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Hey whats up everyone? I am looking to have everything for my big 3 ordered by this coming Wednesday and I was wondering if someone might be able to help me out with about the amount I need to order, what kind of ring terminals, help between 3 diff brands, and whether or not I should replace the stock wires or just add on to the stock wiring. I have read the "Big 3 Tutorial" over and over to make sure I am familiar with the process. Any help is really appreciated on this one.

I am stuck deciding between Rockford 1/0, Tsunami 1/0, and Knukonceptz 1/0. Anyone have any preferences on these? I am going ot have to order my wire because the shops here in Rocky Mount just carry Q Power CCA 1/0. I am not a big fan of CCA or the performance of Q Power wire. Do you think I should go with one solid color under the hood or go "red for +" and "blk for -"? Maybe just blue Knu wire on the whole Big 3?

I am guessing around 7ft for my batt-engine ground, 5ft for alt-batt +, and 6ft to run from batt-starter. I will post some pics below. The way the wiring came from the factory the positive from the Alt to the batt is in the same terminal (connector) as my positive wire running to my starter so would I have to replace both of these? How many feet would ya'll suggest I order and would 6 ring terminals be enough? I am planning on soldering the connections and not crimping them. Would ya'll suggest pure copper ring terminals? Also would yall suggest replacing the wire that stretches from the battery to my fuse block under the hood?

Sorry for the nooby questions but money is kinda tight and I just want to make sure I order the right stuff and not waste any money. Thanks for any help also ya'll

Best Regards,

-James

Alt to batt + lead:

IMG_20120513_144720.jpg

Back of Batt:

IMG_20120513_144753.jpg

Going to my engine block ground:

IMG_20120513_144820.jpg

The positive wire from the Alt and the Positive wire going to the starter are connected in one terminal:

IMG_20120513_160241.jpg

Overview:

IMG_20120513_144849.jpg

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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Stinger Pro Series 0 gauge, Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0, Absolute 1/0 P0-20, or can anyone suggest where I can buy Tsunami wire by the foot? What wire is suggested?

Thanks,

-James

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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well, i honestly would recommend copper lugs and im using kicker 1/0 but i dnt see it mattering if its true to gauge, which is why im using welding cable to go back to my amp lol but add to ur stock wires and make sure all the connections are solid :)

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i think you'd stick your dick in a blender if it told you it was 40 wtih two kids your age. lol

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for a stock alt you dont HAVE to use 0 gauge. your tahoe probably has like a 100a alt or something like that. as long as the alt is under ~150 amps, then you can get away with 4 gauge.

edit: just to save you a little money. i doubt you'll see any gains from 4 to 0 gauge

Edited by Kranny
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@littlebuck: I like the copper lug ring terminals and how is that Kicker wire holding up? I was going to replace all the wires but I'm glad I got a second opinion on just adding onto the stock wiring. I will be soldering all my connections so they will be solid. Thanks for the advice and the tip on the copper lug ring terminals.

@Kranny: The alt was either 120A or a 124A I cant remember. It was a little over a 100A but bigger than the stock 105A Alt. If I am planning on running a SAZ-2500D on 2 SA Z v.3 12" subs or either a SAZ-3500D on 4 12" Ascendant Audio Havocs would you recommend going ahead with 1/0 so I can upgrade my Alt to a 250A or higher? I am trying to plan for my future build while trying to save money at the same time.

I really appreciate the help ya'll,

-James

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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Does anyone happen to know if I would be ok with 10ft for the Big 3? I know this isn't the want to buy section but If someone has some 10-15ft of 1/0 OFC wire I would be interested in that also.

Thanks,

James

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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I was thinking about that I have been dealing with a Brown Recluse bite on my leg for about 8 days now. Once it stops raining here and the meds finish up this bite I will get up under the hood and measure the wires. I was just seeing if maybe someone might have known from experience so I could get an idea of it. Thanks though Kranny always a fast responder

-James

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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Or you can buy the Big 3 kit from CE auto electric from Tony as his product is awesome and he has outstanding customer service and has everything you need

13 Kia Forte Build!

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And then he gets to say ok all you guys were right. im sorry for being a dummy poo poo head.

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@trey: I just emailed CE for a price. I am kinda budgeted so I can either keep saving up and buy a kit or just buy pieces along the way. Thanks tho man

-James

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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