentioned in one of the previous posts

http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/zz35/audiofanaticz2/2011-05-27052726.jpg

Looks like Im starting up my own recone service. Rainbow Recones is the name!!!

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This is quite bullshit and its because of this i will no longer be offering rebuilds to the general public. I told you brian. 1500rms tops. You had them wired to 3.6 ohms and for a week you clipped them with that bass slider you have on your eq that you use for a gain control. then at the show you wire the pair to .8 ohms on a saz 4500d and go to town full tilt and expect them woofers i specifically built for 1500 rms MAX each to handle over 3k? And yes, a saz4500d produces over 6k @1 ohm 14.4v and i know your voltage doesnt drop under 14 at full tilt.

yes, let me guess the 4500 makes 4000watts rms at 3.6 ohms too huh?

So lets look at the sundown specs:

RMS power, 2 ohm mono 2000W x 1CH

RMS power, 4 ohm mono 900W x 1CH

so at 3 ohms lets say the amp was putting out 1500watts, but that is before my almost 2X impedance rise (something you dont seem to be familiar with... :peepwall:

so 1500rms between 2 woofers is 750rms per woofer (again before the 2x impedance rise which is meaning my amp was rising to roughly 5-6ohms), and when I gave you a ride when you where moving to get your car, you smelt how bad they smelled with such little power.

Clipping, not a chance, that eq slider your talking about is nothing but a sub level adjustment. Like a remote gain knob (not a remote bass knob), or like a gain knob that works thru rca cords like i gave you a while ago.

To make it simple its just like the sub adjustment on a headunit that goes from 0 to 15 on most headunits. However since I loaned you my Sundown knob, and I no longer run a maxxlink this slider is how I adjust my preout voltage to my amp, that has less then 1/2 gain, 0 bassboost, a ssf of 22ish hz, and a lpf at 60hz

2011-05-27055234.jpg

AND NOW YOUR CLAIMING YOU TOLD ME 1500WRMS MAX PER SUB???????

FIRST BEFORE THEY WHERE BUILT YOU CLAIMED 1200 TO 1800WRMS EACH WHEN I WAS AT YOUR HOUSE

THEN ON MY FACEBOOK PAGE YOU SAID 1500WRMS FOR BOTH NO MORE NO LESS...

WTF IS 1500 WATTS RMS MAX??? SOUNDS LIKE A PEAK RATING TO ME....

IF DUDE KNEW HE WAS PAYING FOR A 750WATT PEAK 18INCH WOOFER, HE WOULD OF BOUGHT SOME SONYS OR DUAL FROM WALMART......

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In this above convo posted on page 1 of this thread:

Tavis is Resko1

Brian is me aka audiofanaticz

Matt is my buddy resko1 built the woofers for.

 

 

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Also remember the two 15inch Fi BL dual 1s with a flatwound coil and no other options took the same amp at 1 ohm with the same settings in the same box (but with adapters to make the 15inch woofers fit in my 18inch holes of my box) just fine for well over a week of straight pounding, without failing until they where sold to another person.

Seems odd to me that these built up speakers that are rated for 500-800watts rms more each then the Fi BLs failed literally within minutes, when the BLs never had a issue or even got stinky

 

 

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I wouldn't let one jackass stop you from doing what you are obviously good at.

Just my .02

Jackass, You dont even know me, let alone can you judge me or my reviews.

Shows your maturity level when you have to talk shit behind a computer!

seems like it turned into a 3 custom woofer builders VS audiofanatics thread

And that is fine..

Its clear as day of what is right and what is not right. There are many professionals here from shops all over, as well as other qualified audio enthusiasts that can tell what is and is not legit.

At least Ken aka Foreverbumpn admitted his mistakes in the other thread. Where as Resko1 is just making excuses after excuses.

Resko1, Foreverbumpn, and whoever else can say that "clipping" caused the coils to come undone and slinky like they did when that was not the case.

Hell I bet I just clipped the hell out of this nightshade v2 12 inch woofer today that had the coil slinky just like these subs did. Even tho the sub was plugged in to the wall and played on 110volts @ 60hz for over 15minutes pretty consistently.

But yea, if the coil slinkys like that its caused from clipping......... Even tho a wall socket is some of the cleanest unclipped power you can put to a woofer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ludEDlasBgs

 

 

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Haha, man I liked the Nightshade torture vid!

Just have one quick noob question, actually to verify a bet I made w/a friend.

The voltage coming out of an amplifier to the subs: AC or DC?

I bet him $20 that it is AC, but really I don't know?

Havent got a chance to pull the cover from my amp and put a meter on it.

But I noticed you called it AC earlier, but also have seen others call it DC.

Can you verify please? Thanks!


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no. Im sure it had 6 bolts when factory built. Standard pattern. It was an error on my part. I should have made them wait regardless of the daily questions.

Then what does this mean if im making excuses? I already admitted it was a hasty build.

anything else?

And tell Matt to come throw one through my window so i can beat his ass.

If you guys would have acted differently you would have fresh recones right now with 8 layer fw/ triple wall former, coils. free of charge. But instead, there's bash threads and video's not to mention your buddy's slick ass comments. all you had to do was call or text and say "hey, we both know this was a hasty build and the coils sucked, can i get rebuilds". Wouldn't have been an issue. And the RIGHT coils arrived already. But since they were needed super quick, i was forced to use the tc coils i had here. Now John's are gonna get built using the proper coils and bolts. Should have told Matt to chill. an extra week or 2 would have gotten him way better subs.

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Haha, man I liked the Nightshade torture vid!

Just have one quick noob question, actually to verify a bet I made w/a friend.

The voltage coming out of an amplifier to the subs: AC or DC?

I bet him $20 that it is AC, but really I don't know?

Havent got a chance to pull the cover from my amp and put a meter on it.

But I noticed you called it AC earlier, but also have seen others call it DC.

Can you verify please? Thanks!

You win...dc to amp...ac from amp to sub

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Haha, man I liked the Nightshade torture vid!

Just have one quick noob question, actually to verify a bet I made w/a friend.

The voltage coming out of an amplifier to the subs: AC or DC?

I bet him $20 that it is AC, but really I don't know?

Havent got a chance to pull the cover from my amp and put a meter on it.

But I noticed you called it AC earlier, but also have seen others call it DC.

Can you verify please? Thanks!

Yes, the power that an amplifier makes is AC Voltage and AC Current.

The amplifier is hooked up to a DC electrical system such as a car, and draws DC Current, to make the AC voltage and AC current the woofer needs.

no. Im sure it had 6 bolts when factory built. Standard pattern. It was an error on my part. I should have made them wait regardless of the daily questions.

Then what does this mean if im making excuses? I already admitted it was a hasty build.

anything else?

And tell Matt to come throw one through my window so i can beat his ass.

If you guys would have acted differently you would have fresh recones right now with 8 layer fw/ triple wall former, coils. free of charge. But instead, there's bash threads and video's not to mention your buddy's slick ass comments. all you had to do was call or text and say "hey, we both know this was a hasty build and the coils sucked, can i get rebuilds". Wouldn't have been an issue. And the RIGHT coils arrived already. But since they were needed super quick, i was forced to use the tc coils i had here. Now John's are gonna get built using the proper coils and bolts. Should have told Matt to chill. an extra week or 2 would have gotten him way better subs.

Matt is finally chilled out because I found him some BTLs dirt cheap, and I have the motors yet, so nothing bad happens with them.

You where at the same audio comp when the subs blew, and jokingly after they blew we said are you going to recone these for free, and you said no. So why are you trying to act as if you where going too now. lol makes no sense.

Matt has been bugging me for the longest time after he paid for the subs to be built, hence it is why I started asking you, because I was sick of him bugging me for something I had no control over

 

 

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