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Issues when replacing newer GM truck alternator?


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The way I see it you have a few options...

1) Run all older style AD alts and deal with a charge warning on the dash

- Not sure if there are any other negatives to this but we all run volt meters anyways.

2) Run one alt for your truck and the rest to the system

- You loose out on one alt, but most run the truck + mid/high off that one

3) Run all of them off the PCM

- This is how I run and voltage ranges from 12.8-15.9 (start), but generally in the high 13's

4) Get an MLA

3+4 is how I went, but the MLA isn't in yet. One day I'll get off my ass and get it in there.

*Note: If you have a tow button or a tow package of any kind you can turn off economy mode (economy mode charges low or stops charging to save fuel). When you see your voltage drop into the mid to low 13's or less hit the tow button and wait a minute, it should jump back up or turning on the headlights in some models does it as well. Yes I know your lights are always on... Turning the switch matters ;)

I would assume this would work and I plan on getting the VCM from MechMan but would this eliminate the issue? I don't care about any ghetto light I'll just disconnect it. I'm worried about like you said the charging issues or anything else associated.

Thanks for your help guys! These trucks are not simple by any means with the sensors they utilize...

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The way I see it you have a few options...

1) Run all older style AD alts and deal with a charge warning on the dash

- Not sure if there are any other negatives to this but we all run volt meters anyways.

2) Run one alt for your truck and the rest to the system

- You loose out on one alt, but most run the truck + mid/high off that one

3) Run all of them off the PCM

- This is how I run and voltage ranges from 12.8-15.9 (start), but generally in the high 13's

4) Get an MLA

3+4 is how I went, but the MLA isn't in yet. One day I'll get off my ass and get it in there.

*Note: If you have a tow button or a tow package of any kind you can turn off economy mode (economy mode charges low or stops charging to save fuel). When you see your voltage drop into the mid to low 13's or less hit the tow button and wait a minute, it should jump back up or turning on the headlights in some models does it as well. Yes I know your lights are always on... Turning the switch matters ;)

I would assume this would work and I plan on getting the VCM from MechMan but would this eliminate the issue? I don't care about any ghetto light I'll just disconnect it. I'm worried about like you said the charging issues or anything else associated.

Thanks for your help guys! These trucks are not simple by any means with the sensors they utilize...

Vcm will not work for the newer trucks.

Best bet is to run three separate h/o alts and keep the stock for the truck

2014 Chevy Silverado Crewcab

1994 Chevy Full Size blazer

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The way I see it you have a few options...

1) Run all older style AD alts and deal with a charge warning on the dash

- Not sure if there are any other negatives to this but we all run volt meters anyways.

2) Run one alt for your truck and the rest to the system

- You loose out on one alt, but most run the truck + mid/high off that one

3) Run all of them off the PCM

- This is how I run and voltage ranges from 12.8-15.9 (start), but generally in the high 13's

4) Get an MLA

3+4 is how I went, but the MLA isn't in yet. One day I'll get off my ass and get it in there.

*Note: If you have a tow button or a tow package of any kind you can turn off economy mode (economy mode charges low or stops charging to save fuel). When you see your voltage drop into the mid to low 13's or less hit the tow button and wait a minute, it should jump back up or turning on the headlights in some models does it as well. Yes I know your lights are always on... Turning the switch matters ;)

I would assume this would work and I plan on getting the VCM from MechMan but would this eliminate the issue? I don't care about any ghetto light I'll just disconnect it. I'm worried about like you said the charging issues or anything else associated.

Thanks for your help guys! These trucks are not simple by any means with the sensors they utilize...

Vcm will not work for the newer trucks.

Best bet is to run three separate h/o alts and keep the stock for the truck

It won't work at all? So purchasing the VCM is a waste? I just hate the thought of having to waste a perfectly good spot where I can has moar power!

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The way I see it you have a few options...

1) Run all older style AD alts and deal with a charge warning on the dash

- Not sure if there are any other negatives to this but we all run volt meters anyways.

2) Run one alt for your truck and the rest to the system

- You loose out on one alt, but most run the truck + mid/high off that one

3) Run all of them off the PCM

- This is how I run and voltage ranges from 12.8-15.9 (start), but generally in the high 13's

4) Get an MLA

3+4 is how I went, but the MLA isn't in yet. One day I'll get off my ass and get it in there.

*Note: If you have a tow button or a tow package of any kind you can turn off economy mode (economy mode charges low or stops charging to save fuel). When you see your voltage drop into the mid to low 13's or less hit the tow button and wait a minute, it should jump back up or turning on the headlights in some models does it as well. Yes I know your lights are always on... Turning the switch matters ;)

I would assume this would work and I plan on getting the VCM from MechMan but would this eliminate the issue? I don't care about any ghetto light I'll just disconnect it. I'm worried about like you said the charging issues or anything else associated.

Thanks for your help guys! These trucks are not simple by any means with the sensors they utilize...

Vcm will not work for the newer trucks.

Best bet is to run three separate h/o alts and keep the stock for the truck

It won't work at all? So purchasing the VCM is a waste? I just hate the thought of having to waste a perfectly good spot where I can has moar power!

Nope, already looked into that as soon as I bought the truck.

I know it sucks, but slap a quad kit an run three big alts that's a good amount of power

2014 Chevy Silverado Crewcab

1994 Chevy Full Size blazer

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The problem that you run into with the newer GM vehicles is that most have an "economy" mode that will drop the charging voltage of the alt after a bit. You'll end up charging at 12.9 volts on the freeway. The only way I've seen this fixed is to do what they said and turn the lights or tow button on. But the quad alt kit with a stock alt is a good idea as well.

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So it charges at a lower rate? Im kind of pissed now that I spent $400+ on an alt for my truck. Anything I can do. suck that they dont let you know about isuess like this before they sell it.

In an application like this a high output alternator can keep the voltage stable when your OEM will allow it to drop. The unit will still produce more amperage than your OEM unit and will still help you keep your voltage up.

Amperage is what a high output alternator provides as indicated by better voltage stability.

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I believe it can also be fixed with an externally regulated alt. Not sure on that one tho.

I have sent multiple e-mail back and forth with Chris over at Missing Link Audio aka MLA and they have a module for the newer Chevys that keeps voltage between 14.7-15.2 is what he told me. May be the only solution if your running one alt and don't want any codes and lights on the dash.

UnderLok get that MLA in and give a review :good:

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I believe it can also be fixed with an externally regulated alt. Not sure on that one tho.

I have sent multiple e-mail back and forth with Chris over at Missing Link Audio aka MLA and they have a module for the newer Chevys that keeps voltage between 14.7-15.2 is what he told me. May be the only solution if your running one alt and don't want any codes and lights on the dash.

UnderLok get that MLA in and give a review :good:

I'm hoping that the externally regulated alts will help... But who knows

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