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Big 3 with 4awg on stock electrical


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There are creative ways to hide the wires, doesn't have to be the floor, and plus I feel that the less wires you have to use, the better.

2003 Kia Sorento

Team Subsonic Lows
Team Bassin' on a Budget


2016 Rebuild Under Construction

Best score: 150.2 at 40hz (3k, 2 Custom HDC3 15's) Usaci style(door open, in the kick)

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Lgzmax77 has a cobalt with like 5 runs of 4 gauge in his car. Ask him how he did it. 0 gauge would be easier though

Edit: you can use some PVC pipe to protect the wires. I'd find a way to seal the ends though so no shit can get in it. Something like expanding foam aka great stuff.

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If you don't want to run 1/0 in your car and your afraid to run it under your car for whatever reason. Go buy 1/0 welding cable, its durable as hell and would be perfectly fine under your car. Or don't listen to anyone and do it your way, since I'm sure you know what your doing. :shrug:

*Rebuid in progress*

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no you will be fine with the salt and stuff from the winter and the roads. What kind of 4awg we talkin about?

Clip city bitch, clip clip city bitch. 10's, 12's, 15's, goin up in flames bitch.

TaylorFade, on 02 Jul 2013 - 9:38 PM, said:

Go back to that place, ask to speak to that dude again, look him dead in the eye and then.... pop him in the snot box.

Tell him T-Fade sent you.

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no you will be fine with the salt and stuff from the winter and the roads. What kind of 4awg we talkin about?

X2, That's what power wire is made for.. To carry high currents and be very durable. But try telling the OP that lol :drink40:

*Rebuid in progress*

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i guess i will try to use 0awg but but my alt is impossible to get too so i would have to do it professionally. and i have 20feet of used 0awg but in some parts the insulation is kinda burned. and i have a deka 9a31 but i dont have a battery isolator. are they expensive?

2010 Cobalt LT Coupe

Subs: 2 American bass XFL 12s

Amp: Crescendo BC3500D

Big 3 in 1/0awg

29hz box

stinger volt meter

2nd battery Deka 9a31

pioneer DEH-9400BH

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If the insulation isnt cut or melted, then it should be fine. I mean, 4 gauge will be fine if you do multiple runs. Its all fucking copper for christs sake. Its not like there's a magical difference between 0 and 4 gauge besides more strands

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Threads like this make me wonder . . . The OP asks a question and every answer so far is laden with opinion. Better yet, nobody has addressed his question. In some cases a few of you are even offended that he didn't do exactly what you've told him to do. Guys, take a step back for a minute - holy cow.

This vehicle has the battery located in the trunk and the alternator is apparently quite difficult to access. The charge lead is obviously quite long in this vehicle. I would offer that we need to know more about the exact layout of the stock wiring before drawing any conclusions about what we need to do to improve it. Since I've not worked on one of these, maybe someone can offer:

- What is the gauge of the stock cable from the battery positive (+) to the front of the vehicle?

- Where does this cable go - does it go to starter directly or to a distribution point first?

- What is the gauge of the stock charge lead?

- Where does this cable go - does it go to to the battery directly or to a distribution point - possibly the same as above?

If anyone knows the answers to those questions, then this is the first step to answering the OP's question.

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