audio que hdc312 break in

[AMI CUSTOMS]

If a spider is going to rip, then it will rip regardless of how you play it before it rips. If a spider rips, or you tear a surround, or you bust a triple joint, or toast a tinsel lead, it is because YOU were doing something YOU weren't supposed to. OR something the sub wasn't designed to do.

Subs are stupid. they do what you want them to. If you have them do something stupid, then bad results may follow.

I am gonna have to disagree, in most cases you would be right but being the fact I have reconed about 2 dozen of the hdc3 two different versions in my own truck last season, you have to break the v3 version in or you will rip the triple joint. The new v4 hdc3 has a larger diameter spider so the break in process is greatly accelerated.

Now having said that, I using free air mine on a 250w Memphis amp with test tones for a few hours and works like a champ. Last season if I put a fresh recone in my wall and tried to play music I would destroy them if I didn't have them loosened up. And one set of woofers I played at lower volume for 3 weeks before going full tilt with them or burping at lower ohm load. Didn't have any problems with them. I have dozens of other examples where we broke some in had good results and one where we didnt and had failures.

[kingsuv]

I really don't see how a triple joint is any better after a break in then fresh out of the box. It's not like the glue has to dry over the next 2 weeks. Nor does the spider have some built in memory you have to train to retain its shape. Breaking the triple joint is more to do with the box it's in, not how it was built.

Sub companies want you to break in a sub for one reason. Buffer from a customer doing something stupid out of the box. Plain and simple. When people buy a new sub, chances are they have never dealt with that product before. So the likeliness you actually know its limitations out of the box is slim to none. If a sub manufacture asks you to break in a sub, it's because they want you to learn the limits of the product over the course of time, not to drop it in a box and throw the hammer down on it.

People need to learn their products in the system as a whole and what the limits are, not believe that the product will somehow magically get stronger if you be nice with it at the start. It's a sub, you don't need to take it out to dinner and a movie first. take it no tell motel and give it a good pounding. Just don't expect to stick it in the pole piece if it wasn't designed to take it

[AMI CUSTOMS]

I really don't see how a triple joint is any better after a break in then fresh out of the box. It's not like the glue has to dry over the next 2 weeks. Nor does the spider have some built in memory you have to train to retain its shape. Breaking the triple joint is more to do with the box it's in, not how it was built.

Sub companies want you to break in a sub for one reason. Buffer from a customer doing something stupid out of the box. Plain and simple. When people buy a new sub, chances are they have never dealt with that product before. So the likeliness you actually know its limitations out of the box is slim to none. If a sub manufacture asks you to break in a sub, it's because they want you to learn the limits of the product over the course of time, not to drop it in a box and throw the hammer down on it.

People need to learn their products in the system as a whole and what the limits are, not believe that the product will somehow magically get stronger if you be nice with it at the start. It's a sub, you don't need to take it out to dinner and a movie first. take it no tell motel and give it a good pounding. Just don't expect to stick it in the pole piece if it wasn't designed to take it

The suspension is super stiff, the triple joint it the weak point so it breaks there if to much excursion is going on, now if it is looser, the suspension there is more give at the triple joint.

Edited June 28, 2012 by AMI CUSTOMS

[Robert8252]

I just want to add that I'm still waiting to see a broken in AQ sub. Brother had a pair of SDCs and after a year they still were stiff as a board.

[kingsuv]

I really don't see how a triple joint is any better after a break in then fresh out of the box. It's not like the glue has to dry over the next 2 weeks. Nor does the spider have some built in memory you have to train to retain its shape. Breaking the triple joint is more to do with the box it's in, not how it was built.

Sub companies want you to break in a sub for one reason. Buffer from a customer doing something stupid out of the box. Plain and simple. When people buy a new sub, chances are they have never dealt with that product before. So the likeliness you actually know its limitations out of the box is slim to none. If a sub manufacture asks you to break in a sub, it's because they want you to learn the limits of the product over the course of time, not to drop it in a box and throw the hammer down on it.

People need to learn their products in the system as a whole and what the limits are, not believe that the product will somehow magically get stronger if you be nice with it at the start. It's a sub, you don't need to take it out to dinner and a movie first. take it no tell motel and give it a good pounding. Just don't expect to stick it in the pole piece if it wasn't designed to take it

The suspension is super stiff, the triple joint it the weak point so it breaks there if to much excursion is going on, now if it is looser, the suspension there is more give at the triple joint.

Ok, so whats the context?

Is it a bad design of product, or bad box design? One of these 2 can be controlled by the purchaser. Excursion is easily changed in the box design.

I do understand in YOUR application, having a loose sub helped its longevity. HOWEVER, it's not always the case.

Case n point: DC98HOE system was at its loudest just as the subs became loose. Which was about a day before they would blow. Out of the box play hard nor breaking them in @20z tone did anything to change this. The sooner he got to the loose part, the sooner he was ordering recones. Does this mean the sub was to blame? Nope, it has and will always have to do with box design.

People, not product dictate the ends results in equipment

Edited June 28, 2012 by kingsuv

[AMI CUSTOMS]

IMO it is a design error that has been with AQ since the beginning, and is still a problem. But with adjustments to enclosure you can help save the woofer longer like you mentioned. All mine that had triple joint failures the glue held it was the paper on the former ripped at the joint causing a complete failure at that point.

[8ight]

So you shouldn't break in subs unless they are Audioque subs?

EDIT:

I really don't see how a triple joint is any better after a break in then fresh out of the box. It's not like the glue has to dry over the next 2 weeks. Nor does the spider have some built in memory you have to train to retain its shape. Breaking the triple joint is more to do with the box it's in, not how it was built.

Sub companies want you to break in a sub for one reason. Buffer from a customer doing something stupid out of the box. Plain and simple. When people buy a new sub, chances are they have never dealt with that product before. So the likeliness you actually know its limitations out of the box is slim to none. If a sub manufacture asks you to break in a sub, it's because they want you to learn the limits of the product over the course of time, not to drop it in a box and throw the hammer down on it.

People need to learn their products in the system as a whole and what the limits are, not believe that the product will somehow magically get stronger if you be nice with it at the start. It's a sub, you don't need to take it out to dinner and a movie first. take it no tell motel and give it a good pounding. Just don't expect to stick it in the pole piece if it wasn't designed to take it

I have to disagree with you here. I think sub companies ask you to break them in so they have another cop out if you get a defective product: "You didn't break it in, buy a recone kit from us and break it in this time." But then again, I'm a cynical bastard.

Edited June 29, 2012 by 8ight

[Dangrebel]

I will add too ami customs and say that, if you've never messed with aq or dd then chill. They are way different the normal subs. I've ran 5k daily on my pair for months now and they are still retarded stiff.

[DubNDodge]

No mean to thread jack but how can there be a bad box design? I never realized that there were different box designs. I figured that there were different volumes and tunings and that was it. Just snooping around the forums for the best bang for a 1200 rms @2ohm with 4-4.5ish cubes. Dunno which brand to go with or size subs. (2x12 or 1x15) Was planning on using RE's box calc. Is that this "bad design" that Kingsuv talks about?

[AMI CUSTOMS]

No mean to thread jack but how can there be a bad box design? I never realized that there were different box designs. I figured that there were different volumes and tunings and that was it. Just snooping around the forums for the best bang for a 1200 rms @2ohm with 4-4.5ish cubes. Dunno which brand to go with or size subs. (2x12 or 1x15) Was planning on using RE's box calc. Is that this "bad design" that Kingsuv talks about?

That is what he is referring to exactly, wrong tuning and wrong volume, wrong port area, making for a bad design.