Lucky4Designs Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 I apologize for the rough sketch, while I'm not an electrical buff, I think I may have gotten down how I want to run my system. The thickest red/gray lines represent 1/0 wire, medium sized lines for 4 AWG, and thinner lines for 8 AWG. I did leave a couple things out on accident though, such as the battery isolator between the main and aux battery, the cut-off switch for the sub amps, and on the D1200 positive post, the very top 1/0 run going off to the side is the alternator + to battery +. I have the Big Three already done, but I'm just curious as to whether not my 80A alt will able to charge both batteries temporarily until I get either a DC Power or Mechman alt? Does everything look right otherwise to you guys? P.S- Running a cut-off switch on the sub amps because here in Kansas, if bass is heard from 20ft away, you get stuck with a $300 noise violation and disturbing the peace ticket. I see popo, subs no-go! Lol Quote 2001 Toyota Corolla CE: 4x Crescendo PWX6.5's 2x Crescendo FT1-SE's 1x DC Audio lvl 2 M1 8 (looking for more) Slot port box 0.7ft^3 @ 31.77hz Rockford Fosgate R750.1 1/0 Knu wiring all around Looking for XS Power D1200 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freshman6969 Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 (edited) first off, you dont need to fuse grounds, second drop the distro block for the 1000.1D's just get 0-4g reducers, itll lower the resistance in the line and allow your amps to get a tad bit more power(thats just the way id do it personally, to each there own, itll also be cheaper) third, you CAN do the cut off switch, but i personally like using the PAC LC1 bass knob, its an inline rca bass knob, i dont see why it wouldent work with two amps and idk where that 3rd run of power is going at the top, just seems to be gone lol oh and run the 4 channels off the rear batt aswell and me personally, i ground the back battery to the frame aswell as running a ground from the front, some do some dont, again to each there own edit: im uploading a pic now of what the best way to do it is, minus the reducers for the ease Edited April 5, 2012 by Freshman6969 Quote Legal TL scores145.6 on the dash sealed up in the low 40hz area with the port out145.5 on the dash sealed up @30hz with the port inless then 1k clamped on a 3.5k! Why would you EVER WANT flex?huh?...flex is what can make the lows lower and more air being pushed correct? My FeedbackJeep-BuildlogPT LOSER buildlog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new guy Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 you dont have to fuse the ground wires because no current is going through them. other then that everything looks good to me, and the 80amp alt may work for a while but you will have a horrible voltage drop at full tilt Quote *current* 1991 honda crx si 2 skar audio 12s pioneer 6.5s dual 400 watt amp audio technix db 1/0 wiring kit. dual head unit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMERICAN BASSHEAD Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 witch battery is in the front? is it ur daylie driver? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALPINE408 Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 dont need a batt isolator Quote Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
988216855 Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 the third power wire up on the first battery is probably going to the the alt i'm guessing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky4Designs Posted April 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 first off, you dont need to fuse grounds, second drop the distro block for the 1000.1D's just get 0-4g reducers, itll lower the resistance in the line and allow your amps to get a tad bit more power(thats just the way id do it personally, to each there own, itll also be cheaper) third, you CAN do the cut off switch, but i personally like using the PAC LC1 bass knob, its an inline rca bass knob, i dont see why it wouldent work with two amps and idk where that 3rd run of power is going at the top, just seems to be gone lol oh and run the 4 channels off the rear batt aswell Oh wow, I completely forgot about the bass knob. *Slaps-self silly*. This is just a rough draft, and that 3rd run off the top is supposed to be the alt + to battery + lol The only thing that concerns me about the 0-4 reducers is I hear a lot of complaints about the stud not fitting and how close the terminals are together that the jackets of the wires don't allow them to fit. I'll look into it though. you dont have to fuse the ground wires because no current is going through them. other then that everything looks good to me, and the 80amp alt may work for a while but you will have a horrible voltage drop at full tilt I knew I'd have some pretty raging voltage drop, but I have plenty of time to get everything together. Hell by the time I have all of my parts, DC will probably have already released the '98 - '02 Corolla 320A alt haha! Quote 2001 Toyota Corolla CE: 4x Crescendo PWX6.5's 2x Crescendo FT1-SE's 1x DC Audio lvl 2 M1 8 (looking for more) Slot port box 0.7ft^3 @ 31.77hz Rockford Fosgate R750.1 1/0 Knu wiring all around Looking for XS Power D1200 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky4Designs Posted April 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 witch battery is in the front? is it ur daylie driver? The front batt is a D1200, XS recommended it as the main battery and said it's what many of their Corolla enthusiasts use. Quote 2001 Toyota Corolla CE: 4x Crescendo PWX6.5's 2x Crescendo FT1-SE's 1x DC Audio lvl 2 M1 8 (looking for more) Slot port box 0.7ft^3 @ 31.77hz Rockford Fosgate R750.1 1/0 Knu wiring all around Looking for XS Power D1200 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freshman6969 Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 dont mind my epic paint skills, hope this helps, if you have any questions just pm me id be glad to help Quote Legal TL scores145.6 on the dash sealed up in the low 40hz area with the port out145.5 on the dash sealed up @30hz with the port inless then 1k clamped on a 3.5k! Why would you EVER WANT flex?huh?...flex is what can make the lows lower and more air being pushed correct? My FeedbackJeep-BuildlogPT LOSER buildlog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky4Designs Posted April 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 dont mind my epic paint skills, hope this helps, if you have any questions just pm me id be glad to help That looks like it'll be a lot easier, and it would help me clean up the main battery a bit too. It's hard enough to shut my hood with my Big Three done lol. Gotta put my fab skills to work and lower the battery tray a bit as well. As the whole build sits right now, the box is becoming the biggest issue. I've never seen a Corolla with four 15's in it, and I want to do it! I'll PM you some pics and measurements of what I'm working with so far, going out to take the pics now. Quote 2001 Toyota Corolla CE: 4x Crescendo PWX6.5's 2x Crescendo FT1-SE's 1x DC Audio lvl 2 M1 8 (looking for more) Slot port box 0.7ft^3 @ 31.77hz Rockford Fosgate R750.1 1/0 Knu wiring all around Looking for XS Power D1200 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.