stipek Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 This video has the formula's and is fairly easy to understand what total electrical requirements you need. Quote Headunit - Sony DSX-200X Subs - (2) Modified American Bass 18's Monoamp - DD M4 Front Stage - CDT HD62-AS components with 4 Crescendo PWX 6.5 4 Channel Amp - Hifonics ZRX1000.4 Cadence 0 gauge Singer 275 amp Alt D7500 XS Power battery Quad 1/0 input Toolmaker terminals SMD OM-1 RGB LEDs BUILD LOG CURRENT ABOVE SETUP http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/191602-2003-bravada-2-18s-ab-dd-xs-singer/ BUILD LOG (2 MTX 7512's)http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1[/size] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXdriver11 Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 My recommendation (because im running the same equipment at the moment) put the largest batt up front that you can fit and throw a d31 in the rear. Also big 3 if you havent, and 1 run + and - to the rear batt. You should be having very little voltage drop off of that setup. And trust that T1500-1 with the right power will bang hard.. Quote Rebuild Log with the SMD CURRENT.. Honda Accord Coupe Porsche Cayenne S Lexus CT200 Lexus ES300 (sold) 99 Lexus RX 300 (sold)ADDING Honda - Hertz setup, more to come Porsche - Fi BL, XS Power, more to comecoming soon..peep the old rebuild log of the Lexus RX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted March 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 (edited) your trying to make this wayyy more complicated than need be for real replace the underhood battery a good regualr wet cell will work if need be and do a single 60 to 100ah battery in the back simple I really dont get how I am making it complicated, I am just trying to find an accurate way to find out how much battery I need. That is what I want to do, replace the under the hood batt, and add 1-2 more in the back as needed. This video has the formula's and is fairly easy to understand what total electrical requirements you need. TY! My recommendation (because im running the same equipment at the moment) put the largest batt up front that you can fit and throw a d31 in the rear. Also big 3 if you havent, and 1 run + and - to the rear batt. You should be having very little voltage drop off of that setup. And trust that T1500-1 with the right power will bang hard.. 9x5x7.5 Is the largest my front is, and most of their batts won't fit that. Most are just a bit over 5in wide. Also a d3100 won't fit in the back, Like I said I have space requirements. 12x5x12 5.5x8x12 Is my rear dimensions I have on either side. I can only use one of the two for each side if used. Edit: I was thinking about this, See if I can squeeze http://4xspower.com/d975/ under the hood. And get http://4xspower.com/d5100/ in the back. And if I need it, a D1500R on the other side. Edited March 21, 2012 by RooTxBeeR Quote On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted March 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 Ok So far with my calculations, with a D975 up front, and 2 D5100's Ill be able to supply about 1500W off the batteries.With the 225A alt I will have, that wil do 3k itself. My car only has lights, no AC very old so I am going to assume it isn't going to take all that much form here. So from this I think the set up should do well with those 3 batts and alt. Am I correct? Quote On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vetkilr01 Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 This video has the formula's and is fairly easy to understand what total electrical requirements you need. This was very very useful. Thank you very much my friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stipek Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 Your Welcome. Quote Headunit - Sony DSX-200X Subs - (2) Modified American Bass 18's Monoamp - DD M4 Front Stage - CDT HD62-AS components with 4 Crescendo PWX 6.5 4 Channel Amp - Hifonics ZRX1000.4 Cadence 0 gauge Singer 275 amp Alt D7500 XS Power battery Quad 1/0 input Toolmaker terminals SMD OM-1 RGB LEDs BUILD LOG CURRENT ABOVE SETUP http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/191602-2003-bravada-2-18s-ab-dd-xs-singer/ BUILD LOG (2 MTX 7512's)http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1[/size] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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