Lakeshow94 Posted March 27, 2016 Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 how do i do the big 3 upgrade using a digital battery terminal only for the positive with my battery being under my backseat? i have a 2001 buick lesabre custom. You run the same cable the same way just longer 1999 Lexus GS 300 Pioneer DEH-80PRS Singer 240 Amp (Will be installed later) Northstar Group 31 & 24 Sundown SCV-4000 Rockford T400-4 2 12" CT Sound Meso CT Sounds 6.5 Meso Components CT Sounds Tropo 6.5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fosgate36 Posted March 27, 2016 Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 how do i do the big 3 upgrade using a digital battery terminal only for the positive with my battery being under my backseat? i have a 2001 buick lesabre custom. You run the same cable the same way just longer ok I'm new to this if you could give me a step by step set up or a diagram I would appreciate it. I have side post battery with the option of top post which is what I want to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3vil Posted March 27, 2016 Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 Read the very first post in this topic and do what it says. Doesn't matter if your battery is one inch away from your alt, or if it's in the rear of a truck bed. All the battery placement affects is the length of wire needed and the difficulty of running said wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awiki Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 I have a question on this . I have a 73 C10 and my power from battery goes straight to starter and then to alternator. The only ground I see goes from battery to engine block. I just ordered the xs big 3 kit I want to clean all of this wiring up . All of the instructions say go from battery to alternator . Does anyone have any thought on running the current way or going from battery to alternator ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabe Posted January 8, 2017 Report Share Posted January 8, 2017 On 4/23/2014 at 11:05 PM, AvionicsTek said: ) Running your wire from the alternator all the way to your battery and then putting a fuse holder there defeats the purpose of the fuse all together. Again... The fuse is there to protect the wiring, so it doesn't make much sense to put it at the other end of the wiring in which it is supposed to protect. The fuse holder should be as close to the alternator as possible, because the alternator is the source of power. If the alternator spikes, it will blow the fuse, almost instantly, a few inches from the alternator, and no harm should come to the wiring. Otherwise, with the fuse being that far from the alternator means that if the alternator spikes (and you're not using appropriately sized wire for the highest of possible loads), it will burn the wiring, melt the fuse holder, and the fuse will probably still be intact after the fire department has left the scene. This is the same reason we put fuse/breaker, for amplifier power cables, are near the battery, and not near the amp. The battery is the power source (or buffer, rather) for the amp, and should the amp spike and overdraw current, it will blow the fuse or trip the breaker at the battery, and leave the wiring intact. So, in short... Cable terminated to positive post on alternator, directly to fuse/breaker close to alternator, then routed from fuse/breaker and terminated at battery's positive post, then wiring from battery positive post is terminated to fuse/breaker close to battery, then wiring routed from battery fuse/breaker and terminated to distribution blocks (near capacitors, amps, etc.), then routed from dist. blocks and terminated at capacitors, amps, etc. DIRECTLY after every power SOURCE (alternator or battery), there should be a breaker/fuse to protect the wiring from that point to the next. is this accurate? ^^^^ sounds like it this is my first build, i have been waiting 4-5 years to have this done 95 chevy 2 door tahoe 5.7 Xs power d3400 Singer 275amp alternator Big 3 - all Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks 0ga/ knu Fuses an holders Sundown SAE-1500d Mbquart onyx OA800.4 Stinger 4400 series RCAs and stinger volt meter Fi Q NEO 18, 7.5 cubes tuned 32hz Pioneer MVH-X690BS H/U Kicker CSS 6.5 comp sets in front doors Kicker KSC 4x10 coaxials in rear GTMAT and FAT MAT deadner Xenon 10k Blue HIDs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted January 8, 2017 Report Share Posted January 8, 2017 What? A fuse at the alt? Ok then you need two because you need one at the battery too. Sorry I stopped reading after that. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyy Posted June 27, 2019 Report Share Posted June 27, 2019 Hey guys sorry to revive an old thread but I have a question. For the engine to ground, it says to grab a bolt from the engine and ground it to the frame. Does it matter which bolt on the engine it is, or is it better if it’s from a certain part of the engine (timing cover, actual block) etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronT Posted August 22, 2019 Report Share Posted August 22, 2019 I just read thru this for shits n giggles I can't understand all the confusion ffs You need to touch engine to chassis at some point and also ground battery there. And battery to alt Sheesh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David144 Posted February 14, 2020 Report Share Posted February 14, 2020 Thank you . This forum is very informative. 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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