sayhuh? Posted May 25, 2012 Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 Actually skittles, one is better. If you cannot solder, then crimping is better, especially with that hydraulic crimper! I cannot solder, so spending the what? $30 for the hydraulic crimper and these lugs http://www.amazon.com/Gauge-Inch-Copper-Cable-Lugs/dp/B00776MK1M you never have to worry if your connection is good enough. Oh and using those type of lugs fits in that crimper. Great write up! I always wondered how soldered looked. I just always though crimping would fuse the wire/ lug connection better. Thanks! Blown Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayhuh? Posted May 26, 2012 Report Share Posted May 26, 2012 got mine here, but I guess it was on sale. Still a good deal vs not have proper connections and fried shit. http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=hydraulic+crimper Blown Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graham0599 Posted May 26, 2012 Report Share Posted May 26, 2012 This is a great post. I love getting these good explanations. I typically solder large wire and crimp small wire. Like steve said, soldering allows them to be removed which has helped me a few times. My 350z build- http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174424-2008-350z-build/page-2?hl=%2B350z+%2Bbuild#entry2605678 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basshead7890 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 What are your thoughts on using this type of lug and using a hammer crimping tool. My Build Log 95 Honda Accord Nook HD+ tablet Team Ascendant Audio 18" 2 Skar Audio SK-2500.1D Crescendo Audio C1100.4 2006 Civic, Fi SP4 12", bc3500 Build log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 The hammer crimp tools suck and do a piss poor job. Those heavy duty lugs are made for a/c electrical, they will work ok in car audio (similar to how you put wire in an amp terminal), but they are very bulky in size, and the piece that you would bolt to the battery is very thick (so if your using a few of them, your going to run into a issue with the battery bolts being too short, and even be a challenge trying to get multiple terminals on 1 bolt due to their bulky size). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega5002 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 I use a hammer and cement, works great for large wires, sucks for small wires when adding ring terminals. 2003 Kia Sorento Team Subsonic LowsTeam Bassin' on a Budget2016 Rebuild Under Construction Best score: 150.2 at 40hz (3k, 2 Custom HDC3 15's) Usaci style(door open, in the kick) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 I use a hammer and cement, works great for large wires, sucks for small wires when adding ring terminals. Lolwut? Edit: Hurdurr, you mean the ground. I'm slow tonight.. Anyways: I would advise against doing that. Remember: It's about a good electrical connection, not just squishing it so the wire kind of stays in place if there isn't any significant pressure on it. I bet you can wiggle those for a few seconds and give it a firm tug and the wire would pop out. ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fmxperson Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 hmm.. ive always soldered small wires and crimped big wires, just becuase of not having a torch to solder with, and its good to know that ive been doing it right this whole time haha Team Audio Specialists 1998 GMC Sierra SLT Z71 ext. cab Headunit: Pioneer DEH-P7400HD Mids and Highs: One pair Boston SC65 6.5s One pair Boston SE75 4x6s Two pairs of Precision power T.2 tweeters Two pairs of ebay type tweeters (soon to be replaced) Boston GTA704 four channel amp RCAs: Stinger 4000 series 4 channel RCAs Lows: Two Sundown Audio SA-12s Sundown Audio Saz-2500d 3.9 cubic foot ported box (full 45 corners) fully braced and resined tuned at 33hz, all before displacement XS Power D3400 and Interstate starting battery, both under hood all KnuKonceptz Kolossus 1/0 wire (just 1 run for now) Big 3 done in 1/0 Audio Specialists <-----Best car audio shop in Western Kentucky/North Central Tennessee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrd6 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 ive always soldered large wire because i assumed it would be a better connection than a crimp but seeing how solid that crimp looks when cut in half I may just buy a crimper, it would save alot of time. Thanks Skittles! My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...-sundown-power/ Team NorthWestSPL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowpoke Posted December 20, 2015 Report Share Posted December 20, 2015 i set the lug into a vise. fill it with solder. biol the solder and keep it boiling while i slowly dip the cable into the lug. once the cable is entirely inserted with the solder still in a full liquid state i keep it like that for about 15 sec to allow the liquid solder to truly bond to all materials. then i remove the heat source and hold the cable in place until the solder has cooled enough to start turning solid. at first this method was a bit messy. i have now done it enough to perfect my skill that 99% of all connections come out perfect. once the lug and cable have cooled i place a small amount of dielectric grease between the lug and the wire insulation. then i apply heat shrink over the work area protecting everything for any elements. as for torch, iron so forth sizes, i have 3 sizes of iron and 4 torches. there really is no 1 size fits all. it really just depends on the amount of heat required for the material used. environmental conditions drastically effect the work outcome to. a 1/0 cable will not solder as fast or easy in 20f as it would in 95f temps. rain or clear doesnt really seem to be to much of a factor so long as the work being done stays dry. if done properly a standard crimp will never be as good as solder. the only way that a crimp will compare is if it is crimped so tightly that it actually begins to cold forge. some bigger hyd crimpers can supply enough pressure to do such. although for it to forge properly both the wire and the lug need to be like materials. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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