Pierce Barrett Posted June 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2012 Yeah I know it was way to pricey. I love car audio but I'm afraid of electricity so I'd rather pay my friend the 70 to do it. Quote 2006 Ford F150 4.6 3v (2) Digital Deisgns 3515's D4 Digital Designs M3B w/ Toolmaker Dual Inputs Mike Singer Built 340 Amp Alternator Arc Audio KS 300.4 *mids and highs to come soon* Alpine 148BT And tons of 0 AWG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted June 24, 2012 Report Share Posted June 24, 2012 (edited) Pics are easy. Upload pics to photobucket and the copy the IMG and paste here in a regular text box and voíla, magic. There's nothing to be afraid of with the Big 3. You have PLENTY of room in that huge ass truck under the hood to get to what you need and not get bitten by some voltage. It's really easy, since you don't remove your factory wires, you just use 1/0 gauge over your existing runs. Where is this sub box going for the Orion? Edited June 24, 2012 by CleanSierra Quote Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted June 24, 2012 Report Share Posted June 24, 2012 Yeah I know it was way to pricey. I love car audio but I'm afraid of electricity so I'd rather pay my friend the 70 to do it. $70 isn't terrible at all for the wiring AND the labor. Does that include the cost of materials, or $70 just straight to him on TOP of supplies cost? Quote Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierce Barrett Posted June 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2012 I just hate electricty if that makes sense. But the $70 includes the wiring and all I think which isn't bad. The box is in the back seat Quote 2006 Ford F150 4.6 3v (2) Digital Deisgns 3515's D4 Digital Designs M3B w/ Toolmaker Dual Inputs Mike Singer Built 340 Amp Alternator Arc Audio KS 300.4 *mids and highs to come soon* Alpine 148BT And tons of 0 AWG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted June 24, 2012 Report Share Posted June 24, 2012 I just hate electricty if that makes sense. But the $70 includes the wiring and all I think which isn't bad. The box is in the back seat Is the box secured? Back seat boxes are DANGEROUS! I'm hoping it's not just chillin in the back seat....if it is, change that. What size wiring have you run to your amp? Do you have your highs amped? What are the full details of your setup? Quote Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mario928 Posted June 24, 2012 Report Share Posted June 24, 2012 I would do electrical first but you will be fine if you have the big 3 and a good battery. Do you have a DD-1? Maybe you fried the amp because you were clipping hard. Try to find someone close to you with a DD-1 that can tune you amp. Quote Build Under Construction Head Unit = Kenwood DDX514 Amps = Kicker 750.1, Going to install Sundown 1500D v3 and Sundown 125.4 Battery = XS D3400 Wires = Kicker RCA's, 0 Gauge street wire and Stinger Mids and Highs = Stock Sub= Kicker L7 12" Alternator = 220 Mechman Sound Deadner= Fatmat and Stinger Road Kill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierce Barrett Posted June 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Oh no! The box is strapped down. I hate it when it moves plus I heard it's bad for the sub to be moving around. I have 2 gauge running from the battery to a splitter which goes down to four gauge wire which powers my amp for my door speakers and then a seperate four gauge wire from the splitter to power the amp for my Orion. I have a Infinity Reference series amp powering my door speakers. I want to upgrade to 0 gauge from the battery to my splitter then 2 gauge to the amp for my Orion. But unsure if it is worth spending the money. But my goal is to do this right. Plus I plan to buy a crossover soon after the new amp. Quote 2006 Ford F150 4.6 3v (2) Digital Deisgns 3515's D4 Digital Designs M3B w/ Toolmaker Dual Inputs Mike Singer Built 340 Amp Alternator Arc Audio KS 300.4 *mids and highs to come soon* Alpine 148BT And tons of 0 AWG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierce Barrett Posted June 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Stock 125 amp alternator too. I forgot to add that in. Quote 2006 Ford F150 4.6 3v (2) Digital Deisgns 3515's D4 Digital Designs M3B w/ Toolmaker Dual Inputs Mike Singer Built 340 Amp Alternator Arc Audio KS 300.4 *mids and highs to come soon* Alpine 148BT And tons of 0 AWG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyG2 Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Oh no! The box is strapped down. I hate it when it moves plus I heard it's bad for the sub to be moving around. I have 2 gauge running from the battery to a splitter which goes down to four gauge wire which powers my amp for my door speakers and then a seperate four gauge wire from the splitter to power the amp for my Orion. I have a Infinity Reference series amp powering my door speakers. I want to upgrade to 0 gauge from the battery to my splitter then 2 gauge to the amp for my Orion. But unsure if it is worth spending the money. But my goal is to do this right. Plus I plan to buy a crossover soon after the new amp. They more meant that it's bad for your HEAD if you crash to not have a sub strapped down! I'm partial to Sundown, so Sundown gets my vote! Can't go wrong with them! Quote *New vehicle and system coming soon.* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diatribe Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 I'm surprised no one has mentioned the AQ2200D yet. For the price it may be the best amp in this power range. http://www.audioque.com/AQ2200D-Amplifier_p_31.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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