Low voltage problem... with pics

[CW06Silvy]

There should be one hidden on the Positive side of the wiring to the battery. It usually is connected close to the positive on the battery or from the alternator. Idk why it would be around a ground wire because unless that is the only wire going to the battery there is no way for the PCM to accurately calculate system draw. Was your battery in the back from the factory? They probably hid this pretty well in that tiny engine bay. The 2006 impala LTZ that I saw done would only boost voltage when a heavy load was applied to the batteries. So basically he would bass really hard and then the voltage would boost back to 14.4 but fall again once the current had stayed down for a while. The only real way to fix this so it dosen't ruin your equipment is a MLA. The fan stuff will be costly, but if you cannot afford it now I would make sure that is among my top priorities to fix in the near future.

[Amart88]

There should be one hidden on the Positive side of the wiring to the battery. It usually is connected close to the positive on the battery or from the alternator. Idk why it would be around a ground wire because unless that is the only wire going to the battery there is no way for the PCM to accurately calculate system draw. Was your battery in the back from the factory? They probably hid this pretty well in that tiny engine bay. The 2006 impala LTZ that I saw done would only boost voltage when a heavy load was applied to the batteries. So basically he would bass really hard and then the voltage would boost back to 14.4 but fall again once the current had stayed down for a while. The only real way to fix this so it dosen't ruin your equipment is a MLA. The fan stuff will be costly, but if you cannot afford it now I would make sure that is among my top priorities to fix in the near future.

Yeah I have an MLA coming soon. But it does not override the PCM controlling the voltage, it just makes make the voltage higher when the PCM decides to charge. Also, even if I do find this ring, is there any way to trick it so it thinks theirs a draw? As of now I can maintain 13.5- 13.9 volts with the auto light trick. I don;t think it will ruin my equipment unless the voltage was dropping in the low 12's. i keep a close eye on my volt meter when i'm bumping, I turn it down whn it gets into the low 13's or high 12's. I try to charge my batts when I have a chance also. Hopefully witht he auto lights and the MLA it wil resolve this or make it tollerable. I'm starting to question GM's stupid reasoning for this shit.

[CW06Silvy]

There should be one hidden on the Positive side of the wiring to the battery. It usually is connected close to the positive on the battery or from the alternator. Idk why it would be around a ground wire because unless that is the only wire going to the battery there is no way for the PCM to accurately calculate system draw. Was your battery in the back from the factory? They probably hid this pretty well in that tiny engine bay. The 2006 impala LTZ that I saw done would only boost voltage when a heavy load was applied to the batteries. So basically he would bass really hard and then the voltage would boost back to 14.4 but fall again once the current had stayed down for a while. The only real way to fix this so it dosen't ruin your equipment is a MLA. The fan stuff will be costly, but if you cannot afford it now I would make sure that is among my top priorities to fix in the near future.

Yeah I have an MLA coming soon. But it does not override the PCM controlling the voltage, it just makes make the voltage higher when the PCM decides to charge. Also, even if I do find this ring, is there any way to trick it so it thinks theirs a draw? As of now I can maintain 13.5- 13.9 volts with the auto light trick. I don;t think it will ruin my equipment unless the voltage was dropping in the low 12's. i keep a close eye on my volt meter when i'm bumping, I turn it down whn it gets into the low 13's or high 12's. I try to charge my batts when I have a chance also. Hopefully witht he auto lights and the MLA it wil resolve this or make it tollerable. I'm starting to question GM's stupid reasoning for this shit.

It is designed to preserve the battery for a longer period of time. And the alternator is not going all-out all the time either. Honestly if I were you, I would forget that MLA module, it is going to be more of a pain in the long run. That will not totally fix the problem. I hate to say it but I think you should sell your Ohio Gen Alternator and talk to Mike Singer @ singer alternators. You should be able to find them easliy. Tell mike that you need a new alt for your car but have him make it set to 14.8 internally. This way the alternator controls its voltage not the PCM. You should get a good chunk of $ back from selling the ohio. This is what I did and this way I know I am going to have 14.8v all the time. I said this last because its usually not what people want to hear, especially with a lot of $$ invested. This way you have to modify none of the car and you get what you want, and a stupid battery light anyways.

[Amart88]

Ugggh man... Too much to think about right now... How would the internal work? what do you do with your factory harness and shit?. I like my alt but hate this PCM. I can't ditch the MLA as I already payed for it... I was told if the alt charges 24/7 that it will overheat. I don;t know much about the workings of this stuff. It's also hard to sell shit here in Canada as its a fortune on shipping and everyone around here buys walmart subs. I give up. I appreciate your help but it's like after everything you do it's a slap in the face. I hate GM for the moment. I just don;t get it. lgzmax77 has a cobalt, 2.2L same car (pretty much) and same alt but he gets 14.4 steady. Such bullshit.

[Amart88]

There should be one hidden on the Positive side of the wiring to the battery. It usually is connected close to the positive on the battery or from the alternator. Idk why it would be around a ground wire because unless that is the only wire going to the battery there is no way for the PCM to accurately calculate system draw. Was your battery in the back from the factory? They probably hid this pretty well in that tiny engine bay. The 2006 impala LTZ that I saw done would only boost voltage when a heavy load was applied to the batteries. So basically he would bass really hard and then the voltage would boost back to 14.4 but fall again once the current had stayed down for a while. The only real way to fix this so it dosen't ruin your equipment is a MLA. The fan stuff will be costly, but if you cannot afford it now I would make sure that is among my top priorities to fix in the near future.

Yeah I have an MLA coming soon. But it does not override the PCM controlling the voltage, it just makes make the voltage higher when the PCM decides to charge. Also, even if I do find this ring, is there any way to trick it so it thinks theirs a draw? As of now I can maintain 13.5- 13.9 volts with the auto light trick. I don;t think it will ruin my equipment unless the voltage was dropping in the low 12's. i keep a close eye on my volt meter when i'm bumping, I turn it down whn it gets into the low 13's or high 12's. I try to charge my batts when I have a chance also. Hopefully witht he auto lights and the MLA it wil resolve this or make it tollerable. I'm starting to question GM's stupid reasoning for this shit.

It is designed to preserve the battery for a longer period of time. And the alternator is not going all-out all the time either. Honestly if I were you, I would forget that MLA module, it is going to be more of a pain in the long run. That will not totally fix the problem. I hate to say it but I think you should sell your Ohio Gen Alternator and talk to Mike Singer @ singer alternators. You should be able to find them easliy. Tell mike that you need a new alt for your car but have him make it set to 14.8 internally. This way the alternator controls its voltage not the PCM. You should get a good chunk of $ back from selling the ohio. This is what I did and this way I know I am going to have 14.8v all the time. I said this last because its usually not what people want to hear, especially with a lot of $$ invested. This way you have to modify none of the car and you get what you want, and a stupid battery light anyways.

Also is 13.8 ok to run for the time being? I can't see that harming my stuff? like i said i watch it. I wish there were shops around here with actual knowledge instead of just installing prefabs and JL's I don;t trust any of them to touch my shit.

[CW06Silvy]

with the MLA i think you will be fine. You have a nice battery bank and it seems like it should hold up well. If you run @ 14.4 you shouldn't ruin that alt. The only thing that generates heat in an alternator would be the current. However, if you keep your batteries charged well this should not pose you a problem. Install the MLA module and run it at 14.4, it should be fine. (all the old cars were set @ 14v all day and they ran forever). Gm does a lot of dumb shit, but with new technology it is only going to get worse. I know exactly what you mean about the shops, everyone where I live is like "aww sweet man, you got JL!", I remember when some assholes told me that my american bass 1100.1 was a worthless piece of shit, and my 6 ssa zcons were total junk in comparison to JL. I remember them making fun of it all and saying it was some "internet fanboy phenom-shit". I cannot wait to have this built so I can go there and rattle the shit out of their store... fucking morons... Neways enough with the rant, PM me if you run into issues.

[LoudPursuit]

Where in Canada are you located? I have the exact same car, as I said before. The light trick does work (most of the time) but there is NO way around the PCM without buying an older style alt (cavalier)! Call up Mechman and they'll have the exact same advice. I spoke with them for over 45 minutes and they explained it quite nicely.

[Amart88]

I live in Nova Scotia. I understand what you are saying but if this MLA works then I won't need to worry about it. Its being made for THIS car as he wanted my vin #. So we'll see. if that don't work then I will consider calling mechman even though i really don't feel like spending 600$. I feel like just getting rid of the whole damn car at this point if I can't fix this. too much effort, money and time for nothing really. Well see what happens. So what DID mechman tell you exactly? You mean get an HO alt for an older cavilier and it will fit this car?

[LoudPursuit]

I live in Nova Scotia. I understand what you are saying but if this MLA works then I won't need to worry about it. Its being made for THIS car as he wanted my vin #. So we'll see. if that don't work then I will consider calling mechman even though i really don't feel like spending 600$. I feel like just getting rid of the whole damn car at this point if I can't fix this. too much effort, money and time for nothing really. Well see what happens. So what DID mechman tell you exactly? You mean get an HO alt for an older cavilier and it will fit this car?

I truly recommend calling then up, not to buy, just for info. They really know their stuff.

They indicated exactly what I told you in the beginning, buy and older style alt (which will fit) and the problem will be fixed but you will always have the "low battery" indicator light on.

Call them to get info, seriously worth the long distance fees (I'm in Toronto, Ontario btw)