Dead car?!? what could it be?

[AgentTyler]

What I mean by power hog is that it just dropped voltage like crazy in my car. All my lights would dim, it was crazy. I've now put in 4-5 different amps since then without changing how they're hooked up and I haven't had a problem since. And like 8ight said, they aren't that efficient.

[bassface]

Do you still have the rear battery hooked up while all this is going on? Im just wondering if maybe you got both batterys so low that the alternator just cant charge them back up. I would put the batterys on a charger overnight. Then when you are sure both batterys are fully charged hook them back up and meter your alternator with a voltmeter to see if it is charging before you take it out.

[AgentTyler]

I don't think he has a second battery installed. And if you're talking about me, I don't have a second battery installed either. Still waiting for it to come.

[SnowDrifter]

If you blow the stock alt on 1000 watts, there has to be/you are doing something else wrong IMHO

I am running 3500 watts on the stock alternator/battery right now... At .5 ohm and I don't have any issues

BUT I also keep close tabs on my voltage and don't let it drop below 13v which depending on the song can be only 1/3 the way up or full bore.

Edit: And I have an 80a alternator too

[bassface]

What I mean by power hog is that it just dropped voltage like crazy in my car. All my lights would dim, it was crazy. I've now put in 4-5 different amps since then without changing how they're hooked up and I haven't had a problem since. And like 8ight said, they aren't that efficient.

You are right he doesnt have a second battery, he may also have a dead cell in his battery. I would still meter the alt before removing it, because removing that alt looks like a pain in the ass. Plus its so easy to just put a meter on it. If your alternator is charging its probably your battery, if it isnt charging its the alt.

[8ight]

If you blow the stock alt on 1000 watts, there has to be/you are doing something else wrong IMHO

I am running 3500 watts on the stock alternator/battery right now... At .5 ohm and I don't have any issues

BUT I also keep close tabs on my voltage and don't let it drop below 13v which depending on the song can be only 1/3 the way up or full bore.

Edit: And I have an 80a alternator too

Unless you have the same car with the same alternator you can't say this shouldn't have hurt him or that he had done something wrong. Also note, he was running at max power for a demo. I also assume you have done the big 3, at least. Not to mention, your alternator get a lot hotter when you're not in motion unless you have some tinware directing air in its direction.

[Tim Lam]

What I mean by power hog is that it just dropped voltage like crazy in my car. All my lights would dim, it was crazy. I've now put in 4-5 different amps since then without changing how they're hooked up and I haven't had a problem since. And like 8ight said, they aren't that efficient.

ahh i see, so maybe after this little thorn is removed, i should think about getting another amp?(maybe one that's more efficient? any suggestions?)

If you blow the stock alt on 1000 watts, there has to be/you are doing something else wrong IMHO

I am running 3500 watts on the stock alternator/battery right now... At .5 ohm and I don't have any issues

BUT I also keep close tabs on my voltage and don't let it drop below 13v which depending on the song can be only 1/3 the way up or full bore.

Edit: And I have an 80a alternator too

ah well i would consider you blessed for having your system keep up with that. no offense though but if it's all stock, i doubt you'll ever see that 3.5k rms.

and yes, during my demo i didnt have a volt meter to keep an eye one, i simply though keeping the rpm's at 2000 would suffice. so im definitely thinking about investing in one.

[Tim Lam]

What I mean by power hog is that it just dropped voltage like crazy in my car. All my lights would dim, it was crazy. I've now put in 4-5 different amps since then without changing how they're hooked up and I haven't had a problem since. And like 8ight said, they aren't that efficient.

You are right he doesnt have a second battery, he may also have a dead cell in his battery. I would still meter the alt before removing it, because removing that alt looks like a pain in the ass. Plus its so easy to just put a meter on it. If your alternator is charging its probably your battery, if it isnt charging its the alt.

also an update, i took out my battery and got it tested.

the idiot at the advanced didnt know how to test it and put in the wrong CCA,

luckily my dad remember you have to put the correct # in, and it came up as the battery was 100% working.

so i guess i ruled out the battery(doesnt really matter because im getting a new Kinetik anyways)

so that would either leave a short, alternator or blown fuses.

and i checked the fuse box, everything looks fine.

i connected the 0AWG from the alternator to the battery and tried.

so doing those two, ive already ruled out everything but the alternator itself.

unless anyone has more possibilities for me to test?

would be appreciated.

[8ight]

Check the fuse relay box under the hood? I still think it's the alternator, blackened wires = smoked wires, usually from too much current. That 80a alt just couldn't take it, and once voltage drops the load on the alt gets nasty.

1000w total load at 14.4v = ~70 amps.

1000w total load at 11v = ~91 amps.

1000w total load at 9v = ~111 amps, serious damage can occur to your amp and charging system at this voltage.

These calculations also assume your car draws nothing (and it doesn't pulls around 40-60a at night with the A/C on), that your amp is %100 efficient (again, none are), and that your amp still pushes its all when the voltage drops.

EDIT: You can't tell if a fuse is really blown until you pull it and take a good hard look at the filament in the center, pull 'em all if you want. Shouldn't be an issue though, since with most amp installs you bypass everything and pull power right off of your charging system.

[Tim Lam]

Check the fuse relay box under the hood? I still think it's the alternator, blackened wires = smoked wires, usually from too much current. That 80a alt just couldn't take it, and once voltage drops the load on the alt gets nasty.

1000w total load at 14.4v = ~70 amps.

1000w total load at 11v = ~91 amps.

1000w total load at 9v = ~111 amps, serious damage can occur to your amp and charging system at this voltage.

These calculations also assume your car draws nothing (and it doesn't pulls around 40-60a at night with the A/C on), that your amp is %100 efficient (again, none are), and that your amp still pushes its all when the voltage drops.

EDIT: You can't tell if a fuse is really blown until you pull it and take a good hard look at the filament in the center, pull 'em all if you want. Shouldn't be an issue though, since with most amp installs you bypass everything and pull power right off of your charging system.

well at the time i did have everything else electrical off, but it obviously wasnt any help.

i guess i will definitely have to look into a bigger alt for future set ups.

well im also having trouble with the big 3. nothing that i can't solve though. just had to order some 4awg to 8awg reducer, because the stock wiring was bigger than i thought.

yeah i might take a look at some of the fuses. but i think i found 2 alternator from the scrap yards for only $35, so ill take a look at them tomorrow.