Jump to content

the ultimate answer on solder vs crimp


Recommended Posts

I'm kinda new to this but wouldn't it be a good idea to dip the stripped wire into hot liquid solder to get it good and solid with plenty of solder (for the last step), then slide on your connector and crimp it with a hydraulic crimp tool, and then reheat the connection to form a "perfect" bond between the wire and the connector. To me it seems as though that would be the ultimate connection, it would be a best of both worlds scenario.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Unfortunately that sort of method yields worse than the worst of both worlds.

You'll crimp it, it won't fuse to itself, then you melt the solder and the pressure holding it in place melts with it. You could pull the wire right out.

You have the mess of soldering, the financial investment of crimping, and no results to show for it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
On 12/26/2015 at 8:07 PM, JSavell said:

damn that's cheap.

How does that thing compare to my old 8 ton crimper?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydraulic-Crimping-Tool-Kit-8-Ton-Electric-Wire-Crimper-/230762212794?pt=BI_Electrical_Equipment_Tools&hash=item35ba7fedba#ht_2578wt_947

 

I'm thinking about upgrading my Hydraulic crimper to something stronger

DC Audio - Singer Alternators - Knukonceptz - XS Power - Hybrid Audio - Rockford Fosgate - Second Skin Audio - SMD - Sundown Audio - Elemental Designs

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wonder if those cheap crimpers do their "rated power". The bigger brands like Greenlee, Burndy, Cabac, ilsco, Thomas&Betts, iWiss, all these brands cost WAYYYYY more for Hydraulic crimpers. Theres gotta be a reason besides the brand, for why theyre extremely different in price. Some of those big name crimpers are $3,000-$6,000. I plan on tryint to rent one of those crimpers for my install, we have a store/shop that rents all kinds of tools and equipment. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The biggest difference is quality of the unit itself and the dies. The big names use a color code depending on the lug and conductor.  The cheap ones are more generic in the die size. The cheap ones are fine for occasional use but I would not expect one to last with day to day use. The biggest problem with the expensive ones will be to figure out what dies you need unless you use lugs and conductors that they specify. The cheap ones have been proven to be able to apply the necessary pressure to cold weld which is all that it really needed.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

26 minutes ago, ShadeTreeMechanic said:

The biggest difference is quality of the unit itself and the dies. The big names use a color code depending on the lug and conductor.  The cheap ones are more generic in the die size. The cheap ones are fine for occasional use but I would not expect one to last with day to day use. The biggest problem with the expensive ones will be to figure out what dies you need unless you use lugs and conductors that they specify. The cheap ones have been proven to be able to apply the necessary pressure to cold weld which is all that it really needed.

Do u think the cheap 12ton crimpers are doing their 12tons of pressure when it crimps? Tho im not even sure thats what the 12ton is refering to, but i assume thats what its claiming, its compression strength. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The way to test for a proper cold weld is to cut a cross section of a crimped connection with a water jet. There was a you tube video somewhere about it. I'm not sure that it would take 12 tons to do a proper crimp with the soft lugs that we use. I would bet that only 2 or 3 tons would do it. The biggest thing is to make sure it has dies big enough to do the size lugs you have. Some how I remember that the 12 ton won't go big enough to do the 1/0 audio cable because it is really 2/0. The 18 ton crimper would be needed because it has bigger dies.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 175 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online



×
×
  • Create New...