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Hifonics Brutus BRZ1200.1D and Gladiator GLX1000.1D


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GO FOR THE 1700.1D

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2005 Subaru Impreza

My build log.

Head unit- Kenwood Excelon KDC-X695

Front doors- Rockford Fosgate 6.5" Prime components

Rear doors- Rockford Fosgate 4" Punch coaxials

Sub amp- Audiopipe AP18001d

Subs- Two American Bass TNT 10"s

Box- 2.6 cubes @ 34hz, 36in of port

Big 3 & run of Raptor 1/0 to rear powercell

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Can it be heard 2 blocks away, thats how i rate systems.

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My main concern is how draining this will be on my battery and electrical system. Some have said the BRZ is a very power-hungry amp.

im running my 1700 with a 150A fuse at 2 ohms, along with my MRP-F300, drawing a total of 200A.

I have a HC1400 under my hood, stock 120A alt, no big 3 (yet) and i drop to 12.9 while idling at full tilt on a 40Hz tone.

woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked

You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port...

YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money.

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Yes, if youre going to be running 1200w or more its a good idea to upgrade your battery. My 1400 is under my hood. If/when i go to one ohm/more power, im going to be adding batteries in the trunk as well.

woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked

You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port...

YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money.

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Just one extra battery would be good...but might not be necessary. I had a small battery just the little kinetik...It kept my voltage about .1-.2v higher than without but I never dipped below 13's while playing full tilt.

I like how the first post throws up a audioque amp right after it says the OP is on a BUDGET and looking at BRZ and Gladiator. SO common sense would dictate a 150-200$ budget.

I had a BRZ....awesome bang for the buck....not the best amp ever but almost unbeatable when it comes to dollar/watt ratio.

I would check out the APSM 1500 too. If I remember right someone did a clamp test and it put out slightly under rated but in the power range you are looking at. Their footprint is nice and not big and a great price too.

http://www.audiopipe.com/products/amplifiers/apsm/apsm-1500.html

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2005 GMC Canyon

CB1000r - Currently where any future funds are going. (exhasut,bazzaz, ohlins shock, screen, etc.)

crf250r - Used to be race bike..now I just trail ride..practice at the track on it.

CH80 - Daily beater (when nice weather)best 150$ ever spent. 100+mpg

Sold to:

Skullz - pstone11 - Leo1103 - Volvo 63' - pavelpardo - imnew59585

Shower farts still piss me off.

I think theyre pretty neat. When the water runs down your crack as you let one out... its like shitting in a crockpot.
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Just speaking from personal experience, The Brz is great if you get the 2400 and keep the gains low but if you want full power out of it it is not going to sound clear. It has alot of distortion at full power. Also one of my brothers has an audioque and he get full power out of it and it sounds really good which is the reason why i recommended it.

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Just speaking from personal experience, The Brz is great if you get the 2400 and keep the gains low but if you want full power out of it it is not going to sound clear. It has alot of distortion at full power. Also one of my brothers has an audioque and he get full power out of it and it sounds really good which is the reason why i recommended it.

thanks, ill definitely keep that in mind when I'm upgrading to something that size. I know why you said AQ, they make great product, but for the budget, HiFon was right up his alley.

woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked

You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port...

YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money.

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I just bought this battery off a friend for $60. He sold his system and has no use for the battery now. http://www.amazon.com/Optima-Batteries-8042-218-YellowTop-Purpose/dp/B00075OSDS Is this a decent battery? Would I need to replace my stock battery with this one, or use them both. I think using them both would be hard on the alternator, from what I've read.

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Just speaking from personal experience, The Brz is great if you get the 2400 and keep the gains low but if you want full power out of it it is not going to sound clear. It has alot of distortion at full power. Also one of my brothers has an audioque and he get full power out of it and it sounds really good which is the reason why i recommended it.

Ive had both and even talked one of my friends in to buying a hifonics 2400 brz for his two 12 jl w7. In my experience what you are saying is not true at all.

His setup with me tuning his amp is to this day the best sounding setup ive ever heard. Box and subs play a much greater role in the sound you are getting unless the amp is a pos like a boss is. (even some old boss were actually made well but whatever).

The key is tuning your amp wether it is the ap or the hifonics both are relatively the same as shown by the budget price. Just get an amp that overpowers your subs ratings and then set the amp well. The audiopipe and hifonics both will do the job. Ive had the audioque and tuned right was still not galaxies better like people swear they are.

1st Setup(SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt

Audiocontrol Epicenter2 Audioque SDC2.5 15 subs8.7 cubes at 37hz build DONEAudioque 1200d (Audioque 1200d Sold, similar performance to my ap1500)Diamond Audio Hex 6.5 Mids n TweetsCerwin Vega Exl 400 4 channel Bridged(also have MTX 4004 not being used)1 Run of power Knu Fleks 4 Gauge2 Cheap stock Battery setup2nd Setup (SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt

Audiocontrol Epicenter2 15 Kicker cvx (maybe two SA 15 in future)7 cubes net tuned at 34hzAlphasonik Old school 1600rms (ap 1500d sold GREAT Budget amp)JBL 6.5 Power Series Components, Infinity Kappa 6.5 3 ways, and 2 Kicker KS Tweets (LOUD)Cerwin vega exl4001 run knu Fleks OFC 0 gaugeBig 3 done1 Odyssey 1500, 1 optima yellow top d31

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Just speaking from personal experience, The Brz is great if you get the 2400 and keep the gains low but if you want full power out of it it is not going to sound clear. It has alot of distortion at full power. Also one of my brothers has an audioque and he get full power out of it and it sounds really good which is the reason why i recommended it.

Ive had both and even talked one of my friends in to buying a hifonics 2400 brz for his two 12 jl w7. In my experience what you are saying is not true at all.

His setup with me tuning his amp is to this day the best sounding setup ive ever heard. Box and subs play a much greater role in the sound you are getting unless the amp is a pos like a boss is. (even some old boss were actually made well but whatever).

The key is tuning your amp wether it is the ap or the hifonics both are relatively the same as shown by the budget price. Just get an amp that overpowers your subs ratings and then set the amp well. The audiopipe and hifonics both will do the job. Ive had the audioque and tuned right was still not galaxies better like people swear they are.

Following up on this, I understand its all in the tuning but my point is that you can pay 350 for a 2400W amp but you definitely wont get 2400W of clean sounding bass out of it, if you tune it right then yes but you may get half the power which at the end if the day if you pay 350 for it you might as well would've payed the same for a better quality amp that pushes 1200W. I used my ear-o-meter but Im not the only one that feels this way.

some references are

I owned a hifonics 1200 does rated until I put it to the DD-1. Then the gain could only go up I'd say about 1/3 then it distorted and no bass boost. Before it was like 1/2 way up and near max bass boost, plus its not the most efficient amp. The skar 1500 I have now destroys the hifonics amp.

and some testing I found on a different site

http://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/car-audio/542894.html

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