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where were you measuring voltage? what meter were you using?

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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i just have the stock volt meter in my truck and it hasnt gone below 14 since ive had the stereo in... and each battery when we used a volt meter that has the positives and negatives on it that my friend has idk what kind it is both batteries were getting almost 15 volts and when we checked the amp it was getting 15.2 volts to it

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ya, your doing that completely wrong. 1st off, the stock gauge wont react to quick drops so its completely useless here. 2nd, charging voltage is also useless here. we only care about voltage drop when the system is at full tilt.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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you should find out if you fried your amp. get yourself a DMM, digital multi meter. learn how to use it. then connect the probes to the remote wire and the amp ground. see if you get voltage when the HU is on.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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So my amps not blown, wooo! But my volts in my truck stay at almost 15 than drop when bass hits, my remote wire was loose but fixed that now nothing turns off but as soon as volts drop I turn my deck off. Does low volts mean I would need a new alt? Or would the 1/0 gauge wire fix the problem?

I know close to nothing about all this stuff this is my first stereo so sorry for bein such a noob

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The DMM is a fluke 12b*

1 ohm load dylan not a 2ohm and his amps 100% fine i put it too my 2 Dc lvl 4 15s and it hammered them just as well as my Aq.(just so everyone knows)

Edited by SleeperSierra

.ılı.——Volume——.ılı.

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Min- – – – – – – – -●Max

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