Jump to content

06 Civic Build - New Build List on page 60


Recommended Posts

Ok I made a mistake! I just went out and checked the tablets, and the power button, USB port, and the 3.5mm jack are all on the same end. The speakers are on the other end. So now that makes life way easier!

Now I just need to figure out how to power the two tablet chargers, the two E9 amplifiers, the Octava splitter, and the Samsung tablet from one unit, if possible.

I'll post up how i'm going to do all this when I get a chance to do some MS Paint drawings!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That sounds like a plan and if you run into a snag on powering I would hit up Snafu on here he may be able to create something that will fulfill all of your wishes.

2013 Dodge Charger

Build Log


1996 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0
Build Log

2005 Honda Civic LX Coupe

Build Log

SMD SUPER SELLER!!!!
My Selling Feedback

Dresig1_zps7acbddbb.gif

Dresig2_zpscfb11527.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok so I thought I'd just update a little bit on what's going on. I've been crazy busy again. Started working more overtime this week, and will be doing that for a while now. My wife's birthday is on the 23rd and I'm buying her a Samsung Galaxy 10.1 tablet, like mine. She's gone on and on about how she likes it better than the Ipad, her sister has one, and so I decided I'd get her one for her birthday from my daughters and I.

That being said, I'm doing a couple things here. I'm still working on the tablet install. What's going on with that? Well it's not on hold, but it's on hold. I have to get the dash taken apart and do a dry fit to make sure it's fitting well. I know I'm tight on the right side, and I want to make sure I don't have to cut out any tabs that will hold the bezel in. It's pretty simple to take the dash apart, but it takes time, like everything else, and I don't have much of that right now. But, once I do that, maybe friday night, then I can start getting it finished up. I still have the following to do:

- test fit

- make the side walls

- make the drc panel

- combine the front panel with the pan

- glass the whole thing

- fill it and sand it procedure

- figure out the actuator situation

- suede the inside

- paint it

So as you can see there's still some work to be done.

The A-Pillars are also kind of on hold. These are a little simpler, and maybe I can get a couple of minutes tonight to go out and test fit em. I need to make sure they're going to sit in there nice and tight. I'm a little concerned about the driver side because of the dash. It was pretty close to begin with, and while I think I'm going to miss it, it's going to be close regardless. Once that's done I have the following to do:

- put a layer of glass on the front (or do I need to do this? Someone please chime in. There's the grill cloth and 2 layers of resin on it. Needs another layer of resin at least, then filler to smooth out.)

- do a second and third coat of resin on the back panel.

- do a milkshake mixture for the interior

- fill, sand, and smooth procedure

- wire it up

- deadener

- make grill surround

- cover with suede

- install mid range and tweeter

So both of those, which are my major projects have quite a bit of work left on them. I'll start making some progress on this one for sure in the next couple of days.

Both of these projects should be getting progress on them very soon. Believe me folks, I'm at the point right now, where I want to get this thing done. I'm happy with all my designs, I've got the equipment for the most part, for just about everything. I'm pressing to figure out where I'm going to fit time in for it. Usually I'd just crunch time at night, but with working over time and getting up at 5am the next morning, it's too hard to do that anymore. I will start showing progress very very soon.

The newest project I eluded to the other day. I'm going to be putting the girl's kindle fires in the headrests for their enjoyment, as well as have them chargeable, and have the headphone ability via an external headphone amplifier on the arm rest. In order to have video from the front monitor, I'll be going with a single monitor in the center console area, custom mounted (SOMEHOW) for them to watch. The sound will be via the rear fill speakers. I'm trying to figure out how to incorporate the headphones for those too, but I don't see the point cause I can't really dual zone the tablet so whatever is on, we'll all have to listen too.

Here is the list of things for the Kindle install:

- make a mold of the head rests

- make a pan insert off the mold using the tablet, charger, and 3.5mm headphone jack.

- insert a wooden piece to fill in the old monitor holes and for the new mount to screw onto.

- make an external power button on the outside of the mount that will push the button on the tablet.

- make a mold of the front of the center console (why front instead of top angled? It has cup holders they use all the time.)

- using the mold, make a mount for the dual headphone amplifiers to mount to.

- cut out the center console front to accommodate the amplifiers.

- wire it all up

Snags and things I still have to decide:

- waiting on power solutions from a buddy of mine (but we're good on the power otherwise, for the kindles, the amplifiers, the converter for the HDMI signal, the main tablet up front, and a phone power jack.)

- How to do the headrest mounts that blend real well.

- Suede or paint the headphone amp mount

I can go through the monitor install, but I wont at the moment. There's lots of work to be done, and it's all gonna get going here very soon. The kindles are not a huge priority, however, now my kids know about them, and they're starting to bug me daily on them. So I'm going to have to bump that up, and get some money coming in and get the equipment (headphone amps, wires, etc). So that may jump up on the list.

The amp rack will get started very soon. That shouldn't take too much more work. I'm going to use the same rack I built, and remove the front piece, and attach an 1/8" ply piece to follow the round on it. Then it's a matter of the top plate and design. Then covering! So it's pretty simple really, just need time.

Sub box is fine, I need to make some alterations to get it to fit in there all the way, but right now it needs to be rebuilt out of birch. Then it's ready to be covered and installed!

Ok enough rambling by me. Like I said, I dig the designs, I'm very happy with it, and I'm ready to get moving on it. Life just keeps getting in the way! But, that's they way it goes sometimes!

Thanks for tuning in, reading, being patient, and all your comments! More to come very soon, I promise!

BTW - THOSE LRx AMPS ARE STILL FOR SALE! I REALLY NEED TO GET THOSE SOLD. I HAVE THE LRx 4.1k and both 1.1k's LEFT! SEE THE CLASSIFIED SECTIONS FOR MY THREAD! THAT WILL HELP GET THIS STUFF ROLLING ALSO CAUSE I'LL HAVE MORE MONEY FOR SUPPLIES!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had to print this to read it :lol:. That's a lot to do but good to see it's coming along :popcorn: can't wait to see the plan for the kindle build I already know it's going to be something cool.

2013 Dodge Charger

Build Log


1996 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0
Build Log

2005 Honda Civic LX Coupe

Build Log

SMD SUPER SELLER!!!!
My Selling Feedback

Dresig1_zps7acbddbb.gif

Dresig2_zpscfb11527.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ya it is. I'm excited to do it. I think it'll be easier than the galaxy.

My snag on the galaxy right now is the actuator. I don't need much as far as throw goes. I need like 2" max really. I was looking at this Firgelli Technologies PQ12 Miniature Actuator. It's the cheapest one I could find, not that that's why I chose it, but mainly cause it's size is very minute. The stroke is 20mm (.79"). The total size is 1.87" before stroke so 2.66" total. That's way small. The stroke is a little short too. I'm aiming for 2" of stroke, or at least 2" of space at the top.

Now, in theory, my pivot point is on the bottom and if I put the actuator anchor point in the middle of the pan vs the top, that should double my opening at the top correct? So, if I put it at the top and I have .79" there, if I drop it down half way on the pan to the middle point, I should then get 1.58" of opening. Correct?

The other one I'm looking at is a Firgelli Technologies L12 Actuator. It gives me 4 different stroke lengths, and with what's there I think the 50mm (1.96") would be my best bet. The whole unit, without the stroke length, is 103mm (4.05"). That's about perfect. I could mount that at the top and not worry about anything. Or get the 30mm (1.18") and mount it a little lower. The difference here is this one is about $30.00 - $35.00 more expensive. Not a big deal, but it's hard to wrap my head around 100.00 to make my tablet move in and out.

The other thing to think about here is security. The actuator locks in place when off. So you can't just pull out the tablet door. You'd have to break it. If you're in my car already, I'm gonna know about it so you're not gonna have much time. And if I get there while you're still in it, getting the tablet out is the least of your worries! LMAO!

Suggestions or thoughts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ya it is. I'm excited to do it. I think it'll be easier than the galaxy.

My snag on the galaxy right now is the actuator. I don't need much as far as throw goes. I need like 2" max really. I was looking at this Firgelli Technologies PQ12 Miniature Actuator. It's the cheapest one I could find, not that that's why I chose it, but mainly cause it's size is very minute. The stroke is 20mm (.79"). The total size is 1.87" before stroke so 2.66" total. That's way small. The stroke is a little short too. I'm aiming for 2" of stroke, or at least 2" of space at the top.

Now, in theory, my pivot point is on the bottom and if I put the actuator anchor point in the middle of the pan vs the top, that should double my opening at the top correct? So, if I put it at the top and I have .79" there, if I drop it down half way on the pan to the middle point, I should then get 1.58" of opening. Correct?

The other one I'm looking at is a Firgelli Technologies L12 Actuator. It gives me 4 different stroke lengths, and with what's there I think the 50mm (1.96") would be my best bet. The whole unit, without the stroke length, is 103mm (4.05"). That's about perfect. I could mount that at the top and not worry about anything. Or get the 30mm (1.18") and mount it a little lower. The difference here is this one is about $30.00 - $35.00 more expensive. Not a big deal, but it's hard to wrap my head around 100.00 to make my tablet move in and out.

The other thing to think about here is security. The actuator locks in place when off. So you can't just pull out the tablet door. You'd have to break it. If you're in my car already, I'm gonna know about it so you're not gonna have much time. And if I get there while you're still in it, getting the tablet out is the least of your worries! LMAO!

Suggestions or thoughts?

While planning my tablet (iPad or Xoom) build and following yours closely I thought about your actuator idea and I looked up those actuators but in the end I couldn't justify spending that much so I started to think about how to do something different and less expensive and I found an old tape deck receiver and it gave me an idea to use a tape deck style ejection scheme that hides my tablet behind a frame with glass that is securely sealed behind the dash so it can't be ripped out and have my ejection button hidden somewhere. The tablet would slide into a holder then I just push it closed my only problem is fitting the dock there as well but your idea seems most logical and easiest since you don't have to fabricate arms or a spring loaded strut that releases the door to reveal the tablet.

2013 Dodge Charger

Build Log


1996 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0
Build Log

2005 Honda Civic LX Coupe

Build Log

SMD SUPER SELLER!!!!
My Selling Feedback

Dresig1_zps7acbddbb.gif

Dresig2_zpscfb11527.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ya it's sort of the same thing I'm doing but I want it automated. But I hear what you're saying. I thought about a dvd player mechanism too, like the drawer that slides in and out, but I wouldn't know how to even begin to get that hooked up. I just emailed Firgelli to ask them some questions. I'll have my answers soon and make my decisions. It's only money right! Can't take it with you. But it's nice to have while you're here! LMAO!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ya it's sort of the same thing I'm doing but I want it automated. But I hear what you're saying. I thought about a dvd player mechanism too, like the drawer that slides in and out, but I wouldn't know how to even begin to get that hooked up. I just emailed Firgelli to ask them some questions. I'll have my answers soon and make my decisions. It's only money right! Can't take it with you. But it's nice to have while you're here! LMAO!

LOL Considering how big my next build is my budget is tight as hell but I want this to be done right so I will wait to see how your questions play out and funny you mention the DVD thing I actually took an old cd drive apart and played around with one. What I did was take the tray off and put two plastic sticks that would become the arm that would hold my frame in place and push it out when I flip a switch but the problem I had was the moving parts. Way to many and if something malfunctions then I have to pry it open plus its easier to pull open if someone wants to rob me. My other problem was the extension I couldn't control it and even gluing the shortest length I could the damn thing opened to far and didn't look like it could support my tablet being connected to the fram. Unfortunately my alarm will go off while I am at work but my car is on the 9th floor and I am on the 28th unless their slow as shit I won't have time to get to my car before someone is gone so I need this to be as secure as possible.

2013 Dodge Charger

Build Log


1996 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0
Build Log

2005 Honda Civic LX Coupe

Build Log

SMD SUPER SELLER!!!!
My Selling Feedback

Dresig1_zps7acbddbb.gif

Dresig2_zpscfb11527.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I emailed Firgelli Technologies and got all set up with what the best application was for me. I just need the money now and i'm all set. So the actuator situation is taken care of.

I got home tonight, and ran back out and test fitted the A-Pillars. That was unsuccessful. I think, judging by the looks of things, that it's only a few places in the back of the pod, where I resined it to seal it, that are hitting and preventing it from going all the way in. I can get it to go in and the clip to snap in place, but it pops right back out. Also, the lower part where the pillar meets the dash needs some sanding and work as well.

So, I'll see what I can get taken care of this weekend or Friday night. OH I almost forgot, the one spot where I was worried about it hitting the dash, clears by plenty of room. It'll look tight when it gets finished and covered, but it'll be just fine!

There it is. Now we're current! Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1136 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...