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Here's what the whole thing looks like.

326VM-1andprotoboardwired_zpsd8cf466c.jp

Works pretty slick although its a bummer I couldn't find any multicolor bar-graph LEDs that include blue.....so I'm stuck with green and red, possibly orange if I light up both LEDs in each segment.

Since the bar-graph LEDs are fairly small, I most likely won't be able to have the voltage printed out next to each LED (maybe every other one) so that is where the VM-1 is nice.

I'm brainstorming a few other ideas for this location in my dash so we'll see how this plays out.

:good:

Do you have a ny vids of it working or what the bar graph looks like lit up?

MY BUILD *****http://tinyurl.com/gmcbuild*****

Vehicles

2005 GMC Canyon

CB1000r - Currently where any future funds are going. (exhasut,bazzaz, ohlins shock, screen, etc.)

crf250r - Used to be race bike..now I just trail ride..practice at the track on it.

CH80 - Daily beater (when nice weather)best 150$ ever spent. 100+mpg

Sold to:

Skullz - pstone11 - Leo1103 - Volvo 63' - pavelpardo - imnew59585

Shower farts still piss me off.

I think theyre pretty neat. When the water runs down your crack as you let one out... its like shitting in a crockpot.
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Here's what the whole thing looks like.

Works pretty slick although its a bummer I couldn't find any multicolor bar-graph LEDs that include blue.....so I'm stuck with green and red, possibly orange if I light up both LEDs in each segment.

Since the bar-graph LEDs are fairly small, I most likely won't be able to have the voltage printed out next to each LED (maybe every other one) so that is where the VM-1 is nice.

I'm brainstorming a few other ideas for this location in my dash so we'll see how this plays out.

:good:

Do you have a ny vids of it working or what the bar graph looks like lit up?

I do. Its right in the middle of my last update. Right when I start talking about the modifications.

Got me thinking though, there isn't much detail to that video as I made it rather quickly.

Here's a better one! :drinks:

This post sent with 100% recycled electrons.
2004 BMW M3
Mechman 280A
2 - XS Power XP3000

1 - XS Power D375

500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F)
iPadMini2

Dash mounted O-scope
Audison bitOne (Remote DRC MP)
Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
DC Audio DC9.0K
2- DC Audio XL12m2

LEGAL             - 147.3dB @ 41Hz
OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

OUTLAW         - 145.7dB @ 30Hz
JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER

2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER

SOTM BUILD:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026

sig-sized6_zps0265e669.png

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True. I think you're on the right track. If the velcro at work is too strong, I'd say just go with the magnets. Do a test to see if they'll hold before you do anything permanent. If they hold great! if not then option b (whatever that is).

What about an allen head screw to hold the panel in place, or see if you can find one that has the grooves in it that you can turn by finger. Something nice so it doesn't just look like a screw in a panel. An allen head screw would give a nice look and serve a good purpose. After all, like you said, how often are you going to actually be in there?

Keep it up man! I like where you're going! :popcorn:

Thanks Sir!

I thought about a clean Allen head bolt. That'd be simple and secure but then I'd need another hex wrench handy to tilt the amp.

I have about a dozen of those damn wrenches floating around. To truly be finger accessible I'd probably have to resort to a wing-nut or something.

Hmmm "option b" huh..? Now ya got me thinking...

I do happen to have an idea floating in back of my head.

:ninja:

Remember this?

Option B for my amp rack is ready to be unveiled... :ninja:

This post sent with 100% recycled electrons.
2004 BMW M3
Mechman 280A
2 - XS Power XP3000

1 - XS Power D375

500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F)
iPadMini2

Dash mounted O-scope
Audison bitOne (Remote DRC MP)
Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
DC Audio DC9.0K
2- DC Audio XL12m2

LEGAL             - 147.3dB @ 41Hz
OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

OUTLAW         - 145.7dB @ 30Hz
JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER

2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER

SOTM BUILD:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026

sig-sized6_zps0265e669.png

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Upon further work on the wooden framework that surrounds my highs amp, I realized that it wasn't fitting correctly and I didn't like the overall look of it either.

Here's how it was:

283ampplate-fix_zpsd6c21470.jpg

I wasn't ending up with enough height for the amp and other things so I needed to lower the base of the framework.

So I tore it out and realized that I could gain 3/4" by removing my battery tray that I built a while ago and retooling the setup.

Here's the old battery tray (HA, I just realized that I accidentally gave a hint of the actuator in this pic from last year... :ninja:)

158-matinstalled.jpg

159-batterytraytestfit.jpg

I liked how it turned out but technically it wasn't holding the battery down to the car as much as I'd like.

It was strapped down at one location but that wouldn't necessarily keep the battery secure in a rollover.

After removing it, I found that I could utilize the stock hold-down bolt in the battery well.

Therefore I now have the battery held down in two locations so it aint goin' nowhere now.

That meant I could cut down my top battery strap and make some sparks.

328batterystrapcut_zps3164f1db.jpg

Now the battery is positioned a little further forward and is more secure then it was.

327batteryre-fit_zps5f6fcea8.jpg

I gained a good 3/4" to 1" of available height which doesn't sound like much but in this trunk its HUGE.

SIDENOTE

This weekend the girlfriend grabbed my old college mini-fridge out of our storage unit.

I plugged it in and sure enough....it still works. :woot:

For reference, I bought the fridge in the fall of 1992, in case you were wondering why I was getting excited about a fridge working.

Works too good actually. Yesterday I had some frozen water bottles in there. :o

Anyway, now I have a mini-fridge in my garage which is SWEET! (I have a de-tached condo garage so getting stuff from home involves running around the corner and climbing 3 flights of stairs which gets old after a while........

So now I have quick access to some frosty beverages which should help speed this build right along.... :drinks:

329fridge-beer_zpsfd373ec5.jpg

Back to the topic

So after the battery situation was handled, I tackled ripping apart the old amp framework and rebuilding it.

330newampframework1_zps6871144e.jpg

Here's the new (and lower and better) base with a cardboard template for the back-plate.

330newampframework2_zps0e5286e9.jpg

Back-plate added

331newframeworkfit1_zpsf5cf8828.jpg

Close-up

332newframeworkfit2_zps27d022cf.jpg

Trunk view

332newframeworkfit3_zps3856e37b.jpg

NOW to the fun part of the update.

I asked around for comments on how to secure the tiling amp rack so that I could easily access my fuse panel without dealing with bolts, screws or anything.

Here's what I came up with:

333ampracktestfit_zps3f927527.jpg

I showed the gate latch at the top of the amp rack before.

323ampracktilt_zps39617227.jpg

How about a matching door solenoid to catch that latch ;)

334ampracklock_zps7d59b0a5.jpg

Here's a vid of the working mechanism.

In the vid I'm just touching the positive wire of the solenoid to a 12VDC power supply.

Works more slick then I was expecting :good:

In the car I'll wire it to a switch to activate it.

;)

This post sent with 100% recycled electrons.
2004 BMW M3
Mechman 280A
2 - XS Power XP3000

1 - XS Power D375

500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F)
iPadMini2

Dash mounted O-scope
Audison bitOne (Remote DRC MP)
Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
DC Audio DC9.0K
2- DC Audio XL12m2

LEGAL             - 147.3dB @ 41Hz
OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

OUTLAW         - 145.7dB @ 30Hz
JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER

2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER

SOTM BUILD:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026

sig-sized6_zps0265e669.png

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:wacky: Every time I see your build it gives me new ideas! To that I say: :jon: but on the other hand I love new ideas, and it's helping my build evolve before I even build it. So to that I say: :drink40:

You my friend are a genius! Love it and love the work! Amazing!!!

The only thing that would make that even better, would be some kind of actuator, or something that would make it go down automatically. Do the pop, then the roll down. I'm thinking something along the lines of how a tape deck comes down. Slow and steady. Ponder that, and you're welcome!

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:wacky: Every time I see your build it gives me new ideas! To that I say: :jon: but on the other hand I love new ideas, and it's helping my build evolve before I even build it. So to that I say: :drink40:

You my friend are a genius! Love it and love the work! Amazing!!!

The only thing that would make that even better, would be some kind of actuator, or something that would make it go down automatically. Do the pop, then the roll down. I'm thinking something along the lines of how a tape deck comes down. Slow and steady. Ponder that, and you're welcome!

Back at ya Man :drink40:

No genius, not at all. Just have a few ideas to make my install unique...

See, now I got you all actuator happy! ;)

An actuator on the amp rack would be sweet, but if you saw how tight this corner of my trunk is already then you'd see that it would be a little difficult to pull off.

I'll definitely keep that in mind though, maybe for a future upgrade.

I have looked at those cupboard door buffers while running through Lowes and have tried to come up with a way to incorporate those.

You know the little spring loaded accessories that slowly closes a cupboard door so it doesn't slam.

I've spent way too much time in this corner of the trunk already so I'm shutting down any further ideas and just finishing it as-is.

I've got many other areas to finish up so that I can get this thing functional, playing and in one piece finally.

I already have a "Stage 2" list of ideas brewing to further enhance the build.

:ninja:

This post sent with 100% recycled electrons.
2004 BMW M3
Mechman 280A
2 - XS Power XP3000

1 - XS Power D375

500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F)
iPadMini2

Dash mounted O-scope
Audison bitOne (Remote DRC MP)
Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
DC Audio DC9.0K
2- DC Audio XL12m2

LEGAL             - 147.3dB @ 41Hz
OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

OUTLAW         - 145.7dB @ 30Hz
JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER

2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER

SOTM BUILD:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026

sig-sized6_zps0265e669.png

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I was thinking of some kind of rotating actuator or motor, that maybe goes on an arm, that will spin and push the arm out, and then spin opposite and pull the arm in. Something compact and simple. Yes I figured you were out of room in there!

We'll work on it.

Ok back to work. Finish the corner up and let's see some more of the rest of it.

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Happy Friday Biches!

Just hit four digits deep (1000 posts) :woot:

giz_zps5e94c235.gif

This post sent with 100% recycled electrons.
2004 BMW M3
Mechman 280A
2 - XS Power XP3000

1 - XS Power D375

500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F)
iPadMini2

Dash mounted O-scope
Audison bitOne (Remote DRC MP)
Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
DC Audio DC9.0K
2- DC Audio XL12m2

LEGAL             - 147.3dB @ 41Hz
OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

OUTLAW         - 145.7dB @ 30Hz
JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER

2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER

SOTM BUILD:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026

sig-sized6_zps0265e669.png

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