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L shaped port tuning


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what about 35hz with 4.5cu net, 4.5" port thats 21" long

2010 Cobalt LT Coupe

Subs: 2 American bass XFL 12s

Amp: Crescendo BC3500D

Big 3 in 1/0awg

29hz box

stinger volt meter

2nd battery Deka 9a31

pioneer DEH-9400BH

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Two 4in aero ports 8 inches long tunes you to 32.4

Partsexpress.com sells them ultra cheap. hella easy to install :drink40:

#Problem solved

Ohhh and i did this on torres calc

:No: 2 4" aeros is only enough port for 1 12.

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what about 35hz with 4.5cu net, 4.5" port thats 21" long

If you have fixed external dims you can't decide Vb, for a 35Hz tuning this could work:

Enclosure Specifications:

Fb = 35,01 Hz

Vb = 4,34 ft^3

Subwoofer Mounting = Front Mounted

External Height = 15 in

External Width = 33 in

External Depth = 25 in

Port Width = 5 1/4 in

Cut List:

* All Dimensions in Inches.

* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

External Enclosure Parts:

Front & Back = 33 x 15

Left & Right Sides = 23 1/2 x 13 1/2

Top & Bottom = 33 x 23 1/2

L Port Internal Assembly Parts:

Front to Back = 18 1/4 x 13 1/2

Extension = 1 5/16 x 13 1/2

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2 4" aeros is only enough port for 1 12.

I don't see what type of 12" subs they are, but 2 4" areos will work with a pair of 12's.

Ever see the great 12" challenge a few years ago? They were doing crazy numbers with a 12" BTL on a few thousand watts and a single 4" aero.

PSI ran a pair of MT 15" with 4 4" aeros and did mid 150's playing music. . .

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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I love that the TITLE of this post is L-Shaped tuning and dudes are suggesting Aeros. So let's suggest directions that he WANTS to head, not somewhere he doesn't want to go. I believe we got him lined out with box dimensions and port size.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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Just use the box calculators all over the net. RE has a nice one for L shaped slot ports. Your driver manufacturer should give the total displacement of the woofer. And for bracing you just get the volume of the brace and add it in there. Your box should be able to give enough room for however many cu. ft you want to do + driver and bracing displacement.

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The one from RE is crap. I have corrected at least 10 L-shaped ports for people who have used it. . .

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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The one from RE is crap. I have corrected at least 10 L-shaped ports for people who have used it. . .

Yeah it doesn't take displacements into consideration and always acts like its 3-5 Hz lower than it actually is. It gives a good idea on visual though.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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ok i measured my trunk and everything and found out that 33 will not fit nicely. so i went down to 32.5" width x 15"high x 25"deep and got 21" of port length for about 35.36hz with 13.7in of port area per foot. 4.41 net volume

2010 Cobalt LT Coupe

Subs: 2 American bass XFL 12s

Amp: Crescendo BC3500D

Big 3 in 1/0awg

29hz box

stinger volt meter

2nd battery Deka 9a31

pioneer DEH-9400BH

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok i measured my trunk and everything and found out that 33 will not fit nicely. so i went down to 32.5" width x 15"high x 25"deep and got 21" of port length for about 35.36hz with 13.7in of port area per foot. 4.41 net volume

Sounds good, that should definitely work.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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