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I'm not trying to dash your ideas or stifle your creativity, but there is method called the "kiss" method. It means "Keep it Simple, Stupid" I'm not calling you stupid, it's just sometimes the simplest method is the best. If you have the cash to burn go ahead and have fun. Let us know how it turns out and post a video!

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I got ya! I'm down for an experiment now and then.

Yup, run an RCA from the line driver output and keep the level LOW at the start!

Be prepared to lose the line driver if the LED controller input shorts and burns out the line driver...

I'm guessing if you turn it up, it will blow the controllers input in a hurry.

What do you mean 'accurate lighting'?

I don't think you'll visually see a difference between the mic and hardwired but hey, try it out and let us know.

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Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
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LEGAL             - 147.3dB @ 41Hz
OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

OUTLAW         - 145.7dB @ 30Hz
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SOTM BUILD:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026

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When I say accurate lighting, I mean because I know the mic will pick up other sounds unless it's made to pick up only certain frequencies. So instead of using the mic I want the device to only hear whatever comes out of my amplifier, which will be bass (lower frequencies). So I have clean sound going to the controller therefore accurate lighting. Kind of like when you wire led strips directly to the amplifier, only I don't want to do that because I know the amp wouldn't be able to handle as many leds as I throw at it, with the controller the leds are powered by the battery, up to 6a worth, so the only thing it needs now is the amp/line driver to tell the controller to tell the lights when to light up. If I use only the controllers mic, I wouldnt want to have to turn the bass up like all the way with my mids/highs low just to get my lights to light up, I want the levels of the volume to be as I want it, but I only want the lights to light up to bass. That's the whole point of this project/experiment. I think I may buy both the amp and the line driver and maybe a couple of controllers to see what happens.

Edited by Eduardo Andrade

Clarion CZ401

Power Acoustik LT-980/2

dbLink 8 gauge kit

DXi 104 4 ohm DVC x2

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Gotcha.

If the experiment works, a simple low pass capacitor between the line driver and controller should be able to filter out the higher frequencies.

An easy 6dB slope should be fine to give you your breakpoint in frequencies.

If your ambitious, through an active crossover in between the line driver and controller for adjustable control on the fly.

Or buy a line driver with a built in crossover.

An LED controller with a mic should also have a sensitivity adjustment that you can fine tune, in case you want to ease into the project?

This post sent with 100% recycled electrons.
2004 BMW M3
Mechman 280A
2 - XS Power XP3000

1 - XS Power D375

500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F)
iPadMini2

Dash mounted O-scope
Audison bitOne (Remote DRC MP)
Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
DC Audio DC9.0K
2- DC Audio XL12m2

LEGAL             - 147.3dB @ 41Hz
OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

OUTLAW         - 145.7dB @ 30Hz
JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER

2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER

SOTM BUILD:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026

sig-sized6_zps0265e669.png

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if you were really wanting to do this you could go out and find a old blown sub any kind. take out just the vc and wire it with the led lights to the cheapo. just throwing out ideas

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Gotcha.

If the experiment works, a simple low pass capacitor between the line driver and controller should be able to filter out the higher frequencies.

An easy 6dB slope should be fine to give you your breakpoint in frequencies.

If your ambitious, through an active crossover in between the line driver and controller for adjustable control on the fly.

Or buy a line driver with a built in crossover.

An LED controller with a mic should also have a sensitivity adjustment that you can fine tune, in case you want to ease into the project?

Thanks many for the idea, and yeah, the controller does have a sensitivity adjustment knob, so setting gains and going too high shouldn't be a problem because it doesn't seem easy to do. Just turn the sensitivity up a small notch, and start the gain at the lowest point, if it still doesn't light how I want it I can turn the sensitivity up some more. Still not lighting properly? Turn the sensitivity down again, and turn the gain a small notch up. Turn sensitivity up. Repeat the process until you can achieve desirable results by only having to use the sensitivity knob. By the way, does the sub out on HU's only put out low frequency? Or is it the same as every other rca? I may be mistaken but I thought that was the way it works, maybe it's only labeled sub because it's selectable (so you can turn the vol up and down separate from the main volume on the HU) Edited by Eduardo Andrade

Clarion CZ401

Power Acoustik LT-980/2

dbLink 8 gauge kit

DXi 104 4 ohm DVC x2

Sealed Enclosure

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