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Brofist! LMAO!! Nice!

I have a thought on it that I was looking for, and I think we even talked about it, but I don't know that you're going that direction.

The other thing I was thinking of was an arm on the seat that slides, the actuator standing up and down (probably a much shorter one because I don't think it would need to be very long) and it moves the arm which slides along a track and moves the seat out. I'm sure this doesn't make sense in words, it does in my head though.

I'll just wait and see what you have in store and see how close my ideas are to yours!

So hurry up!! :drink40:

;) I saw the Brofist on somebodies thread and I had to scoop that shit up for myself. LOL

Dude you're thinking WAY too hard about the "solution". You'll see when I post it. I guess, if it actually works out like I think it should, but we'll see.

:drinks:

Nice.

Man what a ton of work.

And.. What does "never back to stock" mean. ;)

I commend you, and the choice. Go get it.

;) Whew...you ain't kidding about a ton of work...It's tough being overly critical of my work since I see the slightest flaw and have to do it all over again.... :aggressive:

:drinks:

Now just get the port sealed off from the trunk and you will see a HUGEEEEEEEEEEEEEE difference!

Hell yeah Dude!!! I'm on it. :detail:

If I ever get my damn fiberglass trim panel the way I want it then its full bore on that rear deck.

:good:

Holy crap...I need to get one of those mini oscopes. That is amazing. This whole build is amazing. Good god man.

Thanks Man! Yep the O-scope should come in handy, once I get it tuned in.

Dang lookin good man.

Thanks, Sir :good:

I was looking closer at that oscope, it says it has a -14 to +20 volt range which is great for the head unit, if I wanted to hook it up to the amp output could I just put a resistor on it or would that screw everything up?

Good eye Monolith! You do have to do some level matching since most amps can easily output more than 20V(peak) which would only be ~14Vrms.

If you check back in my build, I discuss what I did to handle it, here's a copy:

A couple of hurdles to overcome:

1.) Runs on 5VDC

2.) Input voltage limit of 20VDC

So I had to use a 12VDC to 5VDC converter to power it which I had leftover from a prior voltmeter that I replaced.

The voltage from the 5K had to be reduced so that the o-scope wouldn't be over-driven. The most simple method is a resistor divider.

I started off with 1MOhm and a 200kOhm resistors to give me a voltage that is 16% of the original.

418resdivider_zpsaabcbb0d.jpg

418resdivider2_zps071707b0.jpg

Here's an initial test with my bench power supply at the top of the resistor divider:

420resdividerinput_zps07395c8b.jpg

Here's the output of the resistor divider:

420resdivideroutput_zpsced04857.jpg

Now after a bit of use, I do need to replace my 200kOhm resistor since my levels are quite right.

You may have to tweak the resistor divider to work with your amp's output.

Another VERY important factor is that the negative channel inputs on the o-scope are directly tied to the o-scopes ground.

Therefore you need a voltage divider on both terminals of the amp's output terminals.

In addition, you need a ground lead from the tail-end of the voltage dividers which you MUST make sure you connect correctly since, depending on the amp, you may not want to ground any terminal from the amps outputs.

Good luck if you try it out, I wanna see some pics!!! ;)

This post sent with 100% recycled electrons.
2004 BMW M3
Mechman 280A
2 - XS Power XP3000

1 - XS Power D375

500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F)
iPadMini2

Dash mounted O-scope
Audison bitOne (Remote DRC MP)
Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
DC Audio DC9.0K
2- DC Audio XL12m2

LEGAL             - 147.3dB @ 41Hz
OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

OUTLAW         - 145.7dB @ 30Hz
JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER

2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER

SOTM BUILD:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026

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I'm pretty broke right now, but thanks for the info, I will definitely be messing around with one of these sooner or later! I wonder if I could get it to flash an LED or something when it is clipping. It seems to have the necessary outputs to make it work with a few extra parts. Imagine a universal clipping indicator + the cool readout. When you are listening at low volumes this could make a bass boost knob usable because you would know exactly how much you could get away with.

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I'm pretty broke right now, but thanks for the info, I will definitely be messing around with one of these sooner or later! I wonder if I could get it to flash an LED or something when it is clipping. It seems to have the necessary outputs to make it work with a few extra parts. Imagine a universal clipping indicator + the cool readout. When you are listening at low volumes this could make a bass boost knob usable because you would know exactly how much you could get away with.

Cool! Glad I could provide some ideas.

The reason I researched for a small convenient o-scope was just that, so I could "see" the clipping, given with the small screen and limited resolution, it'd be blatant clipping but that's fine. That's the clipping I'd be most worried about.

To truly calculate 1% clipping/distortion would require some complicated/$$$ equipment, especially a transient signal like live music, if even possible.

If that functionality was fairly cheap to implement, I'm sure Tony D would have included it in the DD-1 rather then just using a test tone which is the only way I know of.

You nailed it on the bass boost though. The o-scope would be handy to adjust your signal at lower levels and know what your signal looks like live.

This post sent with 100% recycled electrons.
2004 BMW M3
Mechman 280A
2 - XS Power XP3000

1 - XS Power D375

500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F)
iPadMini2

Dash mounted O-scope
Audison bitOne (Remote DRC MP)
Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
DC Audio DC9.0K
2- DC Audio XL12m2

LEGAL             - 147.3dB @ 41Hz
OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

OUTLAW         - 145.7dB @ 30Hz
JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER

2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER

SOTM BUILD:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026

sig-sized6_zps0265e669.png

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Ok hurry up and get to the seat project so i can buy what I need to buy!! WAITING OVER HERE!!!!! :drink40:

IMG_1389_zpsed441ccf.jpg

;)

S'posed to get delivered today. :woot:

I will have updates for you soon, Sir!

This post sent with 100% recycled electrons.
2004 BMW M3
Mechman 280A
2 - XS Power XP3000

1 - XS Power D375

500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F)
iPadMini2

Dash mounted O-scope
Audison bitOne (Remote DRC MP)
Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
DC Audio DC9.0K
2- DC Audio XL12m2

LEGAL             - 147.3dB @ 41Hz
OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

OUTLAW         - 145.7dB @ 30Hz
JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER

2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER

SOTM BUILD:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026

sig-sized6_zps0265e669.png

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This is a QUALITY build.. Beautiful car..

Thanks! :good:

I spy a Bimmer in your avatar. Details?

Always nice having other BMW's around.

This post sent with 100% recycled electrons.
2004 BMW M3
Mechman 280A
2 - XS Power XP3000

1 - XS Power D375

500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F)
iPadMini2

Dash mounted O-scope
Audison bitOne (Remote DRC MP)
Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
DC Audio DC9.0K
2- DC Audio XL12m2

LEGAL             - 147.3dB @ 41Hz
OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

OUTLAW         - 145.7dB @ 30Hz
JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER

2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER

SOTM BUILD:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026

sig-sized6_zps0265e669.png

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