jabo6692 Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Hey everyone! So I've got 2 kicker L7 15's that I'm running on a kicker zx2500.1 @ 2 ohms in my small suv. Basically I need advice for the new box I'm building based on my habits and the power I'm putting to them -This set up is for my daily driver (1998 4runner) and I listen to a lot of rap -I want them to pound and hit lows well when I turn em up -My maximum space in my trunk is: W:38in. x H:32in. x D:21in. so up to 12.56 cubic feet of gross volume -The box and port will be facing up. I'm considering doing the port back and on the bottom so I wont have to bend it -I'm planning on putting them together in a single chamber I know kicker recommends up to 6 cu. ft. of net volume per sub for these subs for "SPL/DeepBass" however I'm wondering with the power I'm putting to them if I should go smaller like around 4 or 5 cubic feet. Overall my questions are: -How many cubic feet should I make my box? -What frequency should I tune my box to? -Any other hints based on my needs? Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Can't do the maths a I'm mobile But 180sq" of port slot 145 aero @35-37hz unless your after an solid sq set up the 28-30hz And as much space as you can give them up to 14net(including sub displacment) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 How close to the ceiling would you be with a 32H box? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabo6692 Posted August 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 How close to the ceiling would you be with a 32H box? If i used my maximum depth of 21in. (which is the hight of my rear seats), I would have exactly 18 inches of space from the upward faced port to the ceiling of the car. Thats plenty of space right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 I'm not sure if I'm getting you The depth should be from the seat to the rear wall/door The height is ground to roof Your seat is on a slant right If you can make or buy a plumb bob and drop it from the top of seat down and mesure from there to back doors, and is you max depth, Idd recomemend sub up port back, but to get the most out of them you may need a wall But double check all the meserment again if you can, you'll need Depth from Top of seat to rear door Depth from Base of seat to rear door Width between wheel arches(and height) Depth and location of arches(if you have) Width above arches Heigh from floor to roof,lowest point Height from floor to top of seat Height from floor to top of head rest Height to window line Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 (edited) . Edited August 4, 2012 by john253a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purplehaze Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 (edited) Better give them 5 - 6 cubes each, and tune down to 32hz, IMO. At least that's what worked best for me with the Solo's. Seems like they like space! If you get bored, check out Stage 2, or my UBL. I had some L5's slammin' pretty good, and killing the lows! Edited August 3, 2012 by Purplehaze Quote Kickin' Cruiser Seller Feedback Stage 3 Dash, Door Panels,4th Order wall 4 - 15'son a DC 5.0K 2 DC 5.0K'sSolo X 15 (v.2) Sub Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 i had 1 in 7net on 1k and hit pretty hard i think what he need to realize is the closest this to this in a round sub is an 18" as this has the same cone area as a 17, so it will require just as much space Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabo6692 Posted August 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 I'm not sure if I'm getting you The depth should be from the seat to the rear wall/door The height is ground to roof Your seat is on a slant right If you can make or buy a plumb bob and drop it from the top of seat down and mesure from there to back doors, and is you max depth, Idd recomemend sub up port back, but to get the most out of them you may need a wall But double check all the meserment again if you can, you'll need Depth from Top of seat to rear door Depth from Base of seat to rear door Width between wheel arches(and height) Depth and location of arches(if you have) Width above arches Heigh from floor to roof,lowest point Height from floor to top of seat Height from floor to top of head rest Height to window line Ok john I've done all those measurements, and here they are: Depth from Top of seat to rear door: - 35in. Depth from Base of seat to rear door: - 45in. Width between wheel arches: - 38in. Depth and location of arches: arches are very strangely shaped and not symmetrical.. lets just say both of their hights are 10 in. and the left is 6.5in. wide, right is 8in. Width above arches: - 52.5in. Heigh from floor to roof (lowest point): - 36in. Height from floor to top of seat: - 21.5in. Height from floor to top of head rest: - 29in. Height to window line: - 19in. And I think I'm going to go with about an 11 net cu. ft. box tuned to 32 hrtz I'm not sure about a wall, i like being able to see out the back window, however if i did that i could fit a bigger box and few 10in. subs in sealed boxes built into the wall for mids? What do ya'll think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 That makes more sence, I'll redraw something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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