Crandis16 Posted May 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 Just for a little info man, I owned a 99 zx2 an I had 2200 watts total rms off of the stock alt, an extra hc800 batt, and the big three and the lowest I dropped to was 12.3 full tilt. You shouldn't have any voltage drop off of 500 watts. Looking good so far. Thanks for the input. I hope to build on it more and more, I really just need a place to start for now so I'm just going for something simple. I plan on getting an amp for the mids/highs when the bass overpowers them lol. I hear a lot about the big 3 but I'm not 100% sure what it is. From what it sounds like to me is alternator, ground, and I don't know what haha. Are there any threads on here about the big 3?Also, how would I go about getting a perfect 90 degree angle when gluing/screwing the box together. I thought about getting some steel L-brackets and reinforcing from the inside to get good corners. My Red zx2 Build Log My Black zx2 Build Log My Red zx2 UBL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebel4055 Posted May 9, 2012 Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 Alt casing to negative post on battery, alt positive to battery positive, strut tower to battery negative. Rest In Peace mother. January 22, 1955 - February 14, 2013 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/35351-megrch/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falcons03079313 Posted May 9, 2012 Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 Just for a little info man, I owned a 99 zx2 an I had 2200 watts total rms off of the stock alt, an extra hc800 batt, and the big three and the lowest I dropped to was 12.3 full tilt. You shouldn't have any voltage drop off of 500 watts. Looking good so far. Thanks for the input. I hope to build on it more and more, I really just need a place to start for now so I'm just going for something simple. I plan on getting an amp for the mids/highs when the bass overpowers them lol. I hear a lot about the big 3 but I'm not 100% sure what it is. From what it sounds like to me is alternator, ground, and I don't know what haha. Are there any threads on here about the big 3?Also, how would I go about getting a perfect 90 degree angle when gluing/screwing the box together. I thought about getting some steel L-brackets and reinforcing from the inside to get good corners. What I usually do is have someone help hold the two peices of wood your gluing and screwing together and that usually makes the box pretty square Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crandis16 Posted May 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 $900 this past March to pass inspection... new exhaust, new tie rods, new brakes, and some other junk. Recently I hear a high pitch whistle when I get into the high RPMs (4000) when accelerating quickly I should have the car inspected soon for any problems because this one scares me. Looks like you're keeping everything nice and clean so far. I like the bass knob placement and the switch you have. Thanks for de-ricing it lol. Thanks a lot, I have seen builds where people have done that, plus I don't have a lot of room in the car to hold stuff now that I have my special input bracket that I made and screwed into the front compartment.I'm still waiting on that damn power wire to get here along with the RCAs. I called USPS but they said they don't know where it is so it looks like that's $30 down the drain. After I get the box built I'm going to order some speaker terminals to mount on the box and I'll just buy power wire by the foot from the local car audio store. A high pitched whistle could be anything. A vaccum leak or just something weird. The valve seat issue has a distinct sound. Mine ticked for MONTHS and I thought it was the lower end. Then I sat too long with the car running and it started stumbling and so I drove it. Had a bit of power sometimes. Then my step dad came home from work and said the car is making a hell of a noise. Sure enough the sound was like the engine was about to blow up. Also encountered resistance when turning the motor over by hand. Leave the issue alone. If it's running the way it's supposed to don't worry about it. Keep the maintence up on it. If you see odd temps take a peak at it. Valve seat missing, intake side. I actually tore apart the block and found the rest of the seat at the bottom. Piston, I had cleaned them up. Thanks, if that's the case then I'm not going to worry about it. The most I'll do is probably give my mechanic a ride in my car and see if he can guess what it is and see if it needs to be fixed, otherwise I won't do anything about it. I'm not too engine-savy but I should really learn more about engines so I can do this stuff on my own and not pay rediculous prices to the mechanics. My Red zx2 Build Log My Black zx2 Build Log My Red zx2 UBL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crandis16 Posted May 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 Alt casing to negative post on battery, alt positive to battery positive, strut tower to battery negative. Would my car already be wired like that you think? or is that something that I need to do by myself. And what is the strut tower?I'm learning so much by posting this build log My Red zx2 Build Log My Black zx2 Build Log My Red zx2 UBL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crandis16 Posted May 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 Thanks Falcons, I thought about putting 2 box walls up against the corner of my room, then putting the top or bottom of the box on that and drill after I know the box is square with the corner of my wall, all this input is good. I pretty independant and like to do these projects by myself but I'll see if anyone can hold the wood for me haha My Red zx2 Build Log My Black zx2 Build Log My Red zx2 UBL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebel4055 Posted May 9, 2012 Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 It's not wired like that. It probably has a ground on the block somewhere to the battery. The alternator postive to battery is factory, you need to upgrade that wire. The strut tower is the strut tower for the suspension lol. Rest In Peace mother. January 22, 1955 - February 14, 2013 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/35351-megrch/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crandis16 Posted May 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 Thanks, I'll definitely look into that when I go for bigger and better things after this box lol. I thought strut tower was different than the strut bar lol, I need to be more car-savy haha. And you would run 1/0 gauge to and from the alternator and battery? and 1/0 gauge from negative to strut tower? My Red zx2 Build Log My Black zx2 Build Log My Red zx2 UBL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falcons03079313 Posted May 9, 2012 Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 It is a lot easier than it sounds. You literally just add extra wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve volz Posted May 9, 2012 Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 when i did the big 3 on my cavalier I ground to the battery tray and the block wear the stock wire was and just added the 0awg and kept the stock positive http://www.stevemead...new-xfl-pg6-57/americanbass hd 12d22 audiopipe 1800.1ppi s580.4rockford p1653 frontpolk audio 6x9 rearbig 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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