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Im new to this type of stuff and wonder exactly or aprox how much is needed for a trunk/ or full car if i decide on this later ,

currently will have a one 15' kicker l5 , this box will be interesting to fit in the trunk of the vehicle im placing it so i cant come out if needed

2009 Mitsubishi lancer sedan car if that helps

Edited by splizaat
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It really depends on your goals. Because killing rattles is different from improving sound quality and getting better SPL is different from both.

Typically speaking 40 sq. ft. of sound deadener is about right for most cars and trucks to kill rattles and improve the overall sound of everything. Toss in some OverKill to further kill and prevent rattles and you'd be golden.

If you want a better estimate, provide us with your goals/needs. :)

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I am new to sound deadener so its a new game to me , so no idea what is too much for specific needs bigger / smaller cars haha ,

I am going bigger this time and rattles / better sound would be a great idea as i was sujested to do this ,

The subwoofer box is going to be abit complex with the space and mesurements of the trunk , 15'' kicker not much taller trunk , also not torching my backglass , removable and not using my full trunk it's going to be a challenge as the width of the trunk opening is not too large nor you can shove it true the backseat due to the beam :P

Not exactly sure if i should just start off on the trunk / lid for now ,

whole interior ? doors floor roof? what diffence for the cabine would i gain ? since the subs in the trunk i would asume less rattles in the car or am i wrong?

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With a trunk setup planned like that, I would start with just doing a large portion of the trunk and trunk lid. If you want to do it in stages, I'd pick up 20 sq. ft. of material and just focus on the trunk.

Apply 3 sq. ft. on each rear quarter panel.

8 sq. ft. on the floor of the trunk.

2-3 sq. ft. on the lid (remove the lid liner and apply it between the braces, not on them).

And a bit on the rear deck as I am sure that will need some help.

Reducing rattles can actually be done by just using some closed cell foam between the sheet metal and the plastic trim. This isolates the two from one another, thus eliminating the likelihood of them smacking against each other and producing rattles and squeaks.

Of course applying some sound deadener prior to the closed cell foam will be even more beneficial as it will help reduce the panel resonance and improve the overall sound quality.

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With a trunk setup planned like that, I would start with just doing a large portion of the trunk and trunk lid. If you want to do it in stages, I'd pick up 20 sq. ft. of material and just focus on the trunk.

Apply 3 sq. ft. on each rear quarter panel.

8 sq. ft. on the floor of the trunk.

2-3 sq. ft. on the lid (remove the lid liner and apply it between the braces, not on them).

And a bit on the rear deck as I am sure that will need some help.

Reducing rattles can actually be done by just using some closed cell foam between the sheet metal and the plastic trim. This isolates the two from one another, thus eliminating the likelihood of them smacking against each other and producing rattles and squeaks.

Of course applying some sound deadener prior to the closed cell foam will be even more beneficial as it will help reduce the panel resonance and improve the overall sound quality.

another question Jon I have a dodge Magnum and im putting 2 mayhem 18 powered by 2 aq3500.1 I want better spl and some but not all the rattle. Point me in the right direction thanx
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mymanjojo,

I would suggest getting as much of the roof treated as you possibly can. By creating somewhat of a barrier with the sound deadener this will help the roof withstand the air pressure caused by your Mayhems. Short of welding in reinforcements, this is a good alternative and easy enough to do for most people.

I would also tackle the lift gate and all four doors with at least 25% coverage with sound deadener.

Once that is complete, get some closed cell foam, such as our OverKill or other similar foam, and get it installed behind the the plastic trim pieces to further reduce rattles. This can be done at a later date if you want to do it in stages.

splizaat,

Just kick your buddy in the pants... if he's good at carpentry, just take your car over to him and spend the day measuring and mocking something up. It's been a while since I've built a box but I'm fairly certain within an hour you can have something halfway put together and start tweaking the design.

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one of these "how much Sound dampener do i need" threads needs to get stickied i swear there have been like 10 of them in the past two weeks. although props to you jon for answering every single one.

HU: Pioneer AVH x5800BHS SP Amp: AQ 120.4 Front SP: Hertz Hsk 165 Rear SP: DD cxs 6.5 SW Amp: Crescendo BC2000d SW 2 DC level 3 12" Electrical: Stock alt for now XS D2400 XS D3400 Knukonceptz Kolossus Second skin damplifier

On 8/8/2012 at 4:50 PM, Brandon15zzz said:

I heard he actually graduated college with a 4.0 gpa. Seems pretty gangster.

On 8/29/2012 at 12:25 AM, ILoveBass21 said:

he could blow a sub powering it with a potato.

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No problem.

One of these days I should post my list of vehicles and their averages. It's a long list and would take a while to actually compile.

But since each vehicle is different and a lot of it depends on what the goals are, these threads will continue to be made for a while. :)

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