Mac N Cheese Posted August 6, 2012 Report Share Posted August 6, 2012 IF you are really that broke send me a payment for a flat rate box and I will stuff as much 1/0 as I can fit into it. Probably be close to 8-10ft. Let me know I am getting rid of everything, and I guess including wire if someone wants it. Quote 2005 VW GTI 1.8T (4) Fi BTL N2 15s/ 4th order bandpass (2) Crescendo BC5500s Crescendo c1000.4 (4) Selenium 6w4p (Q logic Kicks) Crescendo FT1 tweeters 3 runs of 4/0 Too much 1/0 DC power Engineering 320 XP ~235A at idle 3 XS D3100s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
412 CVX Posted August 6, 2012 Report Share Posted August 6, 2012 Playing with fire? lol i've had a 300 amp fuse under my hood for the longest time, running a mb quart 1k with no problems for over a month now. too lazy to change it. Quote Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs. My temp system build log More box buildssome cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches! I'm with captain stupid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95legwagon Posted August 6, 2012 Report Share Posted August 6, 2012 I'm only suggesting you run a smaller fuse so your car doesn't go up in flames as you try to give it all its got. for some reason i dont like any of your advice for this guy...... you have good intentions i believe ...... but i think you may be slightly uneducated about electrical.... not tryin to be a dick or bash you at all cuz i have alot to learn also..... but im pretty sure he would be fine on a small run of 4 gauge as long as his ground wire is short too.... and yes i would fuse after the dist. block also with a 100 amp fuse..... you will normally smell your wire getting hot before it goes up in flames.... ( i did it a LOOOONG time ago b4 i knew anything) unless its in a trunk. definitly keep your eye on voltage cuz voltage drop will be your worst enemy i would think...... just my 2 cents SlamminSL1....again not tryin to stab at you just sayin what i think from your posts.... where you located in ct? im in west hartford Quote i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks. / LOL My Low Budget Build: Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25 4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50 4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece 6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more 2 aspm 1300 strapped Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20 quantum tweets in door-for now -$10 boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free big 3 1/0 and 4awg throughout. roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Lam Posted August 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2012 (edited) yeah, i do have some knowledge of electrical myself. and tbh i knew that since the 4awg run was so short it wouldnt have mattered. because legnth of wire has to my calculated in with the power your pushing to determine the size. so with that said i just wanted to make sure. thus from this thread i'm pretty much going to use a run of 4awg, fused after the distribution block ESPECIALLY since i have found out the bc2k has NO built in fuses, which is a kinda dumbfuck decision IMO. but it doesnt matter since fusing doesn't hurt. (unless its between your alternator and battery and you have no other runs of power between them, then ur dead on the side of the road LOL) and since its a 0awg into a 350watts max pioneer 2 channel and a 1.1k rms bc2k, i know the 0awg would be fine. because it's not like im distributing a single 0awg into 4 different 0awg runs. it's kind of what a distribution block is for. but after all this, ill just run the 4awg, and fuse it. future plans, run 2 0awg from the front to back battery(fused on both ends) power wire from back battery to amps(fused in between) and it'll all be gucci. thanks for all the input guys. Edited August 6, 2012 by Tim Lam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlamminSL1 Posted August 7, 2012 Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 I'm only suggesting you run a smaller fuse so your car doesn't go up in flames as you try to give it all its got. for some reason i dont like any of your advice for this guy...... you have good intentions i believe ...... but i think you may be slightly uneducated about electrical.... not tryin to be a dick or bash you at all cuz i have alot to learn also..... but im pretty sure he would be fine on a small run of 4 gauge as long as his ground wire is short too.... and yes i would fuse after the dist. block also with a 100 amp fuse..... you will normally smell your wire getting hot before it goes up in flames.... ( i did it a LOOOONG time ago b4 i knew anything) unless its in a trunk. definitly keep your eye on voltage cuz voltage drop will be your worst enemy i would think...... just my 2 cents SlamminSL1....again not tryin to stab at you just sayin what i think from your posts.... where you located in ct? im in west hartford It's not his fusing that I'd be concerned about, it's the distroblock. More than a few instances I've seen people come into the shop with melted blocks and blown amps because their bass shakes the studs loose. They didn't have the power OP has so can you imagine what some real subs in a good box will do? Once he throws the fuses in he'll be good to go as far as safety is concerned but why not just skip all that hassle and throw in an extra battery and reap the benefits of that?Shit it'll even save you the hassle of ripping it all apart when you do eventually get the extra battery that you want. Quote Nothing but old school! 01 Saturn SL1 Sony CDX GT500 H/U Polk DB651 in front doors Profile AMP121 on Polks US Amps USA400 on sub One 12" Cadence Ultra 6ohm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07denali Posted August 7, 2012 Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 I have two short runs of RF 0 gauge red that's maybe 12-15" in length if you want it. I paid $4/ft but its just laying around bc my installer did my install wrong. I went back in and redid it and ended up with those short runs I don't use. Quote Vehicle: 2007 GMC Denali Headunit: Pioneer AVH-8400BH Sub Amp: Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp Sub: Ascendant Audio Havoc 12" Electrical: Big 3, Dual Batteries, Stock 160-amp alternator Wiring: RF 0 gauge Box: Custom built 1.89^3 net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
412 CVX Posted August 7, 2012 Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 Lol really dude? it's like 1200 watts. I've been running basically unfused for a year no problems. a lot of people do it. hell, yuyang jin ran 14k unfused. 4 awg can handle 1200 watts just fine, especially with such a short run. Quote Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs. My temp system build log More box buildssome cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches! I'm with captain stupid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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