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Well you pinned down the faulty wire so you just have to keep following it back to where it originates and look for the issue.

If you have access to the fuse panel, you could always find an empty slot that has constant battery voltage and run a new (fused) wire to the HU.

I would want to track down the faulty issue though. Wires in your dash with faulty voltage readings is not a good thing...

If there's a short, or corrosion or something, you'll want to fix it now before it degrades into a real problem.

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if you wanted to avoid having the light work at all you can simply split the remote wire and connect one side to the center pin and one side to the B+ pin.

Id do it the other way but this will work too.

dafuq? to avoid the switch lighting just don't connect the ground. switches with lights need a ground to power it when on, switches without lights have no ground.

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if you wanted to avoid having the light work at all you can simply split the remote wire and connect one side to the center pin and one side to the B+ pin.

Id do it the other way but this will work too.

dafuq? to avoid the switch lighting just don't connect the ground. switches with lights need a ground to power it when on, switches without lights have no ground.

Um thats just another way to say what I've already said genius.

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led_rocker_switch_diagram.jpg

I did the same wiring for the sub in my car, but I didn't like how the light stayed on, even when the LEDs were off. Is there a way to wire the switch to have the LED turn on when the switch is on?
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D make a new thread sir prob be better but if you hook it up with your ignition wire I'd assume that could work and would turn off when the car turns off.. Could also be very wrong just a suggestion

Check out my build log:

http://www.stevemead...60#entry1958353

Different folks have different strokes.

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