Kyblack76 Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 It's a older double slug SSD 12 wired to 1 ohm Ill put my meter on it and see what the voltage is at the amp when I get home, I'll also test the load on the sub just to eliminate it. Thats the place to begin,... post up your findings.... also, if youve been jamin for a awhile, all was hunky and dory, and bam, this "just started" or happend?, then start looking at your electrical/ battery/alty. Have you noticed any weirdness with anything else electrical on your ride? maybe giving you a clue up to this point? kyle Quote SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebuck1919 Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 just my .02 since its happened to me...but maybe its ur RCA's? i have a DC 2k...right when i got it, it was always in protect...swapped out the RCA's and it works...just a thought...can happen to anybody at any time... Quote Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/152368-littlebuck1919s-feedback/#entry2177586 i think you'd stick your dick in a blender if it told you it was 40 wtih two kids your age. lol 6/18/82 - 4/17/12 R.I.P. to my sister Shana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeyrapboy Posted April 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 Just got home from work, Pulled out the DMM and Started getting some readings, I got 12.7 at the batt and 12.5 at the amp Unhooked the sub and it still goes into protect as soon as the key turns over Going to try the RCA suggestion because now that i think about it someone that i know had the same issue, Thanks for bringing that up man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cloud77 Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 I would wire the sub to 4 ohm, and see if you were just having problem keeping it powered. what are the specs on the amp @ 1 ohm? I would recommend getting a battery in the back to do your grounding there, not to the frame. There is an HC1400 on ebay right now for 150 free shipping and a bunch of hc600s. Where did you attain your RE amplifier? Quote 2004 Grand Prix GT (2) 12" RE XXXs (04/05 XBL^2) 5 cu. ft tuned @ 35 Hz MMATS HD4000.05 MMATS SQ4100 Infinity Kappa components Juice Box black cherry Duralast platinum group 34 1/0 KNU OFC, 2/0 welding Singer 250A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeyrapboy Posted April 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 Dont ground to the frame? Your aware that the battery i would be buying to stick in the back has to be grounded to the frame at some point correct? Be it grounded to the frame in the back, or grounded to the front battery which in turn is still grounded to the frame.... Not trying to sound like a dick buy just sayin... Also i got the amplifier from techforce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cloud77 Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 Heres the break down. Before I would even think about running 1 ohm for daily even if I was only doing 1000 Watts, I would have the big 3 done at least with 1/0 with a nice starting battery, grounded to the strut ground up front, and in turn grounded to your rear battery. Power to power, and make sure you have at least a 600V agm battery in rear and a meter to survey your voltage. I was trying to help, so stop thinking you know more and rephrase your post to a question. Answering the questions I asked in the last post would have helped you more. But since you want to be a know-it-all, have fun with your set-up. Quote 2004 Grand Prix GT (2) 12" RE XXXs (04/05 XBL^2) 5 cu. ft tuned @ 35 Hz MMATS HD4000.05 MMATS SQ4100 Infinity Kappa components Juice Box black cherry Duralast platinum group 34 1/0 KNU OFC, 2/0 welding Singer 250A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheena Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 (edited) pretty sure what cloud is trying to say is that grounding your amp to the negative on a battery post ELIMINATES any issues with the ground. because the ground is the first thing everyone is going to attack. after all this is an issue, so eliminating problems is the best way to troubleshoot. Edited April 19, 2012 by Sheena Quote 09 Civic EX KDC-X395 (2) SKAR Audio VVX-12 Skar Audio SK-1500.1 4 cu ft @32 (new box and more port soon) Firing Forward not sealed off Stock 80 Amp Alt Big 3 In 1/0 Knu 2 Runs To The Back 1 Pos 1 Neg In 1/0 Knu DD-1'd 13.8v drop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeyrapboy Posted April 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 (edited) Heres the break down. Before I would even think about running 1 ohm for daily even if I was only doing 1000 Watts, I would have the big 3 done at least with 1/0 with a nice starting battery, grounded to the strut ground up front, and in turn grounded to your rear battery. Power to power, and make sure you have at least a 600V agm battery in rear and a meter to survey your voltage. I was trying to help, so stop thinking you know more and rephrase your post to a question. Answering the questions I asked in the last post would have helped you more. But since you want to be a know-it-all, have fun with your set-up. Im not saying your wrong im going off what I have experienced first hand, You ask just about anyone with some common sense in the car audio field where to ground and 99% of the time the response will be "if possible straight to frame cleaned to bare metal" That my friend is how i have done it sense my jeep about burned to the ground from a bad ground, Big 3 is done, I had (up until about 1 hour ago) a voltage meter hooked up to my amp to measure the voltage. Its funny because even though you would have ALL that done i only had a stock alt, Group 34 batt and the big 3 done and really didn't have any voltage drop once i fixed my ground. No im not trying to be a know it all, Im sharing with YOU knowledge that i know, stuff that i have known sense i started putting systems in. Correct me if i am wrong, until then i will keep on keepin on. Also i did answer your questions minus one because i didnt see that one, the specs on the amp @1 ohm is 1500, Clamped it might do 1k Edited April 19, 2012 by jeyrapboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BFF Larry Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 Check if any wires are touching Quote Team Clearly Louder (MECA)Team DC Audio ++* SELLING the CACTUS SOUNDS K12 for $1550 shipped *++ HMU!!! 3 flips. nollie flips. big flips. hardflips. - steez Youtube Channel My Build Log 95 Bonneville SSE - WALLED/4th Order - ~30 cubes - *thanks LoganBerry, CortezDVT, Cj18, SuperCharged DC, Ryan-RAM Designs,LoudNLow931* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_racin4 Posted April 20, 2012 Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 Get a friend, Put multimeter on amp inputs See what voltage is with car off Have friend turn car on and see what voltage does Your inline fuse may look good but could be blown, and still letting a small amount of power threw, then when you power amp up voltage drops and protects amp Quote 1998 gmc extd cab 12 crossfire C710s 4 SAZ-4500s 3 Singer 400A altsbuncha mids/highs Team Asshole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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