98crewcab Posted November 26, 2011 Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 aight fellas, hoping someone knows what I am talking about.....so I stretch material over the door panel and it adheres fine with the 3m spray adhesive. I get the lines I am looking for, sticks great. now as soon as I start spreading the resin, the 3m starts to let go and the shape is lost. is there a way to seal the fabric to protect the 3m bond? Just ordered a pneumatic stapler to help, but would like for the cleaner lines....thinking of spraying clear paint over it to seal the fabric, but wanting a better bond of the resin to the fabric..... thanks in advance for your help, searched all over the fiberglass section....lol 06 2500hd, 6.0L, 4l80e, 4wd, (muah work truck) 7" BDS HC lift kit (5) 37x13.5R18 Toyo Open Country M/Ts (5) 18x10 Moto Metal MO962 tablet in lieu of deck blue tooth interconnect to soundstream eq (for volume control and bass control) 4 Alpine type r 10's 6 cubes net, 80sqin's port, tuned to 33hz 2 brutus brx5000.5's 2 pairs 3" polk audio for a pillars 4 pairs polk audio 6.5 comps 1 pair 8" polk audio for mids 2 xspower d3400 batteries.....learning alot from meade and his circle of some of the baddest installers ive seen- thanks guys, for not being so cocky and posting the way it should be done!P.S. Thanks Steve....for the demo!!!! loud as fauk! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nine8SST Posted November 26, 2011 Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 I dont think there is......but you might be able to put masking tape over those spots and just glass over it. 1998 SS/T Ram Build Log - Kenwood KVT-514 and KNA-G510 Navigation - 2 DC Level 3 12" - Components??? - Sundown ??? - Sundown??? - Knu Konceptz - Second Skin Dampy Pro - XS D6500 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rell Posted November 26, 2011 Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 Heat from the resin as it cures is releasing the glue. Get your yellow pages out and look up a local hobby RC shop and buy some CA glue. With fabric straight to wood or fiberglass you don't need any Kicker at least in my experience... fabric onto plastic etc use a spray kicker to instantly cure it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted November 26, 2011 Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 One way might help is by mixing up some bondo and trying to get it in the space between the fabric and the base material. That is the only way I can think of right now. I had the same problem with my kicks that you are describing, but didn't get to figure it out really. Or you might try to soak the material in sections away from the edge (where the glue is) and when the rest is cured lay down the resin where the glue is now, possibly keep its shape. formerly known as Blue86f150 its a 4th order just because its tuned in the 40z doesnt mean it wont reach down and jiggle your balls at sub 30 hz frequencies. Regardless if they were dipped platinum and were stuffed in Beyonce's twat.....way too fucking exspensive this sux camel dicks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-Fizzy Posted November 26, 2011 Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 Just head over to R/C hobby and pick up some CA glue. Don't be a lazy fuck under construction I hate People with crappy primered cars rolling on hubcaps that are louder then me. u hate c-fizzy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94retta(219) Posted November 26, 2011 Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 Hot glue worked for me! BUILD LOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EpicenterDesigns Posted November 26, 2011 Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 This is gonna turn into a book, so I apoligize in advance. IMO, using an upholstery stapler gives you the cleanest lines. Dedicated upholstery staplers shoot fine wire staples that don't crack the plastics (in most case), and penetrate cleanly. http://www.yourautotrim.com/fascostaplegun.html Use a small fine staple and you won't have many issues http://www.yourautotrim.com/fa3x5list.html Now, I know everyone can't run out and buy a quality stapler right off so an adhesive is needed to hold the material down. It can be done. I still use an adhesive when the time is correct. Staples don't fit in everywhere. As mentioned, CA will hold up to the heat generated by resins hardening. But CA can be an expensive glue. I buy mine in large quantities and spend $80 for 32oz. Thats a pretty good price. Activator sold seperatly. If you have to use a spray adhesive, I recommend Permatex spray adhesive in the orange can with a blue top. They make another in a blue can with white top that isn't as good. Orange can blue top is what you want. 3M is ok as long as it is the Super90. Anything else is garbage household crap for scrapbooking old ladies. Now if you use a spray adhesive, it will let go when resin hits it. The trick is to spray and stretch the material past what will be resined. If it is on a door panel or kick or something, spray it and wrap the material around to the back side of the pieces and don't allow resin on the back side. Hope that helps. Building The Best.....Repairing The Rest The bitter after-taste of a poor quality job will last far longer than the sweetness of that cheap price! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B Slaps Posted November 26, 2011 Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 Just head over to R/C hobby and pick up some CA glue. Don't be a lazy fuck X2 this is how i do it. I Rock 4 Doors 4 More Whores! SMD SUPER SELLER my seller feedback http://www.stevemead...-mama-feedback/ more seller feedback http://www.stevemead...-slaps-yo-mama/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rell Posted November 26, 2011 Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 (edited) Permatex FTW! I bought an 8oz of ca glue for $20 locally, prob could have got it cheaper if I hitup a few different R/C shops but I was lazy. Also probably could have got a better deal online, but that's cost of shipping + time waiting. 10min drive and I got CA in my hands. That 8oz bottle was more then enough for me with all 4 doors and my kick panels. Still got lots more left. I need a staple gun asap. Edited November 26, 2011 by Rell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98crewcab Posted November 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 Just head over to R/C hobby and pick up some CA glue. Don't be a lazy fuck lol, guess what I am STILL working on....lol This is gonna turn into a book, so I apoligize in advance. IMO, using an upholstery stapler gives you the cleanest lines. Dedicated upholstery staplers shoot fine wire staples that don't crack the plastics (in most case), and penetrate cleanly. http://www.yourautotrim.com/fascostaplegun.html Use a small fine staple and you won't have many issues http://www.yourautotrim.com/fa3x5list.html Now, I know everyone can't run out and buy a quality stapler right off so an adhesive is needed to hold the material down. It can be done. I still use an adhesive when the time is correct. Staples don't fit in everywhere. As mentioned, CA will hold up to the heat generated by resins hardening. But CA can be an expensive glue. I buy mine in large quantities and spend $80 for 32oz. Thats a pretty good price. Activator sold seperatly. If you have to use a spray adhesive, I recommend Permatex spray adhesive in the orange can with a blue top. They make another in a blue can with white top that isn't as good. Orange can blue top is what you want. 3M is ok as long as it is the Super90. Anything else is garbage household crap for scrapbooking old ladies. Now if you use a spray adhesive, it will let go when resin hits it. The trick is to spray and stretch the material past what will be resined. If it is on a door panel or kick or something, spray it and wrap the material around to the back side of the pieces and don't allow resin on the back side. Hope that helps. very informative, thanks tons for sharing. ordered a gun last night, not as nice or pricey as the one you mentioned, will have to save up for that bad boy:) but hope the cheepo gun will get me through this project.....online now looking for CA glue, pics of door panels in soon! Thanks guys, for all the quick responses, didnt expect soo many to answer, guess thats just one of the many reasons I love this site so much!!! 06 2500hd, 6.0L, 4l80e, 4wd, (muah work truck) 7" BDS HC lift kit (5) 37x13.5R18 Toyo Open Country M/Ts (5) 18x10 Moto Metal MO962 tablet in lieu of deck blue tooth interconnect to soundstream eq (for volume control and bass control) 4 Alpine type r 10's 6 cubes net, 80sqin's port, tuned to 33hz 2 brutus brx5000.5's 2 pairs 3" polk audio for a pillars 4 pairs polk audio 6.5 comps 1 pair 8" polk audio for mids 2 xspower d3400 batteries.....learning alot from meade and his circle of some of the baddest installers ive seen- thanks guys, for not being so cocky and posting the way it should be done!P.S. Thanks Steve....for the demo!!!! loud as fauk! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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